One of the "bei" at Schignano - description belowCarnevale in Italy - it's a birthright. And without need of even having to mention the famous event in Venice, there are simply too many to choose from. This year we ventured to Como, sister province to Lecco. High above the lake in a small mountain village named Schignano, two protagonists - i Bei (the beautiful) and i Brut (the ugly), perform a sort of theatrical display in which its origins are ensconced deep within ancient history. The carved wooden masks (typically out of walnut and made by local craftsmen) of the bei and brut symbolize the disparity between opposites, whether it concerns wealth, success or beauty.
This is supposed to be one of the more complex carnevale rites because it involves a period in history's past where at one time, emigration by the men of the village was an occurrence like the coming of seasons. Carnevale marked the end of the old year and brought promise of the new one as the males left for far away places in search of work. Those who met with success are seen in the faces of the bei / belli (beautiful), while the ones who lucked out are depicted in the brut / brutti (ugly).
Compared to Venice, Schignano's carnevale has gained outside attention only recently and I've been wanting to attend this for the past couple of years. While it may seem bourgeois from the outlook, it is always unique tradition that draws me in more than the famous ones. The following photos are just a few taken this past Saturday. Although I've tried my best to describe the images, a link (italian) at the end of this post better explains this occasion in detail. At this point I'd like to give a big appreciation of thanks to the italian reader who recently sent me the following email. Really, it's like a big shot in the arm because here I thought I was going overboard with a goal of 100 ways to celebrate Italy. I guess not!
I like your gaze into italian traditions...it seems quite like the anthropologist's gaze, which comes from the outside and sees things that many locals don't even care about!
Carnevale dei Belli e dei Brutti (bei e brut) - more at flickr
WHERE: Schignano in Val d'Intelvi (piazza S. Giovanni) - about 17 miles north of Como.
WHEN: On the Saturday and Shrove/Fat Tuesday just before Ash Wednesday.
Bello or "mascarun" (above): their extravagant demeanor exemplifies those who went and made their fortune, their swollen bellies a clear sign of weath and well-being. A lot of pomp in their step as you can see. Above their smooth masks, they wear a hat which is densely covered with flowers, ribbons, a feather and a small doll or toys.

The wooden masks: I wish I could have tried them on but I was too shy to ask! Handsome bello (left) and ugly brutto (right) were hanging above the stand where mulled wine was being sold. It was the best hot spicy wine that we've tasted in all our travels. They had that sugar/clove/wine ratio just right.

Brut: there was a bunch of them, pulling pranks to onlookers (they'll grab your hat or even grab you!). Some carried empty flasks (a gesture of self-consolation), while others toted a "gerla", the type of shoulder basket used by grape harvesters. These are the unfortunate ones, the men who didn't quite make it out there and returned with nothing (as depicted by this brut with an empty suitcase). In contrast to the arrogant behavior of the bei, the brut carried an air of melancholy and despair. I actually thought something was wrong with one of them when I was snapping an image but he was just playing the role!

Again, one of the brut. This guy looks as if he's saying, 'What do you want? I have nothing!' Note that some of them also had horns on their caps.

The antagonism between the beautiful and the ugly: Here, several of them were chasing each other around in circles. Both characters have cow bells strapped to their waists but the brutti wore especially enormous ones. The whole scene was a riot of noise, confetti and a thousand shutters firing all at once.
Link - http://www.ifgonline.it/UserFiles/File/schignano.pdf