Dolcetto o scherzetto?

Or "Treat or trick?" as they say in Italy. Tomorrow is also a holiday (All Saint's Day) and most everyone gets to stay home. Happy Halloween!

El Sciatt: snacking on fried toad

"La Rowena ha la pel da sciatt..."

"Rowena has toad skin" my father-in-law says of me the year before. That should be plenty reason for a daughter-in-law to wage war with the procreator of her significant other, but in truth, it actually generated a feeling of smugness from myself. It was around this time of season (when everyone seemed to be down with the flu) that my husband's father, as is his habit, called to see how we were both doing. "Dad" found it incredulous that I suffered only a minor cold which lasted no more than a couple of days. He continued on the phone with my husband, conversing in dialect, and only later when it was explained to me that my skin must be so tough as to resist any sort of winter illness, did I finally get the picture. Yeah, I'm resilient. "It's the Laphroaig whiskey," I wanted to tell him.

Sciatt (shee-AHHT) is also the name of a fritter made with both buckwheat and all-purpose flours, water, cheese, and a leavening agent. Note the effect of the diced cheese which gives it "warts". They are ugly-looking appetizers, even if that statement reads like an oxymoron. But what would you expect of something that's named after a toad in dialect? (The true word for toad is rospo) Sciatt, rospo, toad, bufo, whatever...the important thing is how they taste, and all I can say is — you can't stop at just one.

Sciatt

Stoneground buckwheat flour is what really makes these fried morsels as it has a flavor all its own. If not readily available, I suppose wholewheat flour would work just as well. As for the cheese, the one stated here might be impossible to obtain outside of the states. A good substitute would be anything that is flavorful and semi-firm in texture; you want the cheese to melt but not so much that it melts completely into the hot oil and you lose the "warty" effect. I would try cheddar; make that extra-sharp.

75 grams (1/2 cup) buckwheat flour
50 grams (1/3 cup) all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup water
75 grams (3 oz.) Valtellina casera cheese, cut into 1/4-inch dice
A good pinch of baking soda dissolved in 1 tablespoon water
Vegetable oil for frying

1. Combine both flours, salt, and water in a mixing bowl to form a soft batter. Add the diced cheese, mix well, and cover with plastic wrap. Allow to rest for 2 hours (I don't know why this is but when in Rome or in this case Lombardia, I do as they do.)
2. When the resting period is almost up, fill a frying pan with oil to a depth of around 1/2 inch. Preheat to 375 degrees. Dissolve baking soda in the water and stir into the batter. Drop by tablespoons into the hot oil and fry to a golden brown. Drain well on paper towels. Skim off and discard any bits of fried "cheese crumbs" as they appear.
3. Arrange on a bed of arugula or other salad greens and lightly sprinkle with salt. Serve immediately. Makes 1 dozen.

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I'm intrigued by the Sciatt - because I think [maybe?] it would translate well to gluten free. [Buckwheat is GF.] Hmmm... Thanks for the inspiration, Rowena!
Karina | Homepage | 10.31.06 - 4:55 pm

The little toad fritters sound yummy, and the pic makes them look pretty tasty despite the name! That story about your father-in-law calling you toad skin, and it turning out to be a compliment, is priceless.
jackie | Homepage | 10.31.06 - 11:55 am

Hey but I think they look great with the arugula underneath, all the fried, crispiness promising decadent flavor. So you're really going to town with the buckwheat flour. Excellent.
Susan in Italy | Homepage | 10.30.06 - 9:02 pm

I'm so glad these are buckwheat and cheese and not actually toad!! They sound delicious (real toad - not so much). My guess about the rest period is to let the whole grain absorb the liquid - I just got the King Arthur whole grains cookbook and this seems to be common practice in their recipes. In fact their recipe for buckwheat pancakes says to let the batter rest for 30 minutes. By the way, I just read the blurb in the book about buckwheat and they say pureed cooked buckwheat (grano saraceno, frumentone) is used in northern Italy to make polenta nera.
Cathy | Homepage | 10.30.06 - 4:56 pm

Opihi: Azorean-style

Today's post is especially directed to the local islanders out there, because I'm certain that for some, the image above will guarantee a big YUCK. They are limpets, or opihi to anyone in Hawaii (patella in Italy). I've heard that these are regarded as the rubbish shellfish of the ocean, a thing that you'd never consider worth eating, but in the islands this does not hold true. I'm crazy for them like you wouldn't believe, being a person that was practically sustained on this insipid source of protein. Opihi might not be all that encouraging to look at but the flavor is quite like the highly-esteemed land snails that I enjoy here. Just think sea escargot! Only recently have they been available at our fishmonger, and at $7/pound, are as close to a taste of "home" that I could possibly get.

I've named the limpets Azorean-style because the recipe loosely follows one on the cuisine of the Azores Islands. It is so simple as to be one of those dishes that you might imagine a fisherman throwing together in a well-used pot. My portuguese/puerto rican brother-in-law back in Hawaii grills them on the hibachi with a killer hot sauce, and the idea of cooking these hawaiian-style (or not cooking them for that matter) did enter my mind. But being that I'm using harvested ones from the Adriatic gives me an excuse to try something new. There are no exact measurements given because whatever the amount of limpets that you use, "how much" is determined with your eyes.

Fresh limpets, rinsed free of sand and grit
Good quality olive oil
Sweet onion, sliced into thin rounds
Garlic, minced
Fresh chile pepper, minced
Bay leaf
Parsley (italian or american), chopped
Salt and pepper

Saute the onions in a bit of oil to soften. Add the garlic and hot pepper; continue to cook until the aroma is released. Add the rinsed limpets, bay leaf, parsley and just enough water to keep the limpets and aromatics from scorching. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook on medium heat until the limpets are released from their shells; about 3 minutes or so. Serve immediately with steamed rice.

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Mmmmmmm, onolicious! Who doesn't love opihi?! I'm from Oahu, living in Malawi (landlocked country, with a huge fresh water lake that yields unappetising fresh water fish) and I only recently discovered your fantastic blog. When I was a kid, I'd visit family on Molokai and pick--and eat!--opihi all day long (or at least it seemed like it was all day). These Adriatic limpets make a good substitute--but how does it really compare to the classic opihi? Still, I would kill for a taste of these!
Poppy | 10.28.06 - 10:43 am

I love all of your seashells pics, looking at them, I can definitely see the Rubbers Slippers girl in them.
Bea at La Tartine Gourmande | Homepage | 10.27.06 - 11:41 pm

OMG, Rowena. That looks so amazingly delicious. Now I'm the one who's jealous!! Oh, I miss 'opihi soooo much--even when I do go home to Maui, the really good stuff is so hard to find. Thanks for sharing!
Creen | Homepage | 10.27.06 - 6:21 pm

Azorean style sounds "ono". Haven't seen opihi here in Japan.
Kat | Homepage | 10.27.06 - 3:38 pm

Making buckwheat soba from scratch!?

This expression (and I swear it was something close to it) is what spread over my face when I found a curious recipe for Homemade Soba Noodles. A sudden craving for soba with shoyu, sesame seeds, and green onions led me to discover the above link, which, by the way, is dated more than a decade ago! How great is that to make your own soba? The best part, the "curious" part, is that it called for the kneading process to be carried out on the floor with bare feet.

Usually my success rate at trying unique recipes is pretty good. Unfortunately for this one, the noodles didn't come out perfect and thin like I had hoped. I halved the amounts to get a smaller yield and it was obvious from the get-go that there wasn't enough water for the flour to come together. So I kneaded in a little more liquid until I was able to push together a firm, solid, dough mass.

Following the steps for working the dough was easier to accomplish. This was committed foot work; even the Mads lended a paw. The dough seemed to develop after maybe the 4th cha-cha but ultimately, I kneaded it by hand for a few minutes before letting it rest.




Okay so I cheated and used toe socks instead of going barefoot.

The final step: Rolling the dough out thinly was an endeavor as it became more fragile the thinner it got. At this point I was ready to give up, knowing that if the noodles were so difficult to work with, then it was possible they would fall apart when it was time to cook. Cutting them with a pastry wheel was simple. Trying to handle them without breaking was not. I managed to get some decent strands out of the whole mess and put them in a pot of boiling water. They held together well enough and after 3 minutes, drained, then drizzled them with soy sauce, sesame oil, and a sprinkle of furikake.

The taste test: The buckwheat flavor and texture came through nicely but...eating broken soba lost a lot of points. I think the problem could be with the buckwheat flour. The type that I find in Italy is macinata a pietra - stoneground. If soba requires a much finer-milled grain, then no wonder I ended up with stuff that looks like kindling.

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Because of such encouraging comments, I'm considering another attempt at soba again. Until then, take a look at this wonderful site simply named soba ソバ. It's written by a man who loves soba with a passion!
~rowena~ | 10.25.06 - 8:18 pm

LOL! I was laughing before I even read through your whole post. That photo is just perfect! Thank goodness for store-bought soba! but kudos to you for trying to make it from scratch. I have never made any type of pasta from scratch before.
JMom | Homepage | 10.25.06 - 7:58 pm

Little Maddie scored for the day again. She's so cute and helpful. I've never attempted to make my own noodles before, sounds like a challenge when i've never done them with hands and start by feet. :D
piccola | 10.25.06 - 6:44 pm

I forgot to mention that the photo of "Buckwheat" was a nice touch.
Stephen Newton | Homepage | 10.25.06 - 5:44 pm

Yes, I'm sure humidity makes a difference, as does altitude, etc. We use our trusty Italian pasta maker to flatten and produce consistent noodles rather than a rolling pin. Don't know if that would make a difference or not, but I loved your colorful toe socks.
Stephen Newton | Homepage | 10.25.06 - 5:42 pm

Ahaahh Rowena, you are the best! You have the best stories, ever!
Bea at La Tartine Gourmande | Homepage | 10.25.06 - 4:17 pm

Wow! I am impressed, homemade soba! I've heard that you sometimes need to play with the amount of water depending on the humidity in the air to get the right consistency. I hope you'll try this again.
Kat | Homepage | 10.25.06 - 1:48 pm

Fruit watch: Persimmons, kiwis, and pomegranates

	The arrival of sweet persimmons - cachi or kaki fruit in Italy - comes right on the heels of chestnut season. I've noticed the sudden appearance of color on many kaki trees here in Lecco. Right now, a flat of ripe fruit equals to about 6 bucks. We've already devoured half of our stash at left. So good!
	I could name these kiwi cherries. Or vice versa. Cultivated in the Trentino region of Italy, these Hardy Kiwi (kiwi arguta) are the coolest new fruit to hit the produce aisle this season. They're the size of Bing cherries, but the taste and texture is undeniably kiwi. The fuzz (or lack thereof) makes them a real pleasure to eat out-of-hand, or an effortless addition to fruit salad, skin and all.
	Pomegranate (the juice). Reportedly one of Oprah's favorite martinis, the photo links to the drink recipe that I tried. Last month there was a pomegranate celebration in southern Italy - Salento I believe - with tv coverage of the event. Looked to be another great sagra that we missed. Ah well, we're too far from there anyway. I'll just settle for the martini. Photo credit: http://www.stltoday.com

Imperial prawns with chocolate-orange sauce

Anyone game for seafood and chocolate? This idea comes adapted from a spanish recipe for Langostinos en chocolate (prawns in chocolate). I've used the tails of what's known as mazzancolla (Imperial prawn) in Italy. Same smell, but what I've done differently is that after marinating, the prawns are dipped in beaten egg and rolled in japanese bread crumbs (panko) before frying. The added crunch of the panko gives a nice texture/look, and the sauce can be served separately for those who might turn squeamish at the very thought of shellfish + garlic + oj + chocolate all at one go.

1 pound large prawn or tiger shrimp tails (the largest that you can find)
2 cloves garlic, minced fine or put through a garlic press
1 large orange, juiced
1/4 teaspoon powdered ginger
Salt and pepper
Vegetable oil for frying
Bamboo skewers
1 large egg, beaten
Panko
1/2 oz. semi-sweet chocolate, chopped into pieces

1. Remove the shells (leaving the ends on) and dark vein from each tail by making a shallow slit down the back. Place in a single layer in a large dish.
2. Whisk together the minced garlic, orange juice, ginger, a good pinch of salt and ground black pepper in a bowl. Pour this over the prawns and marinate for about 1/2 hour.
3. Heat vegetable oil to frying temperature. Remove and thoroughly drain prawns of the marinade (reserving the liquid). Insert bamboo skewer along the length of each tail. Dip into the beaten eggs then coat with panko. Carefully dip into hot oil and fry on all sides until golden. Drain on paper towels and set aside.
4. Simmer the reserved citrus marinade in a small heavy pot until reduced by 1/2. Turn down the heat source to its lowest setting and stir in the chocolate until completely melted and just begins to slightly thicken. Remove from heat.
5. Arrange the prawns on a bed of shredded lettuce or spinach leaves and ladle the sauce over all or serve on the side. Makes for an interesting antipasto.

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This is so innovative! I have not yet tried the association of chocolate in savory food like this. Are you tempting me Rowena?
Bea at La Tartine Gourmande | Homepage | 10.24.06 - 1:39 am

Rowena, congratulations on the Food & Wine blog watch post. That's terrific! So is this dish, photo, entry, of course.

Seeing the light and wonderful result, I want to share with you a great discovery I made this week that would send this into "best dish ever" land. Have you ever tried frying in Rice Bran Oil? I just tasted it this weekend, also on prawns coated in panko, and it blew my mind. The result is so much lighter, flakier and less greasy than vegetable or even peanut oil. It's incredible. Some of the other properties are fabulous too. Have you used it before?
stephanie | Homepage | 10.23.06 - 4:04 pm

I love it! Only you could make me want to eat prawns and chocolate ... at the same time! By the way, congratulations on this post being chosen as one of the top 5 for the week at Food & Wine! :o)
Ivonne | Homepage | 10.23.06 - 2:38 am

Ooh, prawns and chocolate! Nice combination! Of course anything with chocolate is ;-) Do you eat the deep-fried tails in Italy? In Japan, we do, extra calcium.
Kat | Homepage | 10.20.06 - 2:36 am

Enough...if I keep blending chocolate with these wonderful recipes you're posting, I will be known as Big Bubba. Yummy. Wish I was there to enjoy.
Stephen Newton | Homepage | 10.19.06 - 11:28 pm

What an interesting combination! I used to be put off by chocolate in savory dishes until I got hooked on mexican mole'. Now, I'm game for anything chocolatey! I can just imagine the contrast in flavors in this dish. I'm going to have to try it out as soon as I find some decent prawns.
JMom | Homepage | 10.19.06 - 4:33 pm

Hiking in Adamello

Instead of a weekend attending the Mostra del Bitto (in Morbegno) for a taste of bitto and other food products from that area, we took advantage of the still agreeable temperatures and headed north to Adamello Regional Park. Our intentions were to gradually ease Maddie (aka Miss Broken Leggy for the time being) back into hiking. She has been on vet's orders to take it easy, as an operation had to be done on her left rear leg for Legg-Perthes Disease. A piece of dead bone tissue was removed and that's it. This was performed the 2nd of September, and as of today, the healing process has been getting along nicely. Unfortunately for her, this means no chance of becoming Mama Maddie to a litter of puppies.

A few cool-looking 'shrooms... Mountain forests are always a wonder to behold. If I'm picking my way through flora at higher elevations on the islands, it's usually with one goal in mind - bring back something for the kitchen! I've gathered edible ferns, guavas, plums, pears, and lilikoi (passionfruit). The only thing I don't see much of are fungi, although in Hawaii there is a fungus called pepeiao (wood ear mushroom), a prized ingredient in both home and restaurant kitchens. In Italy, specimens like the ones below amaze me (it's probable that a couple of them are lethal) but the wheels in my head turn anyway. Somehow it doesn't feel right returning home empty-handed.

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Cool looking 'shrooms! Too bad the prettiest ones are the most lethal, ha? Hey, it's the same way with women too! lol! - How's your island family? Heard about the earthquake in HI, I hope yours are ok.
JMom | Homepage | 10.17.06 - 9:29 pm

Ooohh! Those last two give me the heebee geebees! I've heard they're only toxic, not deadly as if that were a consolation.
Susan in Italy | Homepage | 10.17.06 - 3:58 pm

The middle one is edible and called massatambour. I have no idea if I have spelled that correctly as my Italian husband isn't here at the moment to correct my spelling. The other two are not edible. If you have any interest in a few pictures of porcini, which is the specialty in our woods here in Piemonte, have a look at my blog Bella Baita View for the past few entries. I enjoy your stories since I ran across you from the food bloggers that I discovered. I'm still a bit new to all of this. I try to have a look here from time to time when I steal a few moments to myself.
Pasticcera | Homepage | 10.17.06 - 3:15 pm

The mushrooms look wonderful! I don't think i can find any edible shrooms if i go to the forest area in my country. It's so much fun to gather your own mushrooms, edible ferns, and I heard chestnuts and snails too. Wonder how you manage to tell if it's edible or not.
Piccola | 10.17.06 - 5:09 am

What a nice way to enjoy Autumn! I agree, I think the red/orange ones aren't edible!
I hope Maddie gets better soon.
Kat | Homepage | 10.17.06 - 1:20 am

Poor Maddie - hope she's back to normal real soon.
Those are beautiful pictures - the orange one with spots makes me think of the classic fairy tale type mushroom.
Cathy | Homepage | 10.16.06 - 6:59 pm

Rowena, great shots. I bet the orange one with spots is definitely lethal. Was thinking about you and mushrooms over the weekend when I was making a side dish using dried porcini mushrooms and dreaming that if I lived in Italy like you, I could hunt them myself fresh. Dried JUST ISN'T ACCEPTABLE.
stephanie | Homepage | 10.16.06 - 3:55 pm

Update!: The last mushroom image is named fly agaric. Go to The Amazing Fungi - control+F Amanita muscaria
~rowena~ | post-edited on May 29, 2008

Italian Love Potion Number #9?

I took my troubles down to Madame Rue.
You know that gypsy with the gold capped tooth
She’s got a pad down on 34th and Vine,
Selling little bottles of Love Potion #9.

There is always something new to discover in this country. And today of all days couldn't be a more appropriate date in which to share what I've learned through my neighbors. About a month ago the couple next door invited us over for a surprise dinner. "É una sorpresa!" Ms. G tells us. What was the big surprise? Why cheese of course, with more than 7 kilos of formaggio italiano and some pretty good salami to boot. Right away I knew that it was going to be a long, heavy evening with my cholesterol levels hitting the roof. Ms. G's roots are from Campania, and as an antipasto she served zeppulelle, a sort of fried bread puff — nothing fancy really, just simple and goooood! To end the evening she brought out a tall, sleek bottle that was made rather jewel-toned in color from the bright liquid within. Now I like the italian custom of offering a digestive liqueur or digestivo after dinner, but it never crossed my mind that I'd be going "Okole Maluna!" or "Bottoms Up" on a witch's potion!

Witch's WHAT? Bet that raised eyebrows! But in fact, there is an herb-based liqueur named Strega, the italian word for witch. And again this is where I'm pleased to unearth yet another story behind Italy's historical pagan culture. Once considered as a love potion, and seemingly *glowing* with a mesmerizing yellow from the saffron component, strega is a drink you'll either love or hate. At Gli Onesti Piaceri (The Honest Pleasures), the website gives insight on the beginnings of this curiously-named brew, where it all began long ago in a Vatican enclave halfway between Rome and Napoli. Dust off your broomsticks because furthermore, according to ancient legend this location was said to be a meeting place for witches of the WORLD. Anyhoo... Despite the mysterious background I still hold firm that its potency is assured and gets the job done as a digestive. If you're able to procure a bottle of Strega, try this recipe for Zeppulelle at your next salame and cheese party and you'll understand why. Links: Wikipedia | Liqueurs of Italy    **Happy Friday the 13th!**

Zeppulelle

The full name is zeppulelle 'e pasta crisciuta, dialect from the region of Campania. All it means is that these zeppy things are made from risen (leavened) dough, pasta crisciuta. Not to be confused with the sweet pastry zeppole, zippole, or zippulas from other regions.

2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 pkg. instant dry yeast
3/4 cup warm water
oil for frying
salt
1. Dissolve the yeast with 3 tablespoons warm water. In a large bowl, combine the flour and a good pinch of salt then add the yeast liquid and the water, working with your hands until everything begins to comes together. If the dough still seems too dry, add a little more until pliable.
2. Knead the dough until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Place in a bowl, cover with a cloth or plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place for 2 hours.
3. In a heavy pan, heat the oil to 375 degrees and with the aid of a soupspoon, scoop out almost golfball-size portions of dough and carefully drop into the hot oil. Fry on all sides until the zeppulelle are a light golden color. They should expand to become the size of an egg. Drain on paper towels and season with a sprinkling of salt. Serve hot. Makes 1 dozen.

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The history behind Strega gets even more interesting when you take into consideration that a pharmacist is known as a SPISIÉ in Lombard dialect; speziaio (spell?) in standard italian. In other words, a person who works with spices. Makes sense right? But who else would you turn to (in the old days) when in dire need of a remedy for ailments, bad luck, or problems in love? Why, the medicine doctor, or local "witch" if you will.
~rowena~ | 10.17.06 - 10:30 am

What a great story behind Strega! I've seen it before but never tried it. It kind of reminds me of an italian Liqueur I saw once in a restaurant in Spain (of all places). It had a skull and crossbones on it and was called, "Latte di Suocera" (Mother-in-law's Milk)!
Susan in Italy | Homepage

The zeppulelle look yummy, and the background about Strega is really interesting - I never knew! We'll have to add it on to our must-haves at our halloween party...it sounds perfect for such an event! Any plans for you for Halloween?
jackie | Homepage

mmmm... those look really good. Sort of like salty doughnuts. :-)
Cathy | Homepage

Rowena, I asked my wife to read your Strega post, since she is, by all definitions, a witch. I will look for Strega here in the US. I may have to buy it on the Internet, since the Tennessee mountains are not the mecca for unusual foodstuffs, let alone exotic liqueurs. If I was able to vote on the best design/blog, yours would definitely be #1.
Stephen Newton | Homepage

Wow! Italian's seem to be very good neighbours and hosts.
piccola

Salami, cheese, zeppulelle! YUMMY-O! And witch's potion..interesting stuff. Thanks for sharing. :-)
Kat | Homepage

Culingionis

Grating fresh pecorino for the filling

It's getting busier in the kitchen, because aside from the garlic, and the chocolate, and all of the other things that are on for this month, now I go and get myself wanting to make filled pasta. This time it's culingionis or culurzones: potato, pecorino, and mint-stuffed 'ravioli' from the island of Sardegna. What attracted me to these was how the edges are pinched together. I've been studying them for the longest time, scrutinizing the photos in cookbooks and also the ones you can buy pre-made at the market but I still can't figure out how it's done. My pleats are too big and awkward, not small and dainty like these here [tiny pop-up window]. Arghgh! Ah well, perhaps someone trained in the clever art of sealing these might read this post and show me how...


I've used a recipe from the combination of two cookbooks, but the color of the pasta lacks the yellow tinge like those at the grocers. Reading the package ingredient list, I noted the use of both white and semolina flour which would explain the difference in hue. To remedy this minor problem, a pinch of powdered saffron (or you could use yellow food color) was added to the cooking water. It was a bit too yellow I'll admit, but the flavor actually turned out great, with the saffron giving an extra dimension in flavor.

Culingionis or Culurzones

The dual names reflect the difference between dialect and standard italian. Serves 4.

For the pasta:
2 cups bread or all-purpose flour
1/2 cup water
salt
olive oil
For the filling:
1 pound white or yellow potatoes
5 oz. fresh pecorino, grated
1/4 cup finely julienned fresh mint
1 large clove garlic, finely minced
*Aged pecorino for grating
*Yellow food color or saffron powder (optional)

1. Boil the potatoes until tender. [While the spuds are boiling, start making the pasta]. When cool enough to handle, peel and mash them in a large bowl, add the grated fresh pecorino, mint, and garlic. Mix to thoroughly combine. Set aside to cool.

2. Making the pasta: Combine the flour and salt in a large bowl or work surface. (You can also make this with a KitchenAid mixer). Add a pinch of salt, a good drizzle of olive oil, and the water. Work everything together with your hands, adding more water as needed to yield a firm dough. Knead until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Cover with a towel and let rest for 30 minutes.

3. Forming the culurzones: Roll the dough to a thickness of about 1/16th of an inch. Cut out 3-inch circles and top each with a small ball of filling. I suggest rolling the filling into oval shapes to facilitate the sealing process. Bring up the sides to enclose and make a series of pleats, press firmly at each fold. Use a dab of water only if necessary to moisten the edges. Makes about 3 dozen.

4. Butta la pasta!: Start cooking the pasta! Bring a large pot of water to a boil, salt to taste and add a drop of food color or a pinch of saffron powder. If cooking all of the culurzones, make sure to have a very large pot or do this in batches. Gently drop in and cook for about 3-5 minutes. Drain and serve immediately with a drizzle of quality olive oil and grated pecorino or your favorite tomato sauce recipe.

Note: On the first day, since the culurzones were obviously very fresh, and very fragile, it took only 3 minutes to cook. After sitting in the fridge overnight, they were much sturdier and the cooking time upped to 5 minutes.

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Well I still can't leave these alone because I recently bought some casonsei in a shop further north. They look like the sardinian types but were filled with a mixture of potatoes, wild nettle, and just a bit of salsiccia. Yummy.
~rowena~ | 10.16.06 - 3:18 pm

I can see how they look like pot-stickers but my first thought was Pierogi! Then I got a huge craving. Will have to check out the sealing techniques on the link.
Susan in Italy | Homepage | 10.11.06 - 3:20 pm

I'm still puzzled - but I don't know enough Italian to make sense of those directions. The seal sort of looks like a braid. It really does look like you have the technique down, just on a little bigger scale. Anyhoo... they sound delicious! I'm willing to lend my services if you need help eating all those attempts at perfection!
Cathy | Homepage | 10.11.06 - 2:26 am

Wow, their 'closures' make them look like stalks of wheat when they're in the sauce, non e' vero?
Antonella | 10.11.06 - 1:51 am

Edit: After checking out the helpful link suggested by MS, I tried my hand again at making these. The image that I've uploaded here shows the small progress that I've made. Still needs some work but practice makes perfect!
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MS, I checked out the link...thanks for the tip! A couple of the photos were too difficult to make out the details but you can bet that I'll be trying this again. These are indeed tasty. If not for the pinched edge thing I'd never have found out.
~rowena~ | 10.10.06 - 5:00 pm

Yeah, yours look more like potstickers. Tasty little things, aren't they? No gadget needed. This site shows how the dough is pinched:
www.kucinare.it/user/ricetta.aspx?idricetta=290
Regards,
MS | 10.10.06 - 4:19 pm

These remind me of gyoza (potstickers). The crimping technique looks like they use a gadget of sorts. Yours still looks good.
Kat | Homepage | 10.10.06 - 12:10 pm

Sagra della Castagna

Erve, Italy (Lecco) — Always the 2nd Sunday of October. Thank goodness for tradition. And also for a nice lady whose word I should have taken as absolute oath when she told us that the chestnut roast in her village - La Castagnata - has been held each year since she was a little girl. Nevermind that the billboard announcements were a week late. Tradition cannot be broken, this is Italy! And this was another good year for chestnuts because the feast this afternoon was just that, a FEAST. I liked that the castagnata commenced at 12 noon as it gave the opportunity to better appreciate all that was going on; the enticing aroma and popping sounds of the roasting nuts, the bright sun beating hot on your head that, although there was a slight nip in the air, you would be fool not to remove your sweater. We might go back this evening for dinner and vin brulé, which is red wine flavored with spices. Next Sunday if we're feeling up to it, there are 4 sagras to choose from. Which should it be? More chestnuts, apples, onions, or perhaps cheese?

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Saved comment(s)

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I could just jump in and eat that polenta and roasted meats. And those chestnuts! Roasted chestnuts and a glass of milk, what could be better?
Antonella | 10.10.06 - 8:45 am

What fun you must be having in Italy...the men in the picture look like they are enjoying a great day, too. Stick to the tradtions....cheese sounds good for next week!
Jann Mumford | Homepage | 10.10.06 - 5:54 am

It is a real treat to be able to follow you in this Italian food tradition. I love it!
Bea at La Tartine Gourmande | Homepage | 10.09.06 - 1:04 pm

It is my dream to be in Italy to witness a castagnata... or even better to pick chestnuts!
Ivonne | Homepage | 10.09.06 - 6:37 am

What a great festival! I think I would go for the cheese festival next.
Kat | Homepage | 10.09.06 - 4:25 am

This is how I love to view delicious food... AND it's calorie free this way!! Gosh, that really looks so tasty. Now if someone would only come up with smell-a-vision. Then it would truly be a feast for the senses and not for the hips! LOL! Of course there's nothin' like the real thing...lucky you!!
Liz | Homepage | 10.09.06 - 1:38 am

Wow, that is a feast! Looks delicious and like lots of fun!
Cathy | Homepage | 10.08.06 - 8:31 pm

Rowena, You're truly blessed to be living there and taking advantage of the wonderful harvest!
Stephen Newton | Homepage | 10.08.06 - 5:25 pm

A fish called Triglia

Thursday is "Fish Day", the one day out of the week that I look forward to with great anticipation because it's when we go to inspect the newly arrived fresh catch at our favorite fishmonger. I've raved about this place before in a post on tartufo di mare (aka Warty Venus). As to WHY more varieties of seafood are made available on Thursdays, my husband speculates that there are [still] die-hard Catholics in this country who simply must eat fish on Friday, so it would make good business sense to attract customers a day in advance, no matter what religious observance of the year it may be. Whether this is true or not, the parking lot proves that we're not the only ones who gots-to-have-their-fishies.

The brightly colored triglia di scoglio in the above pic is family to the MULLIDAE species of goatfish/red mullet. They go by many other names depending on which country you're in, but I noted the that these in particular were hauled from Tyrrhenian waters of the Mediterranean sea. Looking at them reminded me a lot of the islands, since they closely resemble the hawaiian goatfish or weke ula. Great-tasting fish, and again, recalls the days when gal pals and I swam out in deep openings among the reef to lay gill nets with my dad. Sighting a whole goatfish ensnared in the woven mesh was equivalent to a big score! Moray eels and other predators ravaged the helpless things during the course of the night.

I hope the girls never see this, I'll be fried fish — that's me with the blue swim mask

As far as I can remember, the most common method of cooking was either in soups or wrapped in ti leaves with green onions and ginger root before steaming. In Italy there is triglia alla livornese (livornese-style from Tuscany), something that all sharp cooks should know. I've been wanting to prepare triglia in different ways other than letting it sizzle on a grill, parrillada-style [see link] and came across a couple of ideas after reading up on mediterranean seafood cuisine. One idea is this Red Mullet Baked in Grape Leaves from Greece. It was so easy to put together and went well with a tabbouleh salad. I suppose in the end, the simplest method wins out as I'm still wrapping fish in leaves.

Siempre me quedará

There are several songs on Radio Monte Carlo's playlist that I've taken a keen liking to, one of which is Siempre me quedará by Bebe. I just wish I'd paid more attention in spanish class because the translation on Babelfish makes no sense. Anyway... I've got "Spain-on-the-brain" and am looking for ways to use garlic and/or chocolate in recipes from that country. Olé!

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Saved comment(s)

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Thanks to Madam Chow's translation, perhaps I can shed some light on the meaning of this song.

Siempre Me Quedara
I will always have with me (I will always remember)

Cómo decir que me parte en mil
las esquinitas de mis huesos,
que han caido los esquemas de mi vida
ahora que todo era perfecto.
Y algo mas que eso,
me sorbiste el seso y me decian del peso
de este cuerpecito mio
que se ha convertio en rio.
de este cuerpecito mio
que se ha convertio en rio.

How to explain that my bones are shattered,
that the scenes of my life have fallen apart,
now that everything was perfect.
And more than that,
I was crazy about you,
and the weight of my body has changed into a river,
the weight of my body has changed into a river

Me cuesta abrir los ojos
y lo hago poco a poco,
no sea que aun te encuentre cerca.
Me guardo tu recuerdo
como el mejor secreto,
que dulce fue tenerte dentro.

I struggle to open my eyes,
and I do it bit by bit,
hoping to find you near.
I guard your memory,
like a precious secret,
how sweet it was to have you within

Hay un trozo de luz
en esta oscuridad
para prestarme calma.
El tiempo todo calma,
la tempestad y la calma,
el tiempo todo calma,
la tempestad y la calma.

There is a treasure trove of light
in this darkness
to give me comfort.
Time heals all wounds,
the storm and the calm
Time heals all wounds,
the storm and the calm

Siempre me quedara
la voz suave del mar,
volver a respirar la lluvia que caera
sobre este cuerpo y mojara
la flor que crece en mi,
y volver a reir
y cada dia un instante volver a pensar en ti.

I will always remember
the soft voice of the ocean,
I will breathe in once again the soft rain that will fall
on this body, and will moisten the flower that grows in me.
I will laugh again
and each day, for an instant, I will remember you

En la voz suave del mar,
en volver a respirar la lluvia que caera
sobre este cuerpo y mojara
la flor que crece en mi,
y volver a reir
y cada dia un instante volver a pensar en ti.

Repeat previous verses.
~rowena~ | 10.10.07

Oh, this is so sad! I just went to letras de canciones.org and found the words to Siempre me quedara' and found that it's a very sad song sung from the perspective of a woman who has just lost a baby and sings an ode of loss to that baby.
Susan in Italy | Homepage | 10.03.06 - 2:38 pm

Bebe is a recent discovery for me too. She really rocks! Don't know offhand any Spanish (Castillian) dishes with chocolate and garlic but you can always head to Mexico for black Oaxacan mole that contains chocolate, garlic, onions, dried peppers, fruit, sesame seeds, almonds, tomatillos.....
Susan in Italy | Homepage | 10.03.06 - 2:30 pm