Eponges

The crescendo of chirping birds is growing louder as the days move along into spring. I also believe that my body clock is gearing up for the time change, as every morning my semi-awake brain cells are urging me to wake up at an earlier hour. To top it all off, I'm experiencing a chocolate fix (give me caramel-filled Cadbury eggs) and it's making me... cuckoo. Possibly an adjective that my husband's colleagues might have labeled me had I sent him off to work with these.

Objects appear much larger at close range.

Eponge is french for sponge; spugna in italian. I came across a recipe in one of my cookbooks and did some kitchen experiments yesterday. The list of ingredients/instructions were vaguely familiar as I skimmed down the page, and wouldn't you know, éponges are almost like those exquisite french macarons! The only major difference is that it's not necessary to let them sit out at room temperature to develop a 'skin'. Finely chopped almonds are spooned over the tops, giving them the appearance of sea sponges. I'm affectionately dubbing them as the bourgeois cousins of Pierre Hermé's macarons but my husband offered his own opinions last nite.

* * *

So what are these called?
Sponges.
Buonissimo!
Really? You like? Too bad there aren't any extras for you to bring to the office. Anyway, your colleagues would think me crazy for sending you to work with sponge cookies.
No they wouldn't, they like everything.
Why...? You DIDN'T tell them that they are my guinea pigs did you??!
Yes, I did.
You WHAT?!! You DIDN'T!!!!!
I told them that they are all guinea pigs. And there's one guy that doesn't like chocolate anything... he said to me, "Tell your wife to make something else besides chocolate. I can't eat chocolate."

No chocolate eh? Good thing I also baked some coconut macaroons. Let's see what the boys have to say about those.

Antica Trattoria del Gallo

If there should be any occasion where we can't decide on which Slow Food restaurant to go to, we target in on those places that have atleast one or all 3 of these symbols---a snail, a round of cheese, or a wine bottle. These 3 icons indicate those places held in the highest regard according to the folks at Slow Food. The snail signifies a locale that is extra special for the reception, the cooking, or the ambience. The cheese represents a worthy selection in terms of offering locally-produced items, assortment, and various types. And the bottle denotes a winelist that is both ample and qualified.

On top of that, I don't think you could ever go wrong with a restaurant that's named after a rooster either (we've never nixed a place yet), and Antica Trattoria del Gallo also carries the cheese and wine symbols. Lastly, it's always a big plus when I see elderly diners, because if I were to use my in-laws as an example, these people expect to eat well, and are not easily 'wowed' by artistic creations of fantasy from a trendy chef.

The trattoria gained it's popularity with local clientele due to a few select dishes, that for 30€, are all included in a Menu della tradizione. Those items are highlighted in blue. We chose to order off of the menu... pasta for both of us followed with an order of pinzimonio (see below) and the platter of 5 assorted cheeses. The veal-filled ravioli was excellent.  Perfectly cooked with just enough clarified butter to make me want to mop up the last bits with a piece of bread. The caserecci (see Note) that my husband ordered was also good, although a bit on the salty side, but didn't come anywhere near the ravioli. All of the breads are made in-house, and I could have easily sated myself just on the walnut bread alone. Our only regret is that we couldn't make room for dessert. Just as well, as it only gives us another reason to go back. The best part of the meal?  A bottle of Marina Cvetic Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2000, which I will only say is thee sexiest wine that I've drunk yet. We've had this wine before while on holiday in the town of Scanno (region of Abruzzo). Incredible value for money. Here's a sampling of the menu:

Antipasti Cotecchino con lenticchie Fois gras d'Oca con pan brioche Flan caldo di formaggio con fave e scarola Primi Piatti Ravioli di vitello al burro versato Caserecci di grano saraceno con broccoli e toma d'alpeggio leggermente piccanti Crespelle gratinate con porcini, melanzane e scamorza affumicata Secondi Piatti Pollo alla diavola Coda di bue in umido con polenta Rognoncino di vitello al forno con spinaci Dolci Torta di pere con salsa cioccolato Gelato di crema con croccante e cioccolato I nostri cannoncini alla crema Flan caldo di cioccolato Caraibe con gelato di pera

*Note:
It never fails to amaze me when it comes to the many different types of pasta, both dried and fresh, that are used here in italian kitchens. The caserecci di grano saraceno reminded me of elongated macaroni, but the surface had distinct ridges instead of a smooth texture. They also took on a dark color from the buckwheat flour (gran saraceno) which they are made from.

*Pinzimonio:
Raw spring vegetables served with vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil seasoned with freshly ground black pepper and coarse sea salt.

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Antica Trattoria del Gallo — Vigano Certosino (frazione di Gaggiano)
via Kennedy, 1-3
Tel. 02 9085276
15 km south from Milan

Vigevano

Although I rely heavily on my Italy edition of DK Eyewitness travel guides when it comes to exploring and seeking out the lesser known towns in this country, we still like to pick up magazines that focus on particular regions, attractions, and themes. In the January 2005 issue of Terre di Lombardia, Vigevano is noted as being the town with one of the most beautiful piazze in Italy. Located southwest of Milano, we had the opportunity to see for ourselves why the Piazza Ducale would merit such praise, and it truly is gorgeous!

The areas above the porticos are covered with frescoes, and the duomo which lies at one end of the piazza has an inward curve to it's facade. Looking down at the unique floor pavement, you'll see it set with smooth stones that form geometric and celestial designs (click photo to enlarge). Another interesting note is to stand at the opposite end of the duomo and face it; the effect seems as if the piazza is stretching ahead of you... like elastic! For a better perspective, a walk up the steps of the Torre del Bramante gives a more appreciative view of the entire area.

The piazza was near empty when we were there, giving it a peaceful, almost solemn feeling. A perfect place for artists and sketching or a fine subject to be sketched, as my husband has simply done with this pencil illustration below.

Babkas in the kitchen

Way before Elaine lucked out on getting HER babka (see note), I've been making these yummy yeast breads since ye olde college days, which given the source of my first recipe (Family Circle), only reveals how long ago that was. It's been a while since I've made these and last week I put together a couple of babkas, a Lemon-Cheese and a Chocolate version, and my husband just went nuts over the creamy citrus filling of the first. Mind you, he has never heard of babkas before and perhaps it will be a new Easter tradition for us instead of the usual Colomba seen everywhere during Pasqua in Italy.

Today I'm experimenting with some new flavor combinations, Lime-Ricotta and Chocolate-Cardamom. Wrapped carefully, these keep well in the freezer - just remember to take one out the night before and you've got a quick breakfast treat in the morning.


 
Note:
"CHOCOLATE BOBKA! That's their specialty." - One of my favorite scenes with Elaine, I once came across the full transcript for this hilarious Seinfeld episode and had a great laugh. Remember the black and white cookie?!
 
Colomba: Dove-shaped easter bread which is probably much better if made in the old style of beginning with a biga or pasta madre (mother dough) as the basis. The commercial ones at the supermarket are just too sweet for my taste.

Cappuccino, croissant, and cafe art

Sunday mornings — only recently we've begun to while away the hours at cafe bars down at the lake, and by that I mean an actual sit-down, where often times our late breakfast of cappuccini and zabaione-filled brioche runs into the aperitivo hour just before lunch. Although it is an activity that we both, at one time considered 'touristy', I love the fact that dogs are welcome at many of these establishments (you won't see that in the islands!), and my husband has even begun to take up with sketchbook and pencils once again.

Photo essay - click to enlarge.

Spring Fever

The photo above was actually taken in Amalfi four summers ago, and it is the first one that comes to mind during the long, dark, winter nights. Now, with the sun rising at an earlier hour and the daytime temperatures jumping to a pleasant 17-20 degrees celsius in various parts of Italy, all things are looking fresh and new on the peninsula. La Primavera is here, ready to begin a new season and I can feel the fever. Should be nice to walk around in my rubber slippers again.

Sbrisolona

If there is one sure thing about trying any new italian recipes, it is the sole fact that if my husband is around and has some culinary knowhow on the matter, he will surely want to observe me in the kitchen. I recently baked a sbrisolona, a crumbly treat from Mantova, thanks to Gaia who has generously shared her recipe with me. The buttery flavor reminded me of shortbread, but the texture is nothing like it, because instead of gently pressing the crumb mixture into a pan, you simply pour the dough bits into an even layer and bake until golden brown and firm to the bite. Resist the urge to squash them!! Pressing will only yield you a discus hard enough to be flung at the next Olympics. Gaia's recipe called for two ingredients that weren't present in my pantry stock — farina gialla (finely ground cornmeal) and almonds — so I made do with the usual all-purpose flour and honey-roasted macnuts. Ehhh... close enough right?

The unique trick to eating sbrisolona is that you must break off a piece rather than cutting it, which is next to impossible when it has cooled completely. Truly something to be enjoyed in a convivial atmosphere or over a lazy breakfast with a cup of coffee! Being that it was my first go at making it, the results turned out perfectly, according to my husband who had been watching me like a hawk all along.  "A little more time in the oven...it needs to be browner and firm enough to break into pieces."

*Recipe links for english versions
Sbrisolona Cake  Note: The instructions for this one require some work with the almonds. I would save some time/effort by purchasing blanched almonds, then chop them myself. And instead of melting the butter only to let it cool down and firm up, just leave the butter out to soften a bit at room temperature.
Sbrisolona - Crunchy cake @ Mangiare Bene

A Good Fork

(Italian translation at bottom)
Una buona forchetta — Those three words are what I've always been wanting to hear, because it acknowledges me as being... A Good Fork.  I got my wish while out to dinner with a group of friends, when one of them turns to me and says, "Sei una buona forchetta!"

I could feel a big grin beginning to spread on my face.

And what is the big deal in being a good fork? Well, in Italy it's a person that has a good appetite for food. One that isn't afraid to try new tastes and neither discriminates nor declines an unusual dish just because it's unfamiliar-looking or strong in smell (think cheese!).  On those occasions when we'd be visiting the in-laws, at first my mother-in-law would always ask me if there was anything that I DON'T like to eat. And my reply would always be the same, "Mamma! Mi piace tutto!"  (I like everything!).

This post was supposed to be a photo essay focusing on a popular italian brewery, Birrificio Italiano, because a friend of ours wanted to see what pictures I had taken on our last visit there. (My habit of bringing out the camera at every meal is shameless). Instead, as I look at these 2 photos, all I can think of is the fact that I am content to be considered una buona forchetta. Certainly would've been a little awkward if I'd been thought of as a Good Chopstick!
  
UNA BUONA FORCHETTA - queste tre parole sono cio' che ho sempre voluto sentire, perche' mi denota essere... Una Buona Forchetta. Ho raggiunto questo desiderio mentre ero fuori a cena con un gruppo di amici, quando uno di loro si gira verso di me e dice "SEI UNA BUONA FORCHETTA!"

Potevo sentire un grosso ghigno cominciare ad aprirsi sulla mia faccia.

E che roba e' una buona forchetta? Be', in Italia e' una persona che ha un buon appetito per il cibo. Uno che non ha paura di provare nuovi sapori e nemmeno discrimia o rinuncia ad un piatto insolito solo perche' ha un aspetto poco familiare o ha un forte odore (pensa al formaggio!). Nelle occasioni in cui abbiamo fatto visita ai suoceri, all'inizio mia suocera mi chiedeva se c'e' qualcosa che NON mi piace mangiare. E la mia risposta era sempre la stessa, "MAMMA! MI PIACE TUTTO!".

Questo post avrebbe dovuto essere una composizione di foto focalizzata su una popolare birreria italiana, BIRRIFICIO ITALIANO, perche' i nostri amici volevano vedere le foto che avevo scattato alla nostra ultima visita laggiu'. (La mia abitudine di portare la macchina fotografica ad ogni cena e' senza vergogna). Piuttosto, quando guardo queste due foto, tutto quel che penso e' il fatto che sono contenta di essere considerata UNA BUONA FORCHETTA. Certamente sarei rimasta un po' sbalordita se fossi stata considerata una buona bacchetta cinese!

Raw like Sushi — In giro a Milano

Going around Milan... Every other month we like to take the train into Milan for a day of city atmosphere. My husband enjoys taking me on a tour of his old stomping grounds, to the University that he attended, and to the places that he and his friends frequented when there was a chunk of time in between classes. There is Luini's to go for panzerotti; it's like a calzone but fried and oh-so-good! There is the gothic Duomo to gaze at and the Galleria to pass the time window-shopping and sitting in cafés. At the center of the Galleria, there is also one particular must do for a first-time visitor... spinning your heels on the balls of the bull for good luck!

But the focus here is on raw fish. Sushi. Sashimi. And in da Claudio's we found a sushi place that, although does not resemble any sushi bar I've ever been to, serves fresh fish delicacies that this island girl will only deem as AMBROSIA! Just a sampling of the menu:

ALICI MARINATE  (Marinated anchovies)
CAPPESANTE al naturale  (Coquilles S. Jacques)
CALAMARETTI o SEPPIE al prezzemolo  (Squid or cuttlefish with parsley)
SALMONE o SPADA MARINATO  (Marinated salmon or swordfish)
TARTARE di TONNO  (Tuna tartare)
OSTRICHE  (Oysters 'Belon')

What makes it different is that you go in and walk toward the back of the restaurant to place your order and pay the cashier, who in turn gives you a receipt. From there you give your receipt to any of the sushi chefs that are stationed within the bars around the area and while one pours the dry spumante, the other assembles your order. Sorry, no chairs or seating areas to settle in, just counter space and tall island tables where patrons stand shoulder to shoulder, savoring fresh oysters or raw scallops, while sipping on chilled champagne. It's like sashimi on-the-go. And as it was sort of mentioned earlier, this is truly not your typical sushi bar. I didn't see any rice, nori, or wasabi paste being used. No California rolls, maki sushi, or temaki rolls either. But they did have Kikkoman soy sauce and Tabasco! Ah, and for those in a celebrating mood, a bottle of Mumm's champagne can be had for 38 euros.

For our first time there, we ordered the item at the top of the menu - MISTO PESCE CRUDO/double portion (mixed raw fish). For 15 euros total, it was well worth the trip into town. I'd imagine that da Claudio is always packed with shopaholics and business people, because an article in Italy's Gambero Rosso quotes the owner in saying that Fridays and Saturdays are the busiest, as the total amount of orders can reach up to 500! My only suggestion would be to bring your own chopsticks... you won't find those here.

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via Ponte Vetero, 16
Tel. 02 8056857
Tuesday - Saturday: Noon-2:30/5pm-9pm
web: www.pescheriadaclaudio.it
Within walking distance of all the places mentioned in this post. And not to be missed: Just across the street you can shop to your heart's content for wines, breads, and deli items at Enoteca Arcadia, Panetteria Princi, and Gastronomia Rossi & Grassi, respectively.