With only a day allocated for each major city we wanted to visit, I was very keen on seeing Gorizia and Trieste while the weather cooperated in our favor. The objective: why, food of course. Three summers ago I had the chance of tucking into some of the region's best dishes, so on this occasion it was an all out mission for heartier, heavier meals without worry of breaking a sweat in soaring August temperatures. Our mission included a couple of local customs that I knew we had to try for curiosity's sake. The first one - in giro per bicièri - is similar to the andar per goti pub crawl that had us falling in love with old Verona. Me and wine, food and me - hey, I was born for food and drink! The second - the buffets of Trieste - are actually symbolic of the city's old dining establishments. Typically the trattoria-buffet opens 8-9am and service is kept to the counter where a variety of fried, baked and grilled foods are set along the length of the bar. Pick and pay. Need to satisfy a rumbling tummy? Snub McD's and head to a buffet for coffee (or beer!) and a warm bite to eat. Just don't expect to be seated at a table at such an early hour.
I was immensely satisfied with everything that we tried, but must underline the locally-made prosciutto which was outstanding. Whether it was from the fact that it was hand-sliced to order (a whole leg of prosciutto is secured in a vise-like contraption) or perhaps because they just do prosciutto damn fine in Friuli, the pig did not die for naught in the making of these succulent cured hams. If anyone has tried italian prosciutto, do share your thoughts on hand vs machine-sliced. And if you know the italian word for that vise thingy...
Trattoria-Gostilna Alla Luna
Via Oberdan 13, Gorizia | Closed Sunday evening and Monday | €€
Someone or some ethereal being, must not look too kindly upon the idea of imbibing on a Sunday. Every address I had in hand was closed - chiuso - so we strolled central Gorizia as a large market was in full swing. By chance I happened to look into a restaurant window and noticed the Slow Food sticker - always a good sign in my book - and they seemed to have just opened! A few people were at the counter toasting glasses, and it became clear to me that they must be in giro per bicièri, or having a glass before heading home. We had it in mind to do the same but with what I intended to order, decided that a table would be a better idea.
The interior is what some might call a tight squeeze, but I found it to be cozy, inviting and festive with all of that warm color. The women working there are dressed in traditional slovenian costume which makes the whole experience that much more authentic.
A plate of local montasio cheese, walnuts and honey. Dee-licious!
A plate of their own housemade prosciutto and frico croccante, a crispy cheese basket with salty olives within. Even though it's hard to tell in the photo, hand-sliced prosciutto is much thicker, and feels like ham heaven on your tongue. Slightly salty, rich, sweet, yum!!!!!
Beans and sauerkraut never tasted so good until they were married into a liquid meal. Jota (YOH-tah) is a thick soup that is very popular in this region. The tang of the sauerkraut is only mildly discernible. I've seen some recipes where pancetta and/or pork is also added, but this one here did not have any of it from what I could see.
Gubana is a sweet yeast bread filled with a mixture of walnuts, raisins, dried figs, prunes, candied fruit, chocolate and bread crumbs. It is traditionally served with slivovitz, a distillate made from prunes.
Gibanica is a moist, delicate layer cake of poppy seeds, cottage cheese and apples. I'd like to recreate this for xmas eve, but with more layers. See wikipedia link: Prekmurska gibanica.
Buffet Birreria Rudy
Via Valdirivo 32, Trieste | Open Monday - Saturday from 9am to 1am | €€
Trieste is a handsome city nestled on the Adriatic coast that deserves more time than what we could allow, and I wish we could have actually stayed at least a night. The buffet that we stopped in (top image) had all manner of tempting foods beckoning behind glass displays (2nd image), but again, we decided that a table would be best especially with doggies in tow.
Bad focus job, but I was so impatient to dig in! This antipasto plate included liptauer, a type of cheese spread with roots in slovenian cooking. A whole variety of seasonings go into the mix, but the only one that sticks in my mind is capers. Spicy paprika was sprinkled on top and this was totally different in comparison to what I'm accustomed to eating in Italy. Loved it though! An assortment of locally cured meats rounded out the rest of the plate with a basket of plain and caraway seed bread.
A mixed plate of boiled pork, from wiener to jowls to tongue. Spicy mustard and fresh, grated horseradish to dip everything in, with sauerkraut and patate in tecia (background) - a side dish of cooked potatoes mashed with lard and onions - filling in as carbs. There was also a dish of gulasch with potatoes. Meat!! Add to that large mugs of beer and there was no room for anything else except coffee. Great meal to continue the day in shopping...
Related post:
The cuisine in Friuli Labels: Friuli Venezia Giulia
