Paradiso dei Golosi - Paradise of the Greedy (ones)

Edit: After reading the lively comments to this post, I should add that gelato and brioche is not an item on Paradiso dei Golosi's menu. My husband had tried it at another gelateria and figured it wouldn't hurt to ask. There is however, coffee and gelato (one scoop placed right into a mug of hot java). Go figure...

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Chocolate gelato croissandwich. The nerve! To end Friuli on a sweet note, I was going to save this for last, but Steve of Razar Media did such a very cool gelato greeting for me that it couldn't wait. Paradiso dei Golosi is the ultimate breakfast hangout. Part gelato and pastry shop, snackbar and pizza joint, this promised land of calories served some of the best gelato that I've had in awhile. And it was cheap! 80 cents for one generous scoop, twice the amount for a double. After being gouged at the hotel for coffee and a basket of toast at 5 euros pp, we needed an alternative. This is what we found — fresh croissant filled with gelato of choice for about 1½ euros. Huge, jam-filled krapfen (donuts), 70 cents. Cappuccino for 1.30. Breakfasts totaled to no more than 5 euros for both of us so we visited each day that they were open. If you're a purist, no one is going to scoff at your plain pastry! Of course I asked for my donut to be sliced and filled with custard {does a little dance in chair}. Heck, who diets on vacation anyway? Certainly not Maddie, she's eating cantaloupe gelato {spoiled doggie} and practically yanked it out of my husband's hand after her teeth got a grip on the cone.

No other words needed to decribe this location which has lots of covered, outdoor seating and employs some of the friendliest staffworkers I've ever met (they brought water out for the dog). McDonald's does Egg McMuffins. Italy does ice cream and croissants (here it's called a brioche). If you're traveling to Friuli, make a run to this paradise. Or run away.

Day 1 - chocolate gelato and brioche / apricot jam krapfen


vanilla gelato croissandwich


Paradiso dei Golosi, via Musoni 3, San Pietro al Natisone (UDINE)
Hours: 7:30am - 11pm | closed Mondays

Friuli: What to see and do

The relatively short distance between north and south and the proximity to the neighboring countries of Austria and Slovenia puts the region of Friuli in a position to offer the best of both worlds and then some. This site, Turismo Friuli Venezia Giulia was a big help in planning an itinerary. Unfortunately the whole of Europe was boiling during our trip, so it was impossible to personally get out and visit the bigger towns of Udine, Gorizia, and Trieste on foot. Of the few that we were able to make a decent tour, Aquileia was my favorite. The 4th century mosaic floor in the basilica (thumbs below) is impressive in itself, but it is the humble feeling that one receives when you realize that between the floor and the 15th century wooden roof frame, more than a THOUSAND years of history exist in between. Whew! In Cividale del Friuli, there is an impressive view of a deep gorge and the Natisone River which divides the town in two. This gap is bridged by Ponte del Diavolo (Devil's Bridge - sure wish I knew the story to that one.) Grado, like many touristy harbor towns along the coast, is a smaller version of Portofino on the Italian Riviera. Packed during summer with an international crowd, parking near the town center was NON-EXISTENT (transfer shuttle from outer parking lot runs only on Sunday). Our big regret was not being able to take the motorboat which tours the lagoon. We read about an excellent seafood trattoria on one of its little islands. It supposedly serves a seafood soup to die for. I lost sleep over this. Grrrr...


Since touring by air-conditioned car eventually becomes boring, the only thing left to do was to head up north to the alps. There we could get out and walk around without breaking into a sweat. Views like the one above are simply awesome, really beautiful. Passing through the town of Tolmezzo, I noticed lots of copper pots in the shop display windows. At the village of Sauris in the Carnia area, we participated in a celebration of the locally produced ham or prosciutto (more on this later). Further onward, the scenic route (ss 465) that runs along the Pesarina Valley is gorgeous! Stopping to stretch our legs at one point, I was delighted to identify Devil's claw (that name again), a flower which proliferated on a large rock surface. Little villages are scattered here and there with an architectural style that reminds me of Switzerland. The air is sweet. Everyone looks so - HEALTHY. In the Aupa Valley, we stopped at a cold, shallow stream to dip our feet in. Maddie dug it. Talk about feeling rejuvenated. It makes you want to sing the words to The Sound of Music. [!]

Other points of interest:
Giulie Prealps - home to Mount Canin, the sole glacier in the region. Immediately past the 2nd bridge after Pradielis village, turn left into a hidden parking area. The Torre stream is freezing cold! Less than 5 seconds and our feet were pins and needles. Stupendous vista.
Tarvisio Forest - the detour to the lakes of Fusine is worth the effort. I hope they never turn it into a resort. There's a walking path around the first lake. Absolute tranquility, except for Maddie who wanted to go after the ducks.


Villa Manin - this needs a short mention because of its SIZE. At one time the retreat of Ludovico Manin, a public road passes through the grounds. Located in Passariano.

La Frasca (the branch)

Locating bundles of dried sticks was the first thing we kept our eyeballs open for upon entering Friuli. As told to my husband by a workmate, "You're going to Friuli? Then you'll see le frasche along the road." According to him, "the branches" signaled the availability of meals from proprietors of the agriturismi (farmstays). Most likely at a very reasonable price.

But you know how it goes when you try SO HARD to find something that you won't even see it, even if it's right in front of your nose? We were a couple of blind bats because:
1.) There was nothing particularly noticeable at roadside entrances and
2.) We were looking in the wrong direction. Those arboreal symbols of a homecooked meal were fastened up high on signposts and utility poles, pretty much blending right into the scenery. Once we made the discovery, la frasca was seen everywhere and the pics show how easy they were to spot and the degree of marketing used in which to promote the location. Not a lot of flash but a whole lot of charm! The wine flask, or fiasco, was a sure giveaway but turned out to be not only places to drink a glass of wine or have a bite of salame and cheese, but also a place where men, young and old, gathered together at the end of a work day. The last two images are of the ones that we chose to visit on the last night of the trip — both of them flowing with vino and not much else except way too many loud and single dudes. Not exactly what we had in mind.

Agriturismo Luis - wine to take away


Above and below: Fiasco + arrow + branches = vino, vino, vino, and lots of company

We both admit to disappointment at not finding a cozy little place that served supper and should've asked the hotel owner beforehand for suggestions. Upon checkout, we inquired about the custom of la frasca {btw, practiced only in Friuli} and she explained that it first began with the wine producers then was eventually taken up by the local farmstays in a sort of cultural badge of advertisement. She went on to say that typically, the meals are simple affairs, offering humble dishes such as frittata (egg omelette), vegetables, grilled meat, fruit tarts... essentially, food that was either grown or raised on the premises.

Digging deep on the web for the real beginnings of la frasca ('cause in Italy there's always a story behind everything), an italian site sums it up best and I give a loose translation:

[A barbarian king passing through the Alps sent his men out to search for places where there might be "good drink and good rest." The men hung a tree branch to identify those that they found. From then on, la frasca has become a sort of emblem for all farmhouses where typical products of traditional friulian gastronomy can be found.]

My how times have changed. Now we just "google it", scour people's blogs for restaurant critiques, or lug around heavy guidebooks...

Back from the region of Friuli

Of the 53 images worth keeping (a third of which is entirely food pics alone!), this one has got to be my favorite as it captures the adventurous spirit of canines in general — Maddie's furry face out the window with the wind in her ears. "Have dog, will travel" should be a bumpersticker for all dog lovers; they're the best travel companions!

From east of the Tagliamento River and up towards Austria, the Friulian terrain is made up of wide plains and hills that eventually yield to the majestic alpine mountain range. Making our way through the main cities and small towns, over country roads across a green landscape of cornfields and a whole lot of vineyards, our excursions mainly centered around food: what to eat and where. This mind-set led us on a crisscross tour over much of the region, skirting the Slovenian border on skinny backroads one day to cruising the deep valleys and forests of northern Friuli the next. Heading south to the Adriatic revealed a town steeped in pre-Christian history and roman ruins while driving further along the Gulf of Trieste beheld a panoramic coastline view to go gaga over. All in all, it was a terrific week in a very unique part of Italy and the following posts will cover the cuisine, particular points of interest, Slovenia, and of course, those dead branches that I wrote about previously. Be back in a bit...

Raining cats, dogs, and frozen peas

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Although we've welcomed brief thunderstorms the past two evenings, the heavy burst of rain coupled with hail last Friday was something more than respite from the heat, as it ended up being quite the event for Ms. Maddie. The little balls of ice were no larger than the size of peas so I let her run loose, but it must have come as a surprise when she ventured out into the storm to investigate. Walking back into the house with her tail tucked under said everything. Crazy dog!

We hope for a pleasant forecast next week... heading off to the region of Friuli — the very northeastern part of Italy which borders along Austria and Slovenia. I've not heard much about this place except for what a colleague shared with my husband. He told of a most charming (old?) habit practiced by farmhouses and agriturismos in that area. A bundle of old branches is placed at the entrance of the roadside in order to let prospective diners know that meals are offered. [Can you just picture me on the lookout for those things? They got sticks! They got sticks there yonder!] I'm anxious to try the traditional dishes as I've heard it is an interesting blend of cultures, and is unique in terms of what many consider italian food to be. Pizza? Pasta? With an eastern european twist? Worth checking out, and we shall return with cheese, wine, grappa, and whatever else for sure!

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Saved comment(s)

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Aahhh... I look upon those cool, rainy days (here they were nights) with fond nostalgia as I sweat, swelter and try to sleep.
Susan | Homepage | 07.21.06 - 9:52 am

When you return, visit my blog for a gelato treat.
Stephen Newton | Homepage | 07.20.06 - 2:08 pm

Can you send some rain to texas?!? your dog is so cute! cant wait to see some pictures from fruili. ~ i enjoy your blog!
stacy | 07.15.06 - 2:46 am

It sounds delightful. I can't wait to hear about your trip. And I think that custom is quite charming!
Ivonne | Homepage | 07.14.06 - 9:42 pm

Rowena ~ tomorrow's the Bob Dylan concert, I thought we would meet there and instead I read that you're going to Friuli!! Hmmm.... Enjoy yourself!
ilva | Homepage | 07.14.06 - 3:25 pm

Rain, rain, go away come again some other day. We're experiencing the same deluge here in Florida. I do hope you have a wonderful trip and let us all know about the food and the reliability of the sticks in the road as a sign of great cuisine.
Stephen Newton | Homepage | 07.14.06 - 2:59 pm

Kiwi-Macadamia nut gelato

Less than a couple minutes out on the terrace barefooted and I'm hotfooting it into the shade, but despite what the weatherman has been saying about high temperatures this summer, we have been getting by just fine in the cooler climes of the mountain woods. The key words being repeated on tv are water, water, water, shade, and lots of gelato, so I've dusted off the gelato machine and have begun to make our favorites, namely, vanilla and double chocolate. Always open to new flavor combos, some kiwi that I ate with vanilla yogurt for breakfast gave me this idea. The addition of macadamias seemed a natural thing as the kiwis reminded me of New Zealand and the macnuts of Australia. Yup, sorry hawaiian macs, you're still #1 in my book but the Land Down Under grows macnuts too.

1 1/2 cups whole milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
2 large, whole eggs
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3 large, ripe kiwi
1/3 cup macadamia nuts, diced

1. Halve the kiwi fruit and scoop out the flesh into a small bowl. Smash to a pulp with a wooden spoon. Turn into a strainer over a bowl to drain and place in the refrigerator.
2. Heat the milk and heavy cream in a heavy saucepot until tiny bubbles form around the edge. Do not let come to a boil!
3. Meanwhile, whisk the eggs together with the sugar until light in color. Temper the egg mixture by slowly whisking in the hot milk in a thin, steady stream. Strain the egg/milk liquid into a clean saucepot and cook over very low heat, stirring frequently, until it coats the back of a spoon. Do not allow to overcook as the eggs will curdle.
4. Pour into a glass bowl and allow to cool completely, stirring occasionally to avoid a skin from forming on the top. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until very cold.
5. Churn the mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions until firm. Scoop into a large bowl and fold in the kiwi pulp and macnuts. Transfer gelato to a container and freeze until desired consistency.

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Saved comment(s)

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Hey Rowena ~ I stop in for a visit, and what do I find but an absolutely sumptuous gelato recipe. Looks mouthwatering. We haven't done any ice-cream yet, despite the sweltering temps, but you're definitely inspiring me to put the canister in the freezer...
Julie | Homepage | 07.14.06 - 5:18 pm

Dude! You have GOT TO write a book and get your own tv show like finger lady ~ Giada / Everyday Italian. Where's Maddie? You know, I visit your blog A LOT to look at her because I am soooo wanting a puppy.
Ruth | 07.14.06 - 6:34 am

That looks so cool and delicious. We have a gelato shop here and we've even made some for ourselves, but this recipe looks superb. Thanks!
Stephen Newton | Homepage | 07.13.06 - 4:09 pm

I am planning on getting an ice-cream maker soon, too! I want to duplicate this chocolate raspberry truffle ice cream I had in Hilton Head, SC. It is fantastic! Yours looks fantastic, too.. I love macnuts.
Barry | Homepage | 07.13.06 - 2:38 am

Good for you, Rowena for sticking to it! I sold my ice cream maker when we moved to Italy. The quality of the stuff they sell in some of the gelaterie is better than what I produced anyway, but I miss my lavender ice cream!
Susan | Homepage | 07.12.06 - 5:15 pm

The Singing Fringuello

Between birds and bugs, I'm beginning to think that I should have gotten into ornithology or entymology. In our new place, we are surrounded by a lot of chestnut trees, and have been serenaded throughout the day by the fringuello, or chaffinch (excellent bird photography by a UK site). Up until a couple of weeks ago we also heard cuckoo birds (cuculo in italian), which was rather funny for someone growing up in the Pacific. There are no cuckoos in Hawaii, or atleast not the feathered type, and all I kept thinking was, what time is it?

The video of our very barren-looking front yard is just to hear the sounds of the fringuello. The volume needs to be turned up a bit, but you can definitely hear chirping at the very beginning, the middle, and at the end. With any luck and a lot of hard work, next year there should be a nice green lawn, maybe a couple of fruit trees, flowers, and possibly, birds in the image. Cross our green thumbs, or we'll have to hire a gardener.

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Lucciola: Glow bug in my trash bag

The other night I noticed a bright green speck glowing through the sheer plastic of the paper recycles sack and thought, "Damn! We've got nuclear waste in there!! Dario, what DID you throw into the trash?" (Always blame the husband first). It turned out to be a lucciola, or a glow worm/glow bug/whatever-you-wanna-call-it, although it goes by the scientific name of Lampyris noctiluca. About an inch in length, at first we weren't sure what it was. The only other glowing insects I've seen were fireflies at our previous residence, but aren't fireflies supposed to have wings? This one didn't, and was so ugly, that if not for its luminescent qualities, might have ended up like the tiny, brown scorpion that crossed my path in the middle of the night last week - *SmAsHeD* - by a rolled up newspaper. [Yeah, I know that Frances Mayes sweeps HERS out the door].

Not satisfied until I knew what was held prisoner in my jar, I googled insetti luminosi and found that it indeed, was a FEMALE of the firefly species; only the males have wings. And wouldn't you know? She was glowing to attract a mate? DUH! I guessed then that it must be mating season, so we did the right thing and let her out into the garden to get it on...ehrrr... I meant to get on with it.

Links: Glow worms (great site) | UK Glow worm survey | Insetti strani (italian)

"Little Trumpet" zucchini

Short of actually goofing off this morning (got 2 loads of laundry done!), I was trying to take a decent close-up of these lengthy vegs within the entire camera frame before finally giving up. Zucchini gurus, don't blow your horn just yet, because just when I thought I'd seen all types of zukes there could possibly be (remember them prickly ones from Calabria?), I come across these zucchine trombetta, or 'little trumpet' zucchini from western Liguria over the weekend. Take a look at a better image here. I was in weird veggie heaven, and a search on the internet yielded quite a bit of information on this italian website to which I share some of it in the following:

[Flesh of a pale yellow color with a distinctive, delicate flavor. Very versatile in cooking, they are much appreciated in homestyle recipes, going well with fish and meat, and are traditionally fried, stuffed, used in savory pies, or made into frisceui (a typical fritter from Liguria). Considering that these delicious, edible, members of the squash family are vegetables of humble regard, they are oft used in contemporary cuisine, in a marriage of new tastes with shrimp, cuttlefish, bream, mussels, and turbot — disproving the old adage "If the cook is good, also the zucchinis are good."]