
If Easter's extravagant Sunday brunch proved to be more than your fill of succulent lamb, hot cross buns, and eggs n' things, then here is a truly humble dish that I discovered while in the Trentino region this past weekend. There's nothing more adventurous than sampling the piatti tipici, or typical plates of a given area, and I took an immediate liking to these capùc (kah-POOCH) on the first bite. What are they? A combination of bread and other ingredients wrapped in grape leaves, simmered in liquid until plump and tender. Essentially, turkey stuffing in a tiny package.
Between the two restaurants where I ordered capùc, the 1st used older, larger grape leaves to enclose the filling. I was instructed to eat only the inside as the leaves were tough and flavorless. The 2nd restaurant made their version a little differently — small breadballs came wrapped in swiss chard tops making everything edible. In terms of authenticity, grape leaves are fundamental to this dish, but when it isn't grape season? "That's why we used swiss chard," explained the proprietor. Hurray for innovative chefs!
Italian grandmas do it best...
I found a great illustrated site on the making of capuss (so-called in that particular town) with a corresponding ingredient list that reads like an inventory of nonna's meager pantry:
- stale bread
- grana cheese
- butter
- eggs
- herbs and swiss chard
- parsley
- golden raisins
- garlic
- salt and pepper
Apart from the obvious lack of exact amounts, no detailed instructions were given on how to prepare the stale bread. It just says "prepare a beautiful mixture working with the hands..." — For cooks who prefer the precision of measurements, here's how I winged it.
2 thick slices of stale country-style bread
1/4 teaspoon dried marjoram
1/4 teaspoon tried thyme
1/4 cup finely chopped italian parsley
1 large egg
2 tablespoons (2 ounces or 50 grams) golden raisins
Scant 1 cup (2½ ounces or 75 grams) grana cheese, finely grated
2 ounces butter
1 clove garlic, minced
Salt and pepper
12 large grape leaves, or 24 small
Note: The grape leaves that I used were the ones typically called for when making greek dolmades. You can easily substitute this with swiss chard.
Briefly soak the bread in a bowl of water to soften. Remove and squeeze out excess liquid. Break into small pieces (as if making stuffing) and mix together with the dried marjoram and thyme, the fresh parsley, the egg, raisins and cheese. Lightly salt and pepper to taste.
Melt the butter in a large pan and stir in the minced garlic until fragrant but not browned. Stir in the bread/herb mix, adding water if necessary should the filling be too dry. It shouldn't be too wet as to make it difficult to hold its shape. Remove from heat to cool.
Divide the filling into 12 portions, forming rectangular shapes. Position in the center of and wrap in grape leaves (using 2 leaves if working with small ones), folding up the bottom, sides, and top in that order. Secure with kitchen twine. In a deep pot bring 2 cups of water to a boil, lightly salt to taste and add the bundles. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook, covered, for about 30 minutes. Drain and allow to cool.
To serve: Capùc (or Capùss or Caponec) immediately while they're still hot with olive oil or melted butter, but they also make a great snack when cooled. Since I used grape leaves that were packed in brine, it did affect the overall flavor somewhat and I ended up discarding the leaves. The authentic style is to present the capuc intact so that diners unwrap the parcels for themselves. Drizzle with a good quality olive oil if desired. Makes 4 appetizer portions or a compulsive afternoon snack.
"We assure you that they are very appetizing and that also strangers, even if remaining a little perplexed in the beginning at their appearance, perhaps not so inviting, are almost always won over." - Translated from capuss webpage.
Yum, they sound fantastic! You know, I've never tried a grape leave, but I love the sounds of that filling (especially with some raisins in it) wrapped in chard. Must try!
Cathy | Homepage | 04.13.07 - 6:07 am
What an artful presentation! I can hardly wait to try out these devine little packages. They look so delicious. And in the summer I always have fresh chard that I'm trying to creatively use. Thanks.
Carla | Homepage | 04.12.07 - 5:07 pm
Hey Rowena, I'm new to the blog thing and just found out how to track your comments on my site from a long time ago... anyways, living in Italy sounds so fabulous and your pix are gorgeous. Lots to read about too, so I'm looking forward to reading!
Sandy | Homepage | 04.12.07 - 5:06 pm
This is such a gorgeous blog! Positively dreamy pictures too! You totally have a new reader!
home cook | Homepage | 04.11.07 - 10:09 pm
Thanks for sharing this recipe! I've never seen anything like this before and can't wait to try it! It made me think of my Italian grandmother's stuffing which I crave.
Janie | 04.11.07 - 4:41 pm
This looks absolutely divine. I just love how beautifully you present your dishes. Hope you had a fabulous Easter. Aloha!
Lettie | 04.11.07 - 5:43 am