Monday, March 30, 2009

Thoughts on trash bag penalties, liquid yeast and Sigonella

Maddie and Tatanka n.2

The diva herself as she saw fit to spend this afternoon. We had a wet and rainy weekend which canceled all outdoor activities, so even if it was a cloudy start for today, the fact that it did not rain was enough...for her.

If the title is any indication, you might be able to tell that the carousel-of-random-thoughts is spinning erratically in my head. I'm going to put the blame on Earth Hour this past Saturday (we participated!), and that when the juice was switched back on, the inevitable power surge extended to my noggin and did a soft scramble. A good thing it wasn't Earth 24 Hours!

But getting back to the thoughts (leave now if you don't want to be appalled by italian taxes and bureaucracy)... damn the trash bag penalty! I noticed that the garbage tax went up a whopping 90% from last year — what was once 29 euros is now 55. Apparently within the last 3 years we did not buy enough trash bags from the comune (local town council) and will be penalized for it. Now the bags are priced at 20 euros for 12 (part of the complicated taxing system of course) so you can easily understand how we would double our efforts on recycling. What do garbage bags cost at the store? A few dollars for a dozen? They're the size of the large lawn type, and it takes about 5 weeks to fill up. That's how good we are at sorting out. No plastic bottled water, only returnable glass, and we try to purchase in bulk and/or refill sizes to reduce excessive rubbish in the first place. So then, it makes sense that the less sacks we use, the better for landfills, right? Wrong, because the comune wants more money. For what I have no bleeding clue because they're open at the most inconvenient of hours. This has really put my panties in a twist, because in essence, what they're saying is that they want us to put out more rubbish for them to pick up at curbside. Arghghghghghgh!

liquid yeastOn liquid yeast. I should be more diligent about my grocery finds instead of going with the attitude of who's gonna want to know about this? I don't quite grasp how it's possible to market yeast in a liquid state as I thought its leavening capabilities were suspended in dried/fresh form, reactivated only through the resuscitating qualities of water. Did I miss something in baking college? When I've some fresh mozzarella, basil and tomato sauce, I'll put the yeast to the test by making the pizza margherita recipe on the back of the packet. Incidentally, the amount of liquid yeast is enough to ferment 500 grams (a pound) of flour.

On Sigonella. It's home to a US naval air station less than 15 miles from Catania (Sicily), and there's a slim chance that I may be flying down there in May. I've already got my scoop on a few places where to find the best granita in Catania, but if anyone knows of another favorite spot, please do not hesitate to share it. There is no way I can go to that part of Sicily and not pig out on granita. I could barely contain myself when we visited Castelbuono 2 years ago.


Visualizzazione ingrandita della mappa

Friday, March 27, 2009

Miss Maddie puts the flirt on

Improper, or irresponsible use of a flirt pole can cause quite a bit of controversy in some dog owner circles. I use the flirt pole as another form of exercise for Mister Bentley, and made one easily out of a bamboo stick (the kind I use to stake my tomato plants), some string and the dogs' stuffed rat toy as the "bait". Dragging/swinging the rat low to the ground in a game of chase strengthens his coordination skills, wears down his nails, and after 10 minutes of running back and forth, zaps a lot of his puppy energy. A tired puppy is a happy one as they say, and keeps him out of trouble. Needless to say, I avoid having him jump excessively or at great heights as I've heard enough of how doxies are prone to spinal injuries. Let me tell you, this is the best thrill yet for Mister B but it's totally lost on our 4-year old westie.

While the camera was recording segments for the clip below, I wasn't aware that Maddie was getting in any of the scenes. All I was hoping to capture was Mister B at play with the flirt pole. Looks like the senior dawg may have something else on her mind. At least she's not camera shy!

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Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Obedience training: 2nd lesson

Training field
Photo from Mister B's first day at school. He's on the left.

I should start out by saying that Mister B's Sunday lessons are currently scheduled every two weeks, and while at first it seemed a long stretch of time in between, I'm appreciating the extra days to work on his aggressive behavior. He will take every opportunity to slip into the dominant-protective role if we are not on our toes, and for the first time in months I had to employ a technique that I've seen Cesar Millan use when a dog is too aggressive. A neighbor walked onto our property, invited, and Mister B reacted as such (I had him by the collar) that I felt it necessary to put him on his side to the ground and hold him there by the neck. If anyone has watched Cesar's show I'm sure you must have seen this move. It is something that I don't particularly like to do but it works - for the moment - as he ceases to assert himself when I place him in that position.

Maddie and I did not accompany the boys this past Sunday and the report is that Mister B attacked the instructor again - once. That's the only bad news. I should stress that he attacks when there is sudden, unexpected movement in what he perceives as his space. From that very same woman just minutes before, he cautiously accepted a treat - an intended move on her part as she slowly extended her hand or tossed a treat in his direction. The good news is that he learned a new command: Down (underside in full contact with the surface). I never went beyond Sit as it was enough for me that his rear end was touching the floor. I am amazed that he learned this outside of the home, but it's a good sign of attention and concentration on his part, even when there are distractions from the rest of the dogs on the field.

Dogwalking update: The last time I mentioned taking the dog on separate walks - Maddie first then Mister second. If you recall, Mister B became very upset when he was left behind, so it was suggested by some kind readers that I do the opposite and it worked, if only for a few days. I simply told Maddie in a normal tone of voice that I was walking Mister B first. She was fine with it for 4 days, then on the 5th, she let out a wail SO LOUD that it seemed like she was rehearsing for a role as funeral mourner. This didn't bother me in the least, but what the Mister did next (I'm rolling my eyes as I recall that day), was just plain odd. We were not more than a hundred feet away when all of a sudden he stopped in his tracks, put his butt on the ground and refused to budge an inch. He kept looking back to where he could hear Maddie crying (she was out of view) and then he looked at me and set his face as if to say "I'm not going for a walk." I tried coaxing him, even dragging him, but he resisted even more so we turned around and I let him loose in the yard. Would you believe that he uttered not one sound when Maddie and I started walking away? Currently I'm back to walking Maddie first like before. As long as he cannot see us (I keep him tethered just out of sight from the driveway) he'll fuss for a few minutes then eventually stop. My guess is that he stops because he's trying to bite through his leash.

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Monday, March 23, 2009

The Imaginary Divide

It is 15°C (59°F) outside and so far the trouble-making duo have well, stayed out of trouble. It's funny to see how they "stake out" a section of the terrace as their own personal space. Or at least that's what the senior dog does, as she can't stand it when Mister B wants to lay alongside her. Wish that I could join them out there but I wasn't invited. Someone has to stand at attention in the kitchen to prepare carrot sticks and pear chunks throughout the day.

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Thursday, March 19, 2009

Zeppole di San Giuseppe

Zeppole napoletane al forno

If not for a calender check from the MotH, the office boys would have had nothing sweet to celebrate San Giuseppe/Father's Day this morning. How could I have forgotten?! So last night I whipped up a dozen zeppole for him to take to work, but this time I used a less bothersome recipe. If I'm to go on my sources, these particular zeppole are called zeppole napoletane, or at least that's how you'll find them made in Napoli. The most obvious difference in this recipe is the addition of cooked potatoes in the yeast-risen dough. If you recall the zeppole from last year, those were made from a cream puff type of dough which was baked then fried.

I want to clarify that the image above is NOT the true zeppole that is typically fried, but rather a baked version to ease the guilt often associated with fried foods. I made those just a few hours ago on impulse. While they may not be as rich as their greasy and sugar-coated counterparts, overall flavor is not lacking in its soft bread-like texture. Actually, these could be way more hazardous to the diet, ehhh...because of their liteness, I already ate 3 of them.

Zeppole recipe with the addition of potato

2 cup all-purpose flour
4 tablespoons granulated sugar
grated zest of 1 lemon or orange
a good pinch of salt
2 1/4 teaspoon active dry yeast
3 tablespoons warm water
1 large potato (10 oz.), boiled, peeled, then put through a ricer
2 large egg yolks
4 tablespoons butter, at room temperature

Combine flour, sugar, citrus zest and salt in a large bowl, make a well in the middle and add the yeast and 3 tablespoons water; stir to dissolve. Next add the potato, yolks and butter. Mix until combined then turn out onto floured work surface. Knead gently for a few minutes until well combined, using extra flour if necessary, or adding a few drops of milk if the dough is too dry. Divide the dough into 24 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a log 7-7½ inches long. To shape, cross ends over as shown in the picture below. Heed the following steps for either the fried or baked versions.

Fried - set each shaped piece on a generously floured work surface or platter with enough space in between. Cover with a light, dry cloth and allow to rest for 60 minutes. Fill and preheat (medium-low flame) a large frying pan with cooking oil to a depth of at least 3/4th inch. Gently pick up the proofed zeppole and slip into the hot oil. Fry each side, turning once, until golden brown in color. Drain on paper towels and roll in granulated sugar. Makes 24.

Baked - set each shaped piece on a parchment-lined baking sheet with space in between. Allow to rest for 60 minutes. Preheat oven to 375°F. Bake the zeppole for 12-15 minutes until lightly browned. Cool completely before sifting powdered sugar over the top. Makes 24.

Zeppole shapes
Shaping the zeppole

The "true" zeppole napoletane
Fried zeppole rolled in sugar. These are the ones that went to the office.

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Ricotta gnocchi with mushrooms and corn

Ricotta gnocchi with mushrooms and corn

Fresh ricotta gnocchi surrounded by a flavorful ragout of tinned corn, button mushrooms and pioppini. Hmm... If by some odd chance Chef Melissa Perello reads of the banal substitutions that I made to her recipe, I hope she won't feel too slighted. Corn season is still months away and gourmet fungi have yet to make their appearance at my usual grocer, so what's a foodie to do except sit tight and wait? Obviously I didn't, or wouldn't, because after having learned of Chef Perello and her laudable cooking style (thanks Foodhoe!), it became imperative to try the recipe at Food & Wine and see if MotH would eat what I was getting all excited about.

Hesitant to make your own gnocchi at home? Not sure about getting the texture and shape just right? Well fret no more, and forget about putting that pot of water on to boil. These light and fluffy ricotta gnocchi are panfried to a golden color, and shaping them is a cinch. I hope these few sentences are convincing enough to jump right in and start cooking, but I'm adding a few photos of gnocchi-in-the-making. The convenience factor is being able to prep them the day before, then cooking and assembling everything at the last moment. I've already made this twice - first time with cow's milk ricotta and later from sheep's milk - and on both counts the results were superb. Need I say that it won over the MotH? Recipe here.

    

Monday, March 16, 2009

Tarallucci e Vino

Tarallucci and wine. In Italy, the conjunction of these two words takes on actual meaning other than a trendy restaurant or something to eat and drink. For instance, when friends engage in discussion of differing opinions and realize that common ground can't be reached at the end, they'll say something like, "Let's forget it and have tarallucci e vino." It's just a way to end things on a good note — and what better way than with nibbles and a glass of red.

These savory (or sweet) snacks that look like miniature bagels might fall under the category of "crackers" as they are essentially a baked product made from flour, salt, flavorings and water. Whenever we have surprise guests, I usually open a bag of tarallucci and set them out with a platter of assorted cheese and olives, kinda like how you'd serve chips and dip back in the states. What prompted me to make my own tarallucci was a great post by Susan of Wild Yeast. She tried her hand at making the elongated taralli, for which inspired my baking marathon this past weekend. If you can master these, then you can call yourself italian for the day. I don't know of many bakers who have tried making their own at home.

Recipe and a variation

When I told MotH that I wanted to bake my own tarallucci, he recalled a fond memory of the tarallucci that his friend's mother use to make. He said they were flavored with ground black pepper and chopped almonds, and were shaped so tightly that you couldn't see through the hole in the middle. He claims that they were the best that he had ever tasted. This recipe was created with that fond memory in mind, but I've also added a variation at the end using chile pepper powder, chipotle chile flakes and red wine. I figured that with the addition of wine, you could still end a debate with tarallucci e vino, even if you might not have any wine to imbibe on the spot!

3 cups all-purpose flour (tipo "00" in Italy)
1½ teaspoon salt
1¼ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1/2 cup chopped almonds, small dice
1/2 scant teaspoon dry yeast
10 ounces warm water
2 tablespoons lard or olive oil

Combine the flour, salt, black pepper and almonds in a mixing bowl. Make a well in the center and add the yeast. Add the water and allow the yeast to dissolve. Add the olive oil and stir to combine until the moisture is absorbed. Scrape the contents onto a lightly floured work surface and need for a few minutes until smooth.

Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces and roll each portion into a long strip that measures around 1/2 inch in diameter. Cut into 2½-inch lengths and wrap each piece around your finger to form a ring, pinching edges together to seal. Set aside on a floured surface and repeat with the remaining dough.

After shaping all of the pieces, lightly cover the tarallucci with a plastic bag (not necessary that the bag sticks to the surface) and allow to rest for 2 hours. The purpose is not to get the dough to rise a whole lot, but rather to allow the rings to firm up a bit before the next step.

Preheat oven to 350° F (convection) or 400° F (regular). Bring a large pot of water to a boil and lightly salt as if cooking bagels. After the tarallucci have sat for the required amount of time, drop them into the boiling water, a few at a time, and cook until they rise to the surface (shouldn't take more than a minute). Remove with a slotted spoon, drain well, and arrange on a baking sheet lined with parchment. Bake for 50-55 minutes until light golden brown on the surface, rotating halfway during baking time if your oven has hot spots.

Cool on a wire rack and store in an airtight container. Makes approximately 85 tarallucci.

Chile pepper and wine variation
In place of the black pepper, add 1 teaspoon chile pepper powder AND 2 teaspoons chipotle pepper flakes. Omit the almonds. Substitute the liquid with 6 oz water and 4 oz dry red wine.

Black pepper, almond and red wine taralli
Taralli - shaped in long loops

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Re-educating a canine social misfit

If it takes a whole village to raise a child, what will it take to reeducate a 13-month old dog? While Mister B might appear to be the cutest thing on these pages, he behaved so badly at his first training lesson that he ended up being the last dog to leave. Out of the six in his class, our dog is the smallest of them all, bowing out to a short-legged jack terrier by barely an inch. As I noticed each of the other dogs and their owners leaving the field, my heart began to sink. It didn't look good. The instructor asked for Mister B to be put into the car, and she and my husband had a "parent-teacher" conference while Maddie and I sat outside on the car's hood. While I was able to hear some of the conversation, the evaluation was this: the Mister needs to relearn basic social skills. Plain and simple, we have a very unfriendly male dachshund.

I wish I could hypothesize how this might have happened because Mister B is very social and in a constant good mood at home. He aced potty training quicker than Maddie, picked up on learning a new trick within 1-2 days, and at about 4 months of age began to be socialized with visits to the inlaws and coming along with us where a large gathering of people was sure to be present, like italian sagra events. He was always fearful (tail tucked under) and we thought that with time, he'd eventually grow out of it. Yet somehow, between then and now, his outlook on strange dogs and humans took on another thing altogether. He just doesn't like them. Doesn't want to sniff them out, doesn't want to play. He growled/barked at the other dogs without any provocation, barked at the instructor and even lunged at her too. To make matters worse, he gets separation anxiety. MB can't stand being left alone by himself.

The first lesson was split between classroom instruction for the owners, followed by lessons on the field with their respective pets. It was more of an opportunity for the instructors to see the leadership relation between owner and dog. Whatever basic commands that the dog already knew were put into practice to see how they responded in a different environment. I felt bad for some who hadn't even taught the very basic command of SIT, or seduto(a) in italian. Their doggies were straining to get free of the leash, probably wanting to sniff every canine back end on the training ground.

Which brings me to training Mister B at home. There is hope! First thing we had to do was to buy one of those chest collars that strap around the neck and upper third of the torso. These types of collars, for reasons that I still don't quite understand, is better for controlling the dog as opposed to neck collars. As I live in a very quiet area, there's not much occasion for interaction with strangers, so I'll be working on his fear of being left behind. I used to take them on walks together for about 45 minutes to an hour. Now I take them separately, Maddie always first, and will gradually increase the length of time away until he feels secure that I will always return home. This is only the fourth day and he has gone into full panic mode as soon as he realizes Maddie and I are leaving. Barking, whining, crying - as if the world was coming to an end. Maddie in the meantime flashes him a look as if to say, "So long sucker!"

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Tuesday, March 10, 2009

The Kreativ Blogger Award

I'm probably one of the last bloggers to receive this award but surprisingly enough, it was awarded to me twice within a week. And as a grateful recipient I'm happy to mention two people:

Zerrin of Give Recipe - a site dedicated to turkish cuisine and...
Carolyn of Eat A Beet - I think it's easy to guess what vegetable she loves best!

While Carolyn's site is still new to me, I've been following Zerrin for some time now. Her recipe for Red Bell Pepper Loaf or Biberli is the most delicious ethnic-type of bread that I've tasted yet. To describe it best I'd say that it is similiar to the style of focaccia but topped with a thick, luscious layer of chopped red bell peppers and loads of sesame seeds. You just have to taste this; it's addictive! Zerrin was very kind to answer some specific questions that I had in regards to the amounts listed in her recipe, and I'd like to add my notes in order to ensure reasonable success if you try baking this at home.


Photo credit: Rubber Slippers In Italy

Recipe notes to Zerrin's Red Bell Pepper Loaf:
* Total weight amount for red bell peppers should be about 500 grams (a little over 1 pound). The bell peppers (in all colors) that I find in Italy are gigantic, so I needed only two.
* The same ratio would apply to the onions? I used one, medium-sized, at 150 grams (5 oz).
* I used a food processor to pulse/chop the veggies. Italian bell peppers seem to be heavy on the juicy side, so I decreased the amount of olive oil to 1/4 cup.
* Being out of pepper paste, I substituted with 1/4 teaspoon ground chile pepper.
* The amount of yogurt for the dough concerned me as I was using the more liquid type, not the thicker greek version like Fage's, so I cut the amount given by half.
* The dimensions of the bread part came to 13 x 9½ inches (33cm x 23cm). I also baked the whole thing on baking parchment lightly sprinkled with cornmeal.

Additional note: there's going to be a hefty amount of topping but don't be alarmed. It all bakes down on the dough into this most incredibly fragrant treat. I like bell peppers, yet I'm not madly in love with them. I've already baked this two times. The MotH and I are crazy for biberli!!!

Sunday, March 08, 2009

Goldicake and the Three Bears

This cake is just right! I apologize in advance to readers who might not get what the title is referring to, but as the 8th of March celebrates the Festa della Donna in Italy, or International Women's Day all over the globe, Goldicake aka Torta Mimosa is the traditional dessert of choice. Auguri ladies! (best wishes!)

Getting back to the title, it's a play on words to Goldilocks and the Three Bears, a classic among children's stories. We wanted to acknowledge the date with a special meal, but I think what I had in mind was something that didn't require slaving over a hot stove. May as well use the Get out of Jail Free card when you got the chance right? The supermarket bakery had a pretty display of these mimosa cakes - Torta Mimosa - and the parallel to Goldilocks only occurred to me when I was trying to select the perfect size. This one is too big. This one is too little. This one is just right! Hello Goldicake!

Torta Mimosa

So what then, of the three bears? Well the following photo says it all and you know what? My therapist was right about the simple things making you happy [kidding]. I already had the teddybear ham at home so when I spied the bear-shaped piadine (pee-ah-DEE-neh, they're like flour tortillas) it was pointless to go home without them. Cuteness overload. They were intended to be quick sandwich nibbles before a lunch of ricotta gnocchi but it never happened because... we had no way of knowing the outcome of Mister B's first day at school.

The Three Bears

Which brings me to Mister B and his first day at obedience training. Is the photo enough to go on? He was snoring like a Mac truck just a few minutes ago. I'm saving the rest for the next installment of Mister Goes to School, but I'll close with one final thought. While most "kids" receive a grade of a plus or minus, guess what the Mister got on his very first day? Believe it or not, the little fart got detention!

Friday, March 06, 2009

If that was just the initiation...

Mister B after the initiation
..then I can only imagine what me Sunday lessons will be like.

280 euros is what it's going to cost us for 10 canine education lessons, and while I was a little peeved that we were hit on the spot for membership/insurance fees (20€ for MotH, 10 for me), it was only because I would've appreciated it if we had been informed about the €xtras in the first place. It's not that I'm trying to be cheap, but even for us on the other side of the pond, you have to weigh each projected expense on the scale of necessity or frivolity. It's not always easy.

Last night's meeting turned out to be nearly 90 minutes of questions pertaining to Mister B, and I'll have to say that the *Inquisition* was nothing BUT thorough. What do you think your dog thinks about you? Why are you interested in education classes for your dog? Why did you choose this type of dog? How much do you feed him? When do you feed him? Where do you feed him? To his credit, our little guy did quite well considering the circumstances as he is prone to being either very frightened or very aggressive in unusual situations (and thank god he didn't actually pierce anything when he tried to bite into the sneakered heel of the woman).

The good thing is if we should feel that he isn't making any progress in his behavior, we are free to cancel classes without further obligation. Another plus is the option of paying per lesson (28€) - much easier on the pocket than one lump sum. I can tell you this, Mister B will look at the word lessons in a whole new way after Sunday — all this time it only meant dancing with his mama and lots of treats whenever he correctly performed a backwards spin!

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Thursday, March 05, 2009

That does it Mister...you're off to boot camp!

Me likes me some muffins
Furtive contemplation of how to steal one of those blackberry muffins. Recipe courtesy of Carla @ Kootenay Bliss.

Taking nips out of budding plants, digging holes in the yard, stealing tomatoes off the vine, sitting on the herbs, pooping and peeing on the terrace, yanking MotH's underwear off the bottom of the tower AND dragging them all over the lawn... I understand that that is the agenda of a puppy, but we think perhaps it's time that Mister B enrolls in obedience training. He, actually we (all four of us), will be attending initiation classes tonight. Wish us luck!

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Tuesday, March 03, 2009

The sexy 5-minute chocolate mug cake

The sexy 5 minute chocolate mug cake

I'm not going to even try selling this one to serious chocolate lovers, but on behalf of whoever created this funky recipe, I feel obliged to tip the scales in his/her favor. I pinched this from Laura of My Journey and from what I understand, this mug cake has already made the rounds on net forums and food blogs. Apparently it also e-travels via spam, under the surreptitious guise of Forwards, so I'm thinking, there must be something to it, right?

A few key ingredients and 5 minutes is supposedly all it takes. Why there are any negative votes at all is befuddling. It's cooked in a MICROWAVE for crying out loud - didn't you read the instructions? - so don't mention how it compares to a baked version. Can you bake a cake in 5 minutes? Not. And then there's the weird, almost rubber-like texture - hello, microwave cooking follows an entirely different set of rules, but don't ask me, just look it up yourself on Wikipedia.

I suppose the mere suggestion that you can make your cake (and eat it too) all within a matter of minutes is utter blasphemy for persnickety types. I'll grant them that, but hope they don't get a crick in their necks for having noses high up in the air. Me, I just crave instant gratification in between juggling housework and attention-demanding dogs. I've cut & pasted the same recipe found on Laura's site and added my notes in italics. As for the sexy part, it's only because I chose to portray the mug cake in that light, but there's no holding back if you want to eat this in your birthday suit.

4 tablespoons flour (all-purpose)
4 tablespoons sugar (granulated)
2 tablespoons cocoa (NOT Nestle's cocoa mix, but unsweetened cocoa powder)
1 egg (large, beaten well)
3 tablespoons milk
3 tablespoons oil (vegetable or sunflower)
3 tablespoons chocolate chips, optional (in my opinion, it is a must - do not leave it out)
A small splash of vanilla extract
1 large coffee mug

Add dry ingredients to mug, and mix well.
Add the egg and mix thoroughly.
Pour in the milk and oil and mix well.
Add the chocolate chips and vanilla extract, and mix again.
Pour batter into mug and place in the microwave; cook for 3 minutes at 1000 watts.
(Not knowing what level is 1000 watts, I cooked at normal for 3½ minutes; DON'T overcook!)
The cake will rise over the top of the mug, but don't be alarmed!
(Mine didn't 'cause I used a super large mug)
Allow to cool a little, and tip out onto a plate if desired.
(Or just dig in with a spoon and some gelato)

Sunday, March 01, 2009

Bigoli with onions, anchovies and tuna

Reflecting on the festive air experienced recently at La Bigolada, I'm taking the opportunity to share this simple pasta recipe in Festa Italiana 2009. Hosted by bloggers Maryann of Finding La Dolce Vita and Marie of Proud Italian Cook, it pleases me to know that this humble plate of bigoli with onions, anchovies and tuna epitomizes la festa but in a truly historical sense. What initially began as an innocent dish of polenta with herring is still being celebrated today in the town of Castel d'Ario (Mantova) each year on Ash Wednesday - that's an impressive 150+ years later. Regardless of how you feel about Italy, the convivial vibes of a local festa or sagra undoubtedly adds to the country's charismatic oldtime appeal.

The recipe for this is so easy that I'm writing it how my mother-in-law would, with only a general suggestion on ingredient amounts. Bigoli is like fat spaghetti, and I've learned that they're also made with wholewheat flour. If bigoli or thick strand spaghetti isn't available in your store just use whatever you've got. In the end it'll be the rest of the ingredients that makes the difference. Please note that this dish came about during a period (Lent) in which rich foods were genuinely frowned upon by the church. In any case, feel free to substitute or leave out anything you don't like. In this day and age, I don't think the Pope is going to mind too much if you cheat a little.

Ingredients for 4 people: 700 grams [1½ lbs] fresh bigoli pasta or 400 grams [14 oz] dried, ½ small round onion, 2 salted anchovies, 1 small can tuna (in oil or water), olive oil

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Rinse the anchovies free of salt and remove the inner bone. Finely chop the onions and gently saute in a small amount of oil until fragrant. Add the cleaned anchovies and continue to cook gently until the anchovies begin to dissolve. Stir in the tuna and its liquid contents, and continue to cook on low heat until all breaks down to a fragrant sauce. Add some of the pasta water if it becomes too dry.

In the meantime, cook the pasta al dente or according to package directions. Drain and add to the sauce mixture; mix well to combine. Divide into individual portions and serve.