In giro a Milano: Luini made me do it!

Before anyone gets the notion that Luini is some hot male model that I encountered in Milan, let me set the record straight - Luini is no model, but heaven help me if we were neighbors. The Luini that I speak of is a place where they make the best panzerotti in the city, and no visit is complete without eating not one, not two, but at least 3 of their broke da mout' savory fried pastries. As mentioned in the previous post, I was a very bad girl in Milan. The plain truth was that if I could eat fried pockets of yumminess without guilt, why not go a step further and cook carnitas? Sometimes all it takes is a little Luini to get the ball rolling.

It just dawned on me that the last post titled in giro a Milano (going around Milan) was written in March 2005 and although we've gone into the city on other occasions, this past Saturday came with a dual purpose. MotH and I met with the blog authors of Slippah Time!, two of the truly most gracious hosts that I have met - ever! This will be a lengthy, drawn out post covering where we went, what I ate, and ultimately ending with the biggest surprise of the day. The second reason for Milan was a flat out mission for asian cooking ingredients (near impossible to obtain in Lecco), and as much as I had seen lots of positive things written about Kathay in italian forums, nothing, NOTHING could have prepared me for the treasure trove of stuff that lay beyond those doors. The place rocks! The deeper I went among the aisles, the better it got, and all I kept silently saying to myself was oh my god, oh my god, oh my GOD! It took 6 years to finally get my arse in here? As luck would have it, I was in good hands with my very own personal shopping guides. [F & S, I owe you big time.]
I see, I want, I eat

The panzerotto. A harmless pocket of fried dough with tomato and mozzarella. Or prosciutto and mozzarella. Or spinach and ricotta. Or, or, or... Words cannot describe how great these are. Just remember that 3 (2 fried and 1 baked) is the minimum, otherwise you're weak.


Baked panzerotti. I think Hawaii folks could appreciate these as they're reminiscent of flaky manju cookies. Totally different filling-wise of course, but there is something about that half moon shape which makes them impossible to resist. We got one with berries and cream and another with figs and nuts. The dough crust was tender and flaky, with the right amount of filling. To tell the truth, I liked the pastry crust better. I bet they use lard (strutto). Bad girl!
I wish there were places like these on Kauai

Zucca in Galleria. For coffee. Gorgeous place. Next time, I'm going in heels and doing a proper sit down. You gotta live a little, right? Smart girl.
I am a chocolate gelato-loving monster

What else is there to say? Gelato in Italy is something that I take for granted. You find your favorite places and avoid the rest, but in unfamiliar surroundings there's that element of risk that maybe, just maybe, this gelateria will rock your world. We had a double scoop - paprika chocolate and dark chocolate - and it was so good that I cursed for joy. Bad girl.

Piazza Mercanti

I'm ashamed to admit that even if Milan is the biggest city nearest to Lecco, I really haven't made the effort to get to know her. This historical building is just a few steps from the duomo, but again, it took someone else to point it out to me. See what happens when you live closer to Bellagio and Clooney? Speaking of which, here is G-man himself in front of his villa. Click to enlarge if you don't believe me. http://www.panoramio.com/photo/3499325
Asian ingredients shopping spree

Full description of foodstuffs on flickr
Wanna know where to find nam pla or patis in Italy? Enormous goya, bok choy, pandanus and bamboo leaves? Hangiri (those wooden mixing bowls for sushi rice), chinese wooden cookie molds and NOH chinese bbq seasoning mix? I can only speak for Lombardy, but Kathay is thee place to go. As I investigated the aisles in disbelief, inwardly I was smiling at the thought of never having to worry ever again about luggage weight restrictions whenever I return with goods from back home. No italian customs agent pawing through my mochi rice, sesame seeds and italian panties because he thinks I may be smuggling in electronics. Honey, you can't eat those things. Wow! That leaves more space for portuguese sausage and poi!
Visualizzazione ingrandita della mappa Via Rosmini 11 Milano
Labels: Milano eats

18 Comments:
Hello Rowena.. I am not sure which I more astounded at..the fact that you have not made more of an effort to investigate Milan, or that you can eat 3 of those fried pastries...I will admit it.. I am weak..!! :-)
Well you have found a treasure of a shop with your Asian foods, I haven't a clue when I go in one, got one in my little town and a few bigs ones in Oxford!
Your excitement is contagious. I do get to Milan usually once a year but I have to admit I won't be seeking out that store since I can get Asian foods in the U.S. easily. Nice to finally see the duomo without scaffolding.
That's a beautiful building in the first image, and those pastries look like something that would really hit the spot right now. Not the dessert ones, though I'd love to get my hands on one of those, but the fried ones. Dear Lord... I want one ... and I want it now! But I suppose I'll have to wait. ^_^
Ciao Rowena! You came to Milan!!! Too bad we didn't meet, though - I wasn't in town this past Saturday anyway. Next time :)
Hahahaha, Rowena, why didn't you let me know earlier? I could have shipped you some Asian spices.
Would love to try that paprika chocolate gelato and panzerotto, and I'll have 4 fried and 2 baked, I'm a tough man, wahahahaha.
Uh-oh...somebody warn her neighbors...she bought kimchi sauce LOL
Luini is going to make me visit Milan a lot sooner than I'd planned! I was planning to go last year but there wasn't enough time...
Hi there.
I've been having kimchee nabe a lot recently and as I live in Japan I'm getting my fix of Asian tastes every day but Italian pastries and gelato look really good.
I'm visiting Milano next Summer so will bookmark this one:)
From a rather wet Kyoto.
TK
Enough food porn! :-D
I'd go to Milano for the food rather than the lovely cathedral, now.
I'll take one with spinach and one male model PLEASE.
That is how I am when I find a new gourmet import store here...OMG omg!
This was an awesome foodie adventure!
Anne - I know, I know, I know...I should be ashamed of myself, but seeing that there are many other english-speaking bloggers in Milan, it seemed pointless to explore what's already been explored! The problem is that in my mind, Milan = lo shopping, and since I prefer Patagonia outfits over D & G, city-tripping simply never tops my list. I promise to remedy that ;-)
CC Linda - I did a double-take when I saw the duomo senza scaffolding and so clean! And I kicked myself for not thinking to bring the Canon.
Brad - ha! Fried stuff...it's all good to me for one entire day, then I detox with fruit and vegetables for several days after. I am so glad that Luini's and me aren't neighbors.
Sara - that's exactly what a little birdie told me! But Slippah Time came to the rescue and the rest is history. Anyways, when we meet we gotta do girl stuff, not digging around a stuffy asian grocer! Aperitivo hour? Pranzo? Tutte le ragazze americane insieme?
Kenny - no, no, no! You can't do that because the parcel may not make it through customs! But I heart you anyway for being so thoughtful. ^-^ Muah!
Debi - they already know about my uhm...exotic cooking. Whenever I cook with patis, I throw the windows and doors wide open. Buahahaha!
Helen - with all of your exotic travel plans for the next 5 years, I am anticipating what wonders you'll be sharing on your pages. I will be taking notes!
Hello Sweety - please let me know when you do visit. If we could meet it would be too cool, as I always love reading about you and Kat on foodie adventures.
Zhu - I'm happy to report that the food porn has been curtailed until next week!
Foodie - hahahahahaha! Love your sense of humor! At least one of us here wouldn't mind an italian male model.
Kat - get this, they even had those vietnamese pork sausages...don't remember the name, but I know that Kathy Chan wrote about it once on her visit back home. Also, not just one type of sake but several, and premade mooncakes, mochi, INSTANT ramen in all flavors, frozen dim sum, charsiu bao, blah, blah, blah! Must.go.back.
I couldn't agree more with you...it was a terrific day together in Milan, but we are definitely BAD BAD girls! ;-)
We had a great time discovering new treasuries in the city ...and your eyes were really sparkling with joy at Kathay! So great, we have to repeat! Sonia
Sonia - ihih..and I am terribly sorry that I "perfumed" your car with the panzerotti in my bag. Lonely Planet's online guide to Milan mentions Chiesa di San Bernardino alle Ossa. Dario has never heard of it, but I think it sounds rather fascinating!
Love this post, Rowena! I am originally from Milan and I wish I could say "been there, done that, bought the T-shirt," but unlike you I have never had a panzerotto at Luini's, though obviously I know the place, nor a gelato at Choco Cult's! How bad is that? Must have been away too long. Hope you and your papille gustative have a great time cooking with your treasure trove of Asian foods. ;-)
Paola - WHAT tshirt? There's a tshirt? And I didn't see it??? (surely because my face was glued to the display window)
I really owe my gratitude to the milanesi couple that convinced me enough to want to visit Kathay. I vaguely heard of the shop before, from a couple of americans in Milan, but it just never hit home that Kathay was all that. If you're ever in the area again, let's do Luini's for lunch!
No, no T-shirt that I am aware of. Though a "Panzerotto" T-shirt would be fun. Next time I plan a trip to Milan I'll let you know - you'll be able to give me advice on the best panzerotti, I'm sure. :-P
So glad you found Kathay and that it exceeded expectations (never heard of it before, btw, but then I've been away for decades and by now I have totally lost contact with the city). Must be hard to crave a taste from home and not be able to find the ingredients!
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