Slow Food Cheese Fair in Piemonte

Parmigiano, gorgonzola, pecorino, chevre, cheddar — a dream come true for a dog in the middle of... cheeseland. I didn't purposely plan on featuring the Madster two times in a row but this photo just begs to be posted because there were a LOT of canine friends there.

I've drafted this post over and over, trying to refrain from sounding as if I'm glossing over the details but honestly, the cheese fair was such an overwhelming experience that all I feel privileged to share are a few photos taken on our visit. This will go under 100 ways to celebrate Italy although unlike the sagras listed, the fair involves elements on a much grander scale. It was like hitting upon the international mother lode — carefully stacked mounds, numerous racks, and endless displays. Absolute heaven for anyone with a strong passion for all things - cheese. And quite obviously, there exists a great following. In comparison with the 2003 Cheese Fair, public interest and the program itself has grown impressively within the past four years. Cheese tastings, wine pairings, exhibitions, street food, artisan beers...is it any surprise that we plan to go again next year? The only reservation I have regarding events of this magnitude is not having enough time to appreciate everything. A single day was too brief.

The most pleasant surprise was being able to meet Marla and Fabrizio of Bella Baita View although here again, there was only time for a quick exchange. Next year, we're hoping to stay for a week.

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Saved comment(s)

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Looks marvelous! I love your photos. I wish we had fairs like that around here. We've got some other fairs, but none that feature cheese :-(
Carla | Homepage | 10.01.07 - 3:22 am

Your cheese fairs sound much more friendly that the ones we have here. These are pretty much a feeding frenzy. On a different note, I start a new job tomorrow and now I rep even MORE cheese lines. I am so excited!
Carla | Homepage | 10.01.07 - 2:10 am

Beautiful pictures and it sounds like it must have been wonderful! Speaking of cheese, I wonder if when you were in Cefalu if you saw the cheeses (provolone, I think - like your last photo) that were in all sorts of shapes. We saw them hanging in one shop window there which was closed unfortunately, so we struggled to get decent photos. I think there were various kinds of animals, but I have fuzzy photos of very intricate horses where even the harnesses are made of cheese!
Cathy | Homepage | 09.30.07 - 5:34 pm

Oh my, a cheese fair; I would be in heaven! Your photos of the different kinds of cheeses are just wonderful. Makes my mouth water. I wish I could try them!
Christa | Homepage | 09.30.07 - 3:59 pm

Oh man, talk about sensory overload, hehe! I love the shot of the cheese with the heart shape cut out in the middle;...now that's something you don't often see in the States! Regarding your previous post on the abbracci cookies: they triggered my craving for a nyc black & white cookie -- not exactly the same, but I think it was the mix of black and white colors I craved, hehe :-)
Kathy | Homepage | 09.30.07 - 4:43 am

Rowena: You take such glorious close ups, I'm curious what kind of camera you have that allows your imagination to present such great images. Mahalo,
Sharon Paley | Homepage | 09.30.07 - 2:20 am

Yes those pictures are lovely, sounds like you were in heaven! How did your little Maddie like all of the pungent smells I wonder? And about that big pink bunny, what is the story about that? Very cute picture of Maddie laying on it btw!
Sandy | Homepage | 09.30.07 - 12:08 am

The cheese fair sounds fantastic! I love your photos and the way the cheeses are presented in different wrappings. Here in Upstate NY, we have the garlic festival next week. I love these types of events.
Maryann | Homepage | 09.29.07 - 4:50 pm

That looks amazing and completely international too. All that fresh parmigiano reggiano - I'm so envious, we rely on imported vacuum packed stuff here and it is nothing like as good.
Kit | Homepage | 09.29.07 - 2:49 pm

Did you say cheese? I also love cheese (looks like Madie is just drooling over the great odors floating in the air!). I see that some cheese from Provence also made it over. I never ate that one. Thats great stuff; I understand why you want to return!
barbara | Homepage | 09.29.07 - 1:50 pm

About that Big Pink Bunny...

We went, we saw, and we even walked all over and around it but what can I say? Two years exposed to the elements would do anybunny bad. It's the sort of thing where you think to yourself, "Uhm, ok. Well, that was....fun." And then turn to your spouse, trading smiles which ultimately say, "We came all the way over here to see a big friggin' pink bunny rabbit and....hahahaha!"

Bales of hay served as the "stuffing" which made it tricky to navigate at times; one false step and you'll end up stumbling into the rabbit hole, oops, from an empty pocket of nothing. The scariest has got to be the enormous, gaping hole-of-a-mouth; pardon the crude description but Maddie absolutely refused to go anywhere near it. We also discovered that "spilled guts" were constructed as part of the creation. Freakishly disgusting in a way, but morbidly fascinating at the same time. I repeat, "We came all the way over here to see a big friggin' bunny rabbit and....hahahaha!" I like to think that Maddie had the most fun of all as she didn't so much as give her stuffed rabbit a sniff. Rather instead, in the photo below she was most likely looking off in the distance at that big pink bunny that she had just pee'd on... Can't believe I made a typo in the caption!

Running down one of the bunny arms...


Taking a break on the rather collapsed belly (a bit of extra red tone for effect!)


Weed patches have already established themselves on one of the legs; intestines to the left


The mouth: take a look at the 1st image on this site and it almost screams Edvard Munch

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Oh my goodness, you weren't kidding! That *is* a big bunny! So it's been out there for 2 years? wooooow... where do they come up with this?
Farfallina... | Homepage | 09.29.07 - 9:08 am

But I'm so glad you DID go! I'll never get to go, but now I've had an up-close look at the pink guy - fascinating!
Cathy | Homepage | 09.29.07 - 1:11 am

It's so odd, yet so cool. I had to read up on it haha. The best thing is little Maddie with her own stuffed pink bunny.
Maryann | Homepage | 09.28.07 - 3:08 pm

Though it was a bit disappointing, at least you guys were able to check it out. I still think it looked cool from above!
Kat | Homepage | 09.28.07 - 2:12 pm

Abbracci cookies

The term abbracci is plural (sing. abbraccio) for embrace or hug but as it's been over a half month since International Hug Day (September 10th), I'll count this as a very early entry for next year's National Hugging Day on January 21st. The truth is, I knew nothing of the reserved date for worldwide squeezing and these cookies were actually done on a whim thanks to italian food manufacturer Barilla. On their Mulino Bianco cookie line, the recipe for these Abbracci is printed right onto the packaging itself. "Also you can make them" they say preceding the short ingredient list. Wheeee! Either the company has no qualms about revealing secret recipes or they are inexplicably eager to encourage italian casalinghe to spend more time using the oven. The ready-to-eat cookies are good, but I must say that the homebaked ones are way better. My husband took some to work and claims that they disappeared out of his hands. (And to think that I was competing with cannoli brought in by one of the sicilians.)

I've stuck with the original recipe as much as possible although metric amounts have been converted for the american kitchen. Given humidity and altitude factors, please adjust where necessary. The butter should be softened to room temp in order to mix properly.

Abbracci

For the white part: 1 stick (4 oz.) butter, scant ½ cup granulated sugar, 3 tablespoons cream, 1 tablespoon honey*, 1 and 3/4 cup all-purpose flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder, pinch of salt. *An extra 2 tablespoons of sugar may be substituted for the honey.

For the dark part: 1 stick (4 oz.) butter, ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, 1 large egg, 1 and 3/4 cup all-purpose flour, 4 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder, 1 teaspoon baking powder, pinch of salt.

Mixing instructions for both doughs: Beat together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the liquid ingredients and combine well. Sift dry ingredients together and stir into the creamed mixture to form a smooth, firm dough. The dough should not be overly stiff (it will crack) or too soft and sticky (it will spread too much during baking). Refrigerate doughs for a few minutes if your kitchen is overly warm. If necessary, add small amounts of flour or milk to firm up/soften the cookie dough.

Forming, shaping, and baking: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. I was able to yield a total of 3 dozen cookies with a little chocolate dough left over for double-chocolate hugs! For each of the doughs, form orbs the size of a macadamia nut or large Bing cherry. Working with one flavor at a time, roll the dough balls into approximately 2½-inch logs. To shape, simply attach each end by overlapping one color over the other, alternating each end: white over brown at one end and brown over white at the other. [See photo above] It isn't necessary to firmly press the ends to seal as they will expand and "hug" during the baking process.


On a cookie sheet lined with baking parchment, set the cookies in rows spaced 3 inches apart. Place in the oven and bake for 15-18 minutes until golden brown around the edges, rotating cookie sheet halfway through baking time. They will be slightly soft just out of the oven but will firm up when completely cool. Store in an airtight container and enjoy a hug (or more) each day. Freezes well.

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Saved comment(s)

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I will add these to my christmas cookie list as well...thank you! Now we to be able to download tastes and smells. I'm sure that isn't to far into the future.
Carla | Homepage | 09.28.07 - 4:31 am

Wow, we sell these in our shop and have them regularly for breakfast with our cappucino. So cool to see home-made version. They look even better :-)
lorraine@italianfoodies | Homepage | 09.27.07 - 9:22 pm

Yummy! I would have easily been baking off a lot of cookies (I love sweets), but I have a diabetic husband. I have to be careful with sugar, and only occasionally bake pies. I'm going to explore diabetic recipes soon for a project I have in mind. But, Shhh! The wraps are on...
barbara | Homepage | 09.27.07 - 8:52 am

I love the shape and I'll bet they're delicious - I know Denny would approve :-) Thanks for the recipe and showing how it's done!
Cathy | Homepage | 09.27.07 - 6:14 am

Holy cow, I'm so glad I found your blog. I'm actually looking at posts you made last year, but I love it just the same. I was at my boyfriend's popo's house in Liliha and we were wondering what could possibly be done with those sour red cherries. Who would've thunk you could actually make a pie out it.

Yesterday was Chinese moon festival. Popo had us all make moon cakes in preparation of yesterday's celebration. She has this vine-thing growing in her yard that she used as an ingredient in one of her fillings. She called it "Loh-ip." I am trying to figure out what the heck it is. The closes thing I could find was "cinnamon vine," but can't find a correlation to the Loh-ip name. Any ideas?

Thanks for the awesome recipes!
Jo | Homepage | 09.27.07 - 5:32 am

Wow ~ Barilla is really generous by giving away their recipe. Perhaps just like you said, they want to encourage italians to cook more. Your abbracci cookies looks good. Have you had a hug today? hehe
piccola | 09.27.07 - 4:49 am

I had no idea that Barilla made cookies. Never saw them here in the states. I like these cookies. Must remember to mark them to bake at Christmas for the cookie trays. Nice to see you back online, Rowena :-)
Maryann | Homepage | 09.26.07 - 4:42 pm

I never knew about this special day! Every day should be hugging day -- these cookies look wonderful too. Will have to give it a shot. Thanks for the recipe.
Kat | Homepage | 09.26.07 - 2:56 pm

I have a bag of those in my pantry! but they are not home made. hehe i will have to try these - thanks for the recipe. and welcome back =)
stacy | Homepage | 09.26.07 - 2:48 pm

Feel Good

And what's the point of eating abbracci cookies without some good music to groove by? Pour me a glass of milk...

Technical Difficulties Resolved

If we had only heeded the warning signs with as much prudence like we do with the car, the inconvenience of being without a computer might have been less of a wait. Are we all that dependent on the damn thing? The old clunker went kaput on the 14th, but thanks to my fab, fab neighbor who is a whiz at these things, we arrived home to a now super-powered pc! I suppose not such a long delay, all things considered. As mentioned previously, we split to investigate the Big Pink Bunny and also to meet Pasticciera of Bella Baita View at the cheese fair in Bra. It was a LOT of fun and the scoop on both are in the works, but first, a little cookie recipe is up next because it's been in draft status for awhile.

It was bound to happen eventually. While our burned-out pc gets outfitted with a new set of parts, we'll be in Piemonte checking out the cheese fair in Bra and also the Big Pink Bunny that I had posted on a few weeks back. Hope 2 be online within a week.

Hiking in Valsassina: Maddie the Alpine westie?

If you look closely in the background to the left of Maddie, you'll see a rock formation with what appears to be a hole in the center. This is the Porta di Prada, the door of Prada even if it doesn't have anything to do with the elite label in italian fashion. This beautiful work of nature and many a lofty view is what makes the trek to Rifugio Bietti (and others further on) a popular itinerary for outdoor enthusiasts like us. The panorama is absolutely breathtaking at the height of 1719+ meters (5586+ feet), and although those figures may seem daunting to the unmotivated, the easy trail is acceptable for all ages and begins from an altitude of around 4715 feet. If I had to name one excursion for anyone planning a hiking vacation in the northern lakes region, this one is it. At a mere 3-3½ hours roundtrip, it's a piece of cake.

We completed this hike last Sunday after a month off due to Sicily & elsewhere and let me tell you, my body hurt like HECK the next morning. Feel the burn baby! So good to be back in contact with nature and we 3 plan on getting out more, weather permitting. For readers new or unfamiliar with any of my hiking posts, I can't say enough on how fantastic of an area Como/Lecco is in regards to the amount of itineraries. Couple that with a sagra or two and you're in for a memorable experience in this part of Italy.

Porta di Prada - taken in the morning coming from the starting end of the trail...


and on the way back in the afternoon.

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Saved comment(s)

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Rowena, great picture of Maddie! This really looks like a fabulous hike. We recently went hiking as well, I'll be posting about it in the next day or so. I'll be filing this hike information away for the day we go to Lucca. (Mostly in my dreams!)
emily | Homepage | 09.19.07 - 12:06 am

That picture of Maddie is fabulous! Very cute. I need to make note of this hike. The scenery is stunning.
Carla | Homepage | 09.18.07 - 7:30 am

Does Maddie tolerate strangers? I ask because I just want to pick her up and squeeze her, she is so cute!
Carla | Homepage | 09.16.07 - 5:39 pm

Oh, I am sooooo jealous (even about the burning limbs.) That scenery is unbelievable. Maddie's portrait is lovely. Love the hiking posts
Jeni | Homepage | 09.15.07 - 10:14 pm

Oh I think we need to follow in some of your footsteps. Stunning scenery once again and I love Maddie the adventure dog.
Pasticciera | Homepage | 09.15.07 - 6:54 pm

Ohhh hehehe, Maddie must be in such good shape - the most fit dog on the planet! I think she gets more exercise than me!
Kathy | Homepage | 09.15.07 - 4:57 am

Hi Rowena! I've been enjoying your blog for QUITE a while! This entry finally inspired me to leave you a comment, as I've been thinking what a fine day it is today for a hike, and imagining where I would go if I could. Then I just happened to visit your blog, and there it was! What a great place! Thanks so much for sharing it!
Liz P | Homepage | 09.14.07 - 8:28 pm

Gorgeous scenery but the up-close portrait of Maddie made my morning.
casey | Homepage | 09.14.07 - 7:34 pm

What a great hike! Love the porta di prada, beautiful! Maddie is cute as ever.
Kat | Homepage | 09.14.07 - 3:31 pm

Such stunning pictures and breathtaking views. I can see why you love it there. Maddie looks to be having a great time too.
Kit | Homepage | 09.14.07 - 2:43 pm

Fiera del Cacio: Il cacio al fuso

Pienza (Toscana) - In challenges requiring precision and deft skill, it could be said that all it takes is a flick of the wrist, yet watching the participants in this engaging cacio-hurling contest, I think it would be safe to say that it's also worth knowing your cheese?

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On a weekend escape nearly 2 weeks ago, the irresistible draw of pecorino (make that Pienza pecorino from Tuscany) made the list of sagra must-attends with the Fiera del Cacio *the event is held on the 1st Sunday of Sept*. But the real attraction here is a traditional game of rolling-a-round-of-cacio-toward-the-spindle. The game is simple enough: men at one end, spindle at the other. Points are tallied according to where the cacio landed. This was SO MUCH FUN! I believe it even garnered extra points if the round fell flat instead of remaining on edge. Not as crazy as the frog races earlier this year, but getting up close to the partitioned playing area was impossible. All of the elder players (and here I really should use the descriptive phrase more experienced!) were a thrill to watch as they just seemed to have that added flair honed into their strategy. Talk about smooth moves!

Il vero pecorino si fa a Pienza

The saying is...the true pecorino is made in Pienza and as you would expect, we couldn't leave without purchasing some to take home. All along the main street and in between the alleys branching off, numerous stands of pungent pecorino filled our nostrils, making it a paradise for Maddie our cheese-greedy westie (she was furtively licking up fallen bits from the ground). Thick strands of pici pasta, chickpea flour, thin anise-flavored wafers called brigidini, salumi, olive oils, even a cart selling nutella-filled crepes hot off the griddle...all of the things that make Italy such a divine place for the senses were present to amplify the event. My guess as to what becomes of the cacio after the game was echoed in snippets of joking conversation throughout the crowd. Hehe...who knows? Cheese anyone?

Edit:
Ok pecorino cheese fans, your comments have prompted me to seek out the origins to this game and the following is a partial translation from Il cacio al fuso. If you take a peek at the page, you'll see that the game took on a different look several years ago!

Regarding the pecorino itself:

The fact that it pleased Carlo Magno is nothing exceptional (even emperors have their tastes); instead it is extraordinary that an episode of hardly any relevance is passed on for over a millennium. "Therefore," conclude the citizens of Pienza, "there should be some truth to it."

The facts:
In the spring of ‘800, Carlo Magno travels down the peninsola to Rome in order to be crowned Imperator Augustus by Pope Leone III, emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. During a break at Corsignano (to be later transformed into what is now Pienza) he decides to accept the offer of hospitality and something to eat from the head monk of a nearby monastery. But the meal is moderate -- nothing more than some slices of bread and the local cheese.

The monk, awaiting severe reprimand from not being able to present foods more consistent with the nobility of the guest, received instead with surprise and satisfaction, compliments from Carlo for that pecorino cheese of such flavor. Better yet, he asked to take some with him for the trip.
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In Pienza they voluntarily explain the reasons for which their cheese is so good: because the sheep that graze in the fields of the hills surrounding the city dine on 3 types of herbs - mentastro, barbabecco and ascenzio - which only here they find mixed in the correct proportions. Given these introductions no wonder the pecorino of Pienza is surrounded with a sort of cult and that in its honor, a celebration has been organized for centuries. There is no way of knowing how and when the game was born. What we actually see is perhaps the fruit of progressive elaborations occurring within the course of centuries. And it's nice to think that the game of the Cacio al Fuso was born in the grand courtyard of some farmstead set in one of the thousands of folds of those sweet hills.
~rowena~

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Saved comment(s)

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Love it! I had heard about this festival, but never seen images, and now I'm blown away. What a strange, very fun, tradition. Do you know how cheese tossing got started?
Christina | Homepage | 09.14.07 - 2:16 am

I agree with Kit's comment below, your excellent images seem to transport me! I have to admit that I've visited your site several times since yesterday just to see the images; plus, this is my second reading of this post. Each time I thought I could smell the cheese and hear the cheers. Just fabulous, thanks so much for sharing!! I want to go next year!
Emily | Homepage | 09.14.07 - 12:38 am

Such great pictures, it felt like I was there. In all my visits to Pienza I was never there for the Sagra, so I really enjoyed reading about it. And those shots of pecorino are just exactly what I was looking for for my new travel blog.
Kit | Homepage | 09.13.07 - 4:14 pm

Hi Rowena,
Well, that must be a first time I see a game played with a wheel of cheese! Leave it to Rowena to share the best Italian festivals! I LOVE cheese... I see that Maddie also enjoys a good piece of cheese. The calcium in it is good for her bones! You take care :-)
barbara | Homepage | 09.13.07 - 9:03 am

Ehi! Complimenti per il blog..e buon soggiorno in Italia!!
Chiara | Homepage | 09.13.07 - 8:55 am

Grazie per i complimenti Chiara...e..ihihih...devo ancora rinnovare il mio permesso di soggiorno che sara' scaduto in 3 giorni!
~rowena~ | 09.13.07 - 4:32 pm

So you are in Tuscany and you don't even ask me if we could see each other somewhere? Or maybe I am pretending too much here but I would love to meet up one day! Maybe we should try to organize a meeting for English language food bloggers somewhere? Don't you think that could be fun?
ilva | Homepage | 09.13.07 - 7:45 am

I thought that was cheese, but kind of couldn't believe it. Wonder who thought up that game :-) We visited Pienza on our trip to Tuscany several years ago and I remember the cheese. Up until then I'd thought of Pecorino as a hard cheese, so my first taste of a young Pecorino was quite a surprise. Glad you didn't miss out on the food at this sagra!
Cathy | Homepage | 09.13.07 - 4:39 am

I would probably eat my cheese before I got a chance to roll it! hee hee Wonderful sagra!
Kat | Homepage | 09.12.07 - 2:24 pm

Those cheese looks godly.
piccola | 09.12.07 - 10:04 am

Dining & shopping in Castelbuono

This is such a small list of suggestions but well-deserving of a quick mention for anyone planning a stop in the town of Castelbuono in the Parco delle Madonie.
Nangalarruni - Tucked away in a narrow alley just off of Piazza Margherita, this trattoria has all of the elements that make dining a pleasant experience. The menu features traditional sicilian/madonite cuisine based on seasonal ingredients. Ample tasting menu for 30 euros (4 antipasti, 2 first plates, 1 second and dessert). Rated one of the 15 best trattorie in Gambero Rosso 2007. Great selection of sicilian wines.
Desideri Enogastronomoci - The definite gourmet shop for goodies to pick up for a picnic or to take home. Sicilian wines, in particular, Nero d'Avola, olive oil, pecorino cheese, salumi, various nut pestos, quality fruit preserves and honeys, capers from the island of Pantelleria, pistacchio from Bronte, chocolate bars from DonnaElvira in Modica...even a small offering of ceramics in the event that you might have forgotten to add it to the shopping list. A very modest shop in size but easy to get carried away in here.

Gelso (mulberry) and chocolate granita plus a side of buttery cookies -- 4 euros.

Can't go without mentioning the choice spots for sicilian sweets and treats! As mentioned in a previous post, Fiasconaro right there on Piazza Margherita is thee place for granita, gelato-stuffed sweet rolls, and cassata. Cin Cin Bar across the way makes yummy gelato and sorbets, tiny pastries, and serves easy meals for a snack/lite lunch. Bar Cammarata just a short walk down the main street makes those fabulous cannoli filled on order but they, like all of the great pastry shops in Sicily, serve granita as well.

Venturing out of Castelbuono but still within the Parco delle Madonie, we came across two delicious discoveries side-by-side in the old bourg of Polizzi Generosa. The photo at right is of a couple of slices of sfoglio - a traditional dessert treat that Pasticceria Al Castello is famous for. The "cheesecake" in its entire form is lovely to behold. Rich, heavy and begging to be relished with a cup of tea, the original (top slice) includes tuma, a type of fresh sheep cheese from the area, sugar, chocolate, eggs whites and cinnamon in the center. A short pastry crust makes up the rest. The bottom slice is a pistacchio flavor. I was more impressed by the original but if neither appeals, there was also a plain ricotta version. To the left of the pastry shop awaits the entrance to restaurant Ai Templari. Great food (I had the best beef carpaccio in my entire life), warm surroundings, and generous portions of pasta.

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ohhh... yum, yum and yum! You know I love travelling with Bob and Chuck, but they don't have the sweet-tooth I do, so we don't explore bakeries and such to the degree you do. I can't complain too much though, seeing as we had gelato almost every day!
Cathy | Homepage | 09.12.07 - 4:44 am

I've been doing water aerobics, but I just discovered where I gained 4 pounds...it's from reading your blog. dang it!
Carla | Homepage | 09.12.07 - 3:58 am

Rowena all your lovely posts are making me miss Italy so much. We haven't been in a year whereas we normally go 2 or 3 times, having withdrawal at the moment. I love those pastries Maryann mentioned too, my Mil just brought some back on the plane from the airport in Rome and they tasted perfect!!
Lorraine@italianfoodies | Homepage | 09.11.07 - 9:21 pm

Rowena, I like that you waited until the last sentence to tell us you ate something beside dessert on this trip of yours. It's good to have a little beef with your desserts haha. It all looks so good though. I love Italian pastry shops. My favorite pastry is (now don't laugh because I don't know how to spell it) sviadelle. You know... the clam-shaped flaky one that goes round and round?
Maryann | Homepage | 09.11.07 - 10:51 am

Ballo della cordella sull'Aia

Petralia Soprana (Sicilia) - One of the highlights of our stay in Sicily was this very colorful International Festival of Folklore held in Raffo (a small fraction of Petraia Soprana in the Parco delle Madonie). Organized in conjunction with the Sagra del salgemma, a celebration of the salt crystal from the salt mines in Raffo, the event hosted several nationalities in an evening of traditional song and dance. Groups from Mexico, Slovenia, Poland and Venezuela joined in with representatives from Calabria and Sicily (particularly from the Madonie area) for a multi-ethnical exchange of cultures. The Ballo della cordella sull'Aia (Dance of the ribbons on the threshing floor), performed by the sicilian dancers below, instantly reminded me of the Maypole dances for spring. The difference here is that the roots of this traditional dance stem from ties to Cerere (Ceres), goddess of agriculture and abundance, in gratitude for the harvest at year's end. This was really fun to watch, the enthusiasm of the dancers showing in every step and facial expression. It was difficult to get good shots from where we stood but I was so happy to get the one of the little girl above in mid-hop. Being the youngest in the group, it ended in a hilarious moment when the emcee asked her if the older kids were the better dancers. 'No' she replied, because the older kids are always "distracted" by their girlfriend or boyfriend!

To further authenticate this ribbon dance, a small band of folk musicians set the gay and lively tempo, with one musical instrument in particular to catch my aural attention. The scacciapensieri logically translates to thoughts-chaser although it is known by many other names all over the world, namely the mouth or jaw harp. Thanks to Crocodile Dundee, I've always associated the harp with the australian outback even if my husband recalls that the scacciapensieri (SKAH-chah-pen-see-EHR-ree) has always been part of sicilian culture. Naturally I had to get one as a souvenir but it'll take awhile til I can manage a decent tune!

Italian link and .wav file of the scacciapensieri
Australian outback composition .mp3 file

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Saved comment(s)

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Hi Rowena, I loved seeing the photos! I believe that it's good to keep some traditions like dance, music, etc. I guess that you were not the only one in Hawaii to have had a Maypole at the May Day celebration! I don't remember doing that but it was quite impressive - bobbing up and down to form a sort of woven ribbon! Take care.
barbara | Homepage | 09.11.07 - 9:56 am

Wonderful, wonderful photos! Leave it to you to find an event like this even during your brief stay! Did you bring any salt home?
Cathy | Homepage | 09.11.07 - 5:31 am

I bought a mouth harp once. I got as far as boing boing boing and then gave up :-)
Maryann | Homepage | 09.11.07 - 3:35 am

I love her little gravity-defying hop!

To me, the sound of a jaw harp brings back the memory of a road trip with my brother. He bought a jaw harp at the Saint Louis arch and played it for three days in the car. Three days. Yes, a jaw harp for three days. In a car. It was a tough time in our relationship.
Christina | Homepage | 09.11.07 - 2:07 am

Yes the little hopping girl shot is perfect! What I love about these pictures (and since I have never ever been to europe) is that everyone is wearing cool outfits. Not junky cheap plastic looking things, but lovely authentic costumes. It's all so fascinating to see and read, I love the vicarious thrills I get reading your posts!
Sandy | Homepage | 09.10.07 - 7:09 pm

Love the costumes and the ribbons. These dancers remind me of ones we saw in Puglia last year. There too it was the youngest ones I loved watching.
casey | Homepage | 09.10.07 - 4:51 pm

Breakfast in Castelbuono

"Oh, man! I just GOTTA do this... a granita with whipped cream, brioche and gelato, two cassatine, and a crisp cannolo filled with sweetened, fresh ricotta "al momento". All within the scheme of half an hour so that I can brag about it on a postcard."

Obviously, sensible eating wasn't going to be part of the game plan on this particular day in Sicily. Bless my husband for putting up with my wild ideas — I still get a kick in recalling "the proposal" on one very hopelessly hot morning (90 degrees in the shade). Icy granita, soft brioche crammed with gelato, fondant-glazed mini cassata, cannoli...I was such a BAD girl! I believe that now, only after having visited here for a brief stay, am I able to comprehend the sicilian's predeliction for sweets. Can't say that I blame them; they do everything ...RIGHT! It is so very easy to get carried away if all of the above and then some rocks your sweet tooth. Zing! This, in my mind, is what you call "la dolce vita". Forget that overdone tuscan sun/Diane Lane meets italian playboy nonsense. If it weren't for the lack of a fresh ricotta delivery to the cannoli shop, I would have posted a 3rd photo and sealed my postcard to the neighbors with a powdered sugar kiss.

Latte di mandorle (almond milk granita)


Brioche filled with gelato, sicilian cassatine

Where to find all this: Fiasconaro. This is a first-rate pastry shop famous for their Easter and Xmas bakery goods. Located in the old center on piazza Margherita, it boasts a tempting assortment of granita choices but my favorite is gelso (mulberry). Do sit down in the square for service in a glass dish as shown instead of a plastic cup to go. Gelato selections for the "icecream sandwich" is a tougher call as there's the option of selecting 2 flavors. Signora, sei sicura? Solo uno? Yes, yes, only one flavor (because I see there that the vanilla is speckled with vanilla beans!).

Bar Cammarata, a few stores down leading away from the piazza, is where you indulge in these incredibly crisp and delicious cannoli which are filled with ricotta only after you place an order. The freshness of the ricotta is undeniable...it has a rough, almost curdled look even if it's the lightest of textures when it hits your palate. I've tried many of the miniature and larger ones from pastry shops/supermarket bakeries that taste like sugar, candied citron and cream cheese. Bleh! I've heard that there are enormous-sized cannoli elsewhere in Sicily, but the medium ones at Bar Cammarata are generous enough for one. No citron, no finely chopped pistacchio or chocolate, not overly sweet — just a dusting of confectioner's sugar that tickles your nostrils in a messy poof on the first mouthful.

Mini cassata cakes at Fiasconaro (one big bite and you're done)

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oh my.....those look so yummy! I know, it's a vast understatement but it'still true. Do you or will you partake of Sambuca? This is my favorite after dinner drink and one of the most dangerous for me.
Carla | Homepage | 09.09.07 - 4:45 pm

No fair! All I'm having for breakfast is leftover oatmeal that my kids left on the table.....i want brioche crammed with gelato!
Steamy Kitchen | Homepage | 09.09.07 - 3:24 pm

Hi Rowena!
I'm only now catching up with your blog and your travels to Sicily and it looks like you had a fabulous time. Just imagine, you get to go back next year for two more weddings. Can't beat that! The desserts that you photographed look outrageously delicious. Can't wait to sink my teeth into something like that brioche with gelato. I'm looking forward to actually tasting some of the foods you write about and photograph. It used to be only a dream, but soon it will be a reality. Can't wait. Take care!
Lettie | 09.09.07 - 8:16 am

Oh my gosh! That looks soooo good. Somehow the box mix chocolate cake I'm about to eat just doesn't look so good anymore. But seriously, those mini cassata cakes are making me crazy. Would it have killed you to photograph just one? Because shooting 16 in one pic is really cruel.
myra | Homepage | 09.09.07 - 7:12 am

I'm so envious! Everything looks delicious and I know Sicily was beautiful! You'll have to go back when you have more time and it's not so hot.
Cathy | Homepage | 09.09.07 - 6:00 am

Oh my! Was that breakfast or dessert? hehe...you have me droooooling, it's super hot in nyc today! It's a good thing we're off for gelato at Otto this evening!
Kathy | Homepage | 09.09.07 - 12:24 am

YUM, YUM AND YUM!! I adore Cannoli! I'm so jealous!!
Lorraine@italianfoodies | Homepage | 09.08.07 - 9:49 pm

You know, I've never had a granita but read so much about them. Perhaps it'll be a good way to use up some of my late summer fruits.
Scott at Realepicurean | Homepage | 09.08.07 - 8:15 pm

Ooo..fresh filled cannoli. Only the best shops fill them when ordered. They are just heaven.
Maryann | Homepage | 09.08.07 - 2:03 pm

Castelbuono in the Parco delle Madonie

It must've been pure fate that we ended up lodging — to our surprise — less than a couple of miles from the hometown of the lovely bride. We had it in mind to situate ourselves within distance to the groom's home in Cefalu, yet far enough to avoid the humidity on the coast. Castelbuono, nestled higher up within the Parco delle Madonie, is a big draw for nature enthusiasts and a delightful discovery when it comes to eating, sagra celebrating, and finding goodies to bring back home. Ok, so we didn't get to lace up our boots due to the heat, but for us quasi-city inhabitants, the daily scenarios (livestock suddenly dashing across the street for example) were something else! The local driving habits were another thing entirely with vehicles stopping in mid-traffic for whatever reason that served them. Parking is almost non-existent in Castelbuono but this is a given anywhere in Italy. The solution, we soon learned, was easy enough — pull off somewhat to the side so that others can get around you. We tried it ourselves and it worked! No blaring of horns, no cussing, no angry hand gestures. Infact, those having to maneuver around in traffic waved to the ones that were impeding it!! If this is even a tiny peek of Sicily then I am totally in tune with it. Plus it would seem that others might feel the same as I observed different languages being spoken while lazing about in the piazza; clearly visitors like us although nothing said or heard compared to the lively sicilian dialect which echoed within the square.

As is always the case, we didn't have enough time to fully explore this small area of Sicily and I hope my notes will do some justice on sharing a little of what we experienced. [On a side note, Castelbuono is part of the Palermo province but sooorrry street food hounds, we weren't able to wander through the chaotic mess for sfinciuni (Palermo's version of the pizza), pani cu'la meuza (veal spleen sandwiches), and stigghiole (sections of lamb and/or goat intestines wrapped in caul and grilled). After viewing that googled image, I'm thinking bbq sicilian-style. Yummy!]

rrring! rrring! Pronto? - Even shepherds need a way to stay in contact with the world.


Sicily has got to have the greatest beaches in all of Italy. View at Pollina station.

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Saved comment(s)

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I should state here that the yellow fruit are melons!
~rowena~ | 09.09.07 - 12:05 am

I was trying to remember the name of those lemons - those huge ones are also grown on the south coast of the mainland. Cedre? They supposedly can be eaten as is, peeled like an orange, but I still find them too tart.
Jeni | Homepage | 09.08.07 - 10:54 pm

What a treat to be in Sicily with you, even if it's only as a cyber-companion. Incredible beach!
casey | Homepage | 09.08.07 - 1:05 am

Hmmm..what I notice in a lot of photos I've seen taken in the village squares is that there aren't a heck of a lot of women. I mean, the men seem always present, but few women. Are they all at home cooking?
Maryann | Homepage | 09.07.07 - 9:32 pm

Beautiful pictures!! I also loved hearing about the wedding in your last post. Are those lemons in the first picture?!? They're huge, if so! The beach is beautiful, I hope you got some swimming in!
emily | Homepage | 09.07.07 - 9:17 pm

Sicilian wedding

I am inclined to believe that the first and foremost question would be "Well, how was the wedding?" Going through the photos, I am equally inclined to say that it was a thoroughly enjoyable and extremely beautiful event, despite the sweltering heat and humidity. For starters, the very modest ceremony was held at the cathedral of Cefalu'. The building's architectural style, the history involved, the mosaics within — all absolutely stunning. (And here I thought I'd be tearing up to a matrimony held at a small local church -- sniff sniff) I've uploaded a large image of the cathedral's interior on flickr.

Since I don't feel at liberty to be posting personal photos on this blog, all I can say is that my husband certainly works with a bunch of good-looking, sociable guys. I swear, it was like sitting at a round table of budding  A. Pacinos, A. Garcias, and L. di Caprios. The guests in attendance numbered around 250 -- I suppose in the "medium" range when it comes to weddings. As for the food, well, that might be the only drawback as I was hoping for some truly traditional dishes but the reception was held and catered at a seaside hotel in Cefalu. A fancy seafood menu which started off great in the beginning until our table raised one too many glasses to spontaneous brindisi and I found myself fiddling with the second course and barely touching dessert. We were toasting to anything and everything!

Conversation always comes so easily when several glasses of wine are involved and the main question posed to me was "How do you like Sicily?" — Of course I had nothing but fine things to compliment about the island of their birth, as it reminded me of the island of my birth if only for the geographical aspect alone. I must've said something right between discussions on food, holidays, and the perception of a place seemingly famous only for the mafia and The Godfather (so not true) because in the end we were offhandedly invited to not one but two weddings next year. I suppose the "window" is closing for some of these still single men but we'll have to wait and see... The best tip that I received on visiting Sicily? Travel during the months of April to June when it isn't so unbearably hot. And if you want to buy chocolates from Modica? (Here they unanimously chimed in together) Buy the ones with almonds!

The wedding cake: single-layer ovals topped with shaved white chocolate and displayed in the shape of a flower.

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I love Sicily, I've been twice! My sister is actually getting married in Taoromina next September, I can't wait! I'm bridesmaid of course :-) Looks like you had a fab time, nothing like a few glasses of Sicilian vino!!!!
Lorraine@italianfoodies | Homepage | 09.07.07 - 12:08 am

"it was like sitting at a round table of budding A. Pacinos, A. Garcias, and L. di Capris" -- You lucky girl! ;-) Looks like it was such a lovely wedding...the toasts are some of my favorite wedding moments :-)
joey | Homepage | 09.06.07 - 4:37 pm

Hi Rowena,
Glad to hear that you enjoyed the wedding. And you have been invited to a second one?! Do you still get people asking questions to you about Hawaii? And the ever popular "how do you like living here?" Believe me, I have heard it all and answered to just about every question; well thought, dumb, or just darn curious. See you soon :-)
barbara | Homepage | 09.06.07 - 10:13 am

...ah I love weddings. My husband was a wedding photographer when I met him and we would "shoot" weddings so we could be together on weekends. It was fun, we were always at everyone's best parties.
Carla | Homepage | 09.06.07 - 5:47 am

I remember that Cathedral! We stopped only briefly in Cefalu... we ate lunch by the water, saw the Cathedral, had gelato (of course) and did a little (mostly window) shopping. It was our last day in Sicily... so sad! Anyway... I hope this is just the first of several posts from you on the topic of Sicily. Love the cake!
Cathy | Homepage | 09.06.07 - 3:59 am

What a fabulous looking wedding! Thanks for including some pics. I totally understand about the privacy thing. I have lots of adorable pictures of my daughter and her friends but I never put the other kids in unless they are turned around or something.
Julianne from Luxe Mama | Homepage | 09.05.07 - 7:12 pm

That is the COOLEST wedding cake I've ever seen!!!! Love that it is one layer. Very unique.
Steamy Kitchen | Homepage | 09.05.07 - 6:24 pm

Congrats to the newlyweds! I agree with Bea. Why tease us about the gorgeous guys? haha
Maryann | Homepage | 09.05.07 - 5:41 pm

Ahah, good-looking bunch? Now we need evidence Rowena! Photos! I am sure they will not mind some publicity! Btw, funny, I stayed in Cefalu when I visited Sicily YEARS ago!
Bea at La Tartine Gourmande | Homepage | 09.05.07 - 4:52 pm

Very nice pic of the bridal couple, while keeping it non-personal! Always a struggle....

We were both in Sicily in August, it appears!
Sara, Ms. Adventures in Italy | Homepage | 09.05.07 - 2:33 pm