Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Hiking in Parre (Bergamo) and its famous Scarpinocc

Benvenuti a Parre

We're expanding our horizons (and stomachs) to include the province of Bergamo, specifically the mountains and valleys up north where cheese, pasta, polenta and even the language take on a flavor all its own. From what we've experienced, the vast Bergamo Alps is still largely untouched by foreign tourists as most everyone heads directly to Lake Como from Milan. Depending on your view that may be seen as a good or bad thing, but we hope to reveal some of the beauty on these pages. But first, what is this scarpinocc? I can't recall exactly how I first heard of them, but when the MotH and I walked into a pasta shop and asked if they had any to sell, we were told that the best place to go would be in the village in which they were made famous - Parre. Scarpinocc are a filled pasta (grana, bread crumbs, cinnamon, nutmeg) that resemble those medieval, pointed shoes worn long before rubbah slippahs and sneakers were conceived - think elf footwear and you should have an idea. It is supposed to be the leaner version to Bergamo's meat-filled casoncelli. Well, leaner in theory perhaps, but certainly not when it comes swimming in a pool of browned butter and doused with more grated grana cheese! I believe that Julia Child would have loved this.

Scarpinocc shwimmin' in buttah
For a better look at the pre-boiling stage, see this great image from a flickr user.

Capù con polenta

It was pure luck that the restaurant in Hotel Belvedere (Via Roma, 35) was still serving at 1:30pm because we were so hungry after that 1600+ foot climb that I could've eaten a horse and a half! Here's another dish that I had never heard of - capu - tiny cabbage rolls in tomato sauce on polenta (they don't look like cabbage leaves but that's what the waitress said) filled with bread crumbs, cheese and herbs. Delicious. As a starter we both shared a plate of the house special - a smorgasbord of crunchy, creamy, salty and tangy tastes from land and sea.
Albergo Ristorante Belvedere, Via Roma 35, Parre BG

Antipasto @ Hotel Belvedere

The 496 meter / 1627 foot climb to Sant’Antonio

From the church on via Monterosso at the upper part of Parre (there's a small parking area behind the church), continue along to via Monterosso 6 until you see an arched passage with a large fresco painting above. Walk under the arch and veer left - almost immediately after that there will be a rock path on the right that leads through the woods. Follow this path and continue forward and upward until you reach a parking area and fountain. From here the trail is on paved cement that continues downward to a hairpin bend. Continue on the pavement for a short distance until you see a trail on the left with indications to Rifugio Vaccaro. From here on the thigh-burning begins. There will be 2 crossroads along the way, both with large stables to the right (beware the cow turds). Keep moving forward and upwards, where finally you'll reach an asphalt road that leads to Sant'Antonio as shown below. It took us 90 minutes on the walk up, and 60 on the return. I suggest hiking poles for this because it'll really be tough on the knees getting back.

Parre hiking map

Chiesetta S. Antonio
A rustic church dedicated to St. Anthony is located between the meadows of Mt. Alino.

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Blogger Ciao Chow Linda said...

I've never heard of this pasta but I want a plate of it - in the place where you ate it.

6:20 PM, May 25, 2010  
Blogger natural selection said...

I've been busy! and its nice to see your blog again for inspiration! pictures are beautiful and I can't wait to get to Italy a matter of weeks!
And Rowena thanks for the reminder about Polenta! delicious!

7:37 PM, May 25, 2010  
Blogger Anne in Oxfordshire said...

Hello Rowena .. wow you are having some amazing trips lately, thanks for sharing.. :-)

7:46 PM, May 25, 2010  
Blogger K and S said...

that sounds like a steep trail, and the meal afterwards well deserved!

12:58 AM, May 26, 2010  
Blogger Frizzy and Bird said...

It's raining again here and a bowl of that pasta sure would warm my body and soul right up. Sounds absolutely yummy.

1:38 AM, May 26, 2010  
Blogger RONW said...

"cow pies," Rowena...."cow pies."

5:12 AM, May 26, 2010  
Blogger Rowena... said...

CC Linda - this can only mean one thing...that you love butter just as much as Julia (and myself!)

naturalselection - if by busy you mean to say getting ready for a trip to Italy...carry on!

Anne - it's nice that my limbs don't hurt much anymore. I must be in fairly good shape although my cardiovascular muscles could still use some improvement. Pant, pant, pant, pant...

Kat - the knees, the knees! In my old age I have to be careful so I always bring at least one hiking pole to ease the shock of going down the slope. Going up is all lung and buttwork.

Frizzy & Bird - put butter in, on, with anything and you can never go wrong. ^-^

RONW - when will I ever learn? Certain 4-letter words do not belong on this blog!

8:36 AM, May 26, 2010  
Blogger Fern Driscoll said...

Is there such a thing as a bad stuffed pasta??! These look yummissimo indeed. Hike looks great too. We love the un-touristy parts of the Alps - don't know Bergamo area, but Piemonte Alps are similar, I think. happy trekking.

5:15 PM, May 26, 2010  
Anonymous foodhoe said...

such a feast and elf footwear too!

5:13 PM, May 29, 2010  

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