
"Between arrosticini and sise delle monache (typical sweet), greetings from Maiella."
Receiving postcards from food-loving friends is a big plus in my book. This is how I first heard about Sise delle Monache, or Tre Monti as they are also known, but before I continue with the recipe, I must make a small confession that I really wasn't all that dazzled with the final results. Even after testing several versions for a total of 5 times, my opinions only confirmed that I'm a chocolate kind of girl through and through. This is basically a sponge-type cake with a filling of thick pastry cream. My husband liked it though, and so I'm putting my faith in the sentiments of the friend who sent the postcard (and also Jackie of Allora Aspetta) that this simple dessert will appeal to others too.
The original recipe can be found at abruzzo.com but I've cut it down to 1/4 and have given both metric and U.S. measurements. Please note that these must be made on the day that they are to be served! They stale after a day and don't hold up well in the fridge.
[makes 12]
3 large eggs, separated
pinch salt
75 grams granulated sugar [5 tablespoons]
25 grams potato flour [3 tablespoons]
60 grams all-purpose flour [6 tablespoons]
grated zest of ½ orange or 1 small lemon
about 1½ cup prepared vanilla pastry cream
Sift the potato and all-purpose flours together; set aside. In a deep bowl, add the salt to the egg whites and make a very stiff, but not overly dry meringue incorporating 3 tablespoons of the sugar. Set aside. In another bowl, beat the egg yolks with the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar just until thick and lemon-colored.
Gently fold the beaten yolks into the whites until partially incorporated. Sift the combined flours over the top and add the zest; continue to fold in gently until thoroughly combined.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Using a pastry bag with a large round tip or ziploc bag with a 3/4-inch snip at one corner, pipe groups of 3 mountains into 12 portions, leaving at least an inch of space in between. Bake for 18-20 minutes until golden brown around the edges and on the tips (this will depend on the heat of your oven).

They will eventually spread out and look much like this. Cool and set aside until ready to use.

To assemble, split in half and fill with pastry cream. I've done my embellishing here with the addition of mandarin sections but any fruit will do. Generously dust the tops with powdered sugar and serve, or take it a step further with a pool of complementary sauce on the side. On an italian cooking forum the baker used cupcake liners - a nifty solution for those who shy away from piping free form. See more baker's notes at the very end of this post.

About the name
This isn't the first time I've written on foods with a connection to a body part so it might be of interest to know what sise actually are and why they're named so. If you haven't already guessed, sise are boobs, a vernacular form of the word zizze or breasts. The following is a loose translation of three possible theories from pasticceria Lullo [www.pasticcerialullo.it] regarding Sise delle Monache.
The first says that the original name was "tre monti" (3 mountains) which referred to the mountainous landscape. According to popular myth, it was mischievously changed to "sise delle monache" when upon seeing the pastries whiter than usual, Abruzzese poet Modesto della Porta said, "Madonna, how they are straight and pointy! They really look like the tits of nuns!"
The second is considered as stemming from an actual event. The nun, with intentions of hiding her female form in order to look more spiritual, inserted some fabric between her bosom so that the bandage covering them showed a flat surface. Hence the popular fantasy of the three tits.
The third guess is a no-brainer. The sise delle monache are named "of the nuns" because this type of brioche was invented by the nuns. Doh! Obviously someone with a salacious sense of humor came up with "sise". I'm not even going to get into the various names, all of which sound like a bad joke. For the nuns they were only a unique type of sweet.
Baker's notes:
For evenly spaced portions, trace 3-inch circles on a piece of baking parchment, like shown below. Evenly place x's to mark where to begin piping. Flip this template guide over so that the pencil markings are facing the baking sheet.
I've also made this recipe with the intention of serving only 6, joining two sections like a sandwich. In the image notice that the piping on the right is flatter for the bottom half. A fingertip or palette knife works wonders in this case!

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