The most beautiful villages in Italy

If you know where to look, off the beaten track locales are a-plenty in this country. We come across them all the time on hiking trips, Sunday drives, food festival outings and even by word-of-mouth, but what I'd like to start exploring and adding to these pages are a few of the places mentioned in i borghi più belli d'Italia - the most beautiful villages in Italy. The website (also in english) lists locations in criteria of history, art, culture and traditions, and does a fine job of giving pertinent info without sounding like a textbook. As an added plus, it describes local products and dishes that shouldn't be missed when visiting the area. Here's a suggestion for a ½-day tour that is within a short distance from Lecco or Bergamo.

Cornello dei Tasso - birthplace of the first italian mail delivery system

Located less than 20 miles north of Bergamo and east of Lecco, it's best to take the SS470 by way of Bergamo to Camerata Cornello (right exit just before the tunnel). Historical detail for Cornello dei Tasso is under the listing for Lombardia. This tiny village can only be reached by foot; to get there, look for the signs pointing to Museo dei Tasso. At the end of the road lies a small parking area and the short path begins from this point. Stone arcades and a cobblestone street are one of the main features that draw attention from photographers, and I had the feeling of being smack in the middle of a medieval setting for a movie!

Continuing past the village, the almost level trail through partially-shaded woods leads to the hamlet of Oneta; about 35 minutes. It is said to be where the masked character of Arlecchino (Harlequin) was born and a museum is named after him. Taverna Arlecchino serves up some tasty food from what we were told, but we turned around and drove to nearby Val Taleggio in search of the local cuisine. Note: there is a place to eat in Cornello dei Tasso named Trattoria Camozzi, but as they did not allow dogs or served meals outdoors, we had to find somewhere else for lunch. Their suspended sign looks so promising!

You must try schisöl

Also spelled without the "s" in front. We chanced upon the restaurant at Albergo della Salute in the Taleggio valley and schisöl was on the menu. Okay, I know a pronunciation is in order but this is hard because it's dialect so here goes: shki-suhl. Now say that 10x real fast. It's taleggio cheese wrapped in polenta and heated over coals or on the stove. You can see just some of that cheese oozing out in the photo, and it came served with a saute of wild forest mushrooms. It was so GOOD! Taleggio is a soft, buttery cow's milk cheese - great as part of a cheese tasting - but this is the first that I've heard of it being enveloped in polenta.

The meal got even better with a beautiful plate of cured meats (prosciutto, pancetta, salame), served with a trio of pickled and oil-preserved veggies. For non-carnivores, vegetarian options are also on the menu. Still, I highly suggest the cheese plate for a taste of branzi, strachitunt and taleggio (clockwise from top in the image below). Yes we cut off the crusts, but ate the whole lot with thick smears of dense honey and wild cherry preserves. Fruit and cheese...what a combo. A ¼ carafe of bonarda wine to complete the meal and for the finale, a slice of rose cake (I think it was more for the uneven design on top - there was no rose syrup flavor that I could determine). Espresso to close the feast before heading back home to the chestnut forest.

Procession of the Persephones in Bova (Calabria)

Domenica delle Palme - Palm Sunday. Although it's been ages since I've even given a thought about the Sunday before Easter, vague childhood memories are still able to recall two slender palm leaves given to each family in our local parish. Once at home, the old fronds were pulled down (from above the entrance that opened into the kitchen), and the new ones, crossed one over the other, were taped in the very same spot. In Italy, olive branches are usually distributed since palm trees aren't as widely available, but apart from the foliage, there isn't much difference in what takes place during Palm Sunday...unless you're in the town of Bova.

Persephone - Goddess of Spring and Innocence

Located at a little over 800 meters above sea level, Bova's rich and intricate history reveals itself when you come upon the event of the Processione delle Persephoni. Held each year on Palm Sunday, the goddesses in question are beautifully crafted creations in the likeness of the female form. Fashioned out of reeds and olive leaves, each stecche as they are called, involves a great deal of labor, with at least an hour for the scheletro - the skeleton or framework - and a day for the time-consuming weaving and addition of the leaves. The finished puppets or pupazze are then adorned with multi-colored ribbons, fruits, flowers, spring vegetables, olives...all of which are symbolic of spring's pledge for abundance and fertility. It is important to note that these figures used to be made only by the men of all participating villages, never women. At 4:23, the elderly gentleman tells of how it used to be like a challenge between the giovanotti, the young men. He recalls how they decorated with cheese, pendants, whatever they could think of, in a contest to build the most ornate figure of them all. Nowadays, the tradition is practiced by the town's youth, in effect teaching and instilling in them a sense of identity with ties to their cultural past.

And what comes of the puppets at the end? They are taken apart, the adornments distributed to bystanders to protect homes and farms from the likes of rats and bad weather, but also to counter the evil eye by virtue of magic-religious practices. Leaves from the previous year are never thrown out but burned, and at 8:16, the woman tells of what elderly folk do in order to ward off the evil eye - they place some hot embers into a pot, along with three olive leaves and 3 grains of rock salt and "smoke out" the house.

I only recently learned of this event and would have gone to see it for myself were it not for the 840+ mile distance. Bova is listed among the most beautiful bourgs in Italy, and while the video is lengthy, it is worth viewing for an altogether unique and virtually unknown slice of life in the area of the southernmost tip of Italy's boot.

In the event of an error message, the video can be viewed here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pl_l7vy4aE

The weather in Italy in March

The weatherman didn't say anything about hail!, originally uploaded by Rubber Slippers In Italy.

That's in prealpine northern Italy (we're just under 60 miles due south of the Swiss border). The dogs flipped out over the thunder, but were totally baffled by the little hard ice balls falling on the ground. If you have sun at yours, don't rub it in...

Clooney Travolta speaks italian

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pdjfgYzKwE

This isn't the first time that John has done italian commercials - Ah, sei perfetta! (you're perfect) - and I bet it won't be the last. Does he even have a movie out? Everything these days is George, George, and George. Give Clooney a break, he's a busy man. John is just as good, and he looks like a big teddy bear!

Another care package from Japan!

I have to give Kat (from Our Adventures in Japan) loads of credit for braving the italian postal system. In October of last year, she sent over a care package full of japanese goodies to brighten our long and cold winter. Figuring that it wouldn't hurt to "test" our postal system again, this time she sent beer from a local brewery. Sorry to say that one of the bottles broke (the box and filler absorbed everything), but this remaining W-IPA, a double India Pale Ale from Minoh Brewery, will be toasted to Kat & Satoshi on the next pizza takeout. You can read more about her visit to Minoh Beer here. Mille grazie Kat!

Pictures of italian kitchens

Scavolini kitchen (before the *stuff*), originally uploaded by Rubber Slippers In Italy.

I dug up this old photo that was taken when we had just moved into our home...that was almost 5 years ago. Needless to say, our kitchen does NOT look like this now. You buy this (the gelato machine), you buy that (the extra wide pot to make an enormous amount of cacciucco), and before you realize it, lots and lots of *stuff* is stacked all over the place. In fact, if I knew then what I know now, I'd have told the realtor that la cucina was just too small for a family of two. Mr. MotH, can we sell and move to Marche or Umbria? Please???

Dreaming of that perfect italian kitchen? Here are a few links to my favorite designers, including one german store that I had seen recently on our way to Bergamo. Cookies need to be enabled at some sites to view english version.

Scavolini
Ernestomeda
Snaidero
LUBE
Giemmeggi
Hacker (german kitchen)

Updated: And for those curious about very, VERY old-fashioned italian kitchens, the Museo Etnografico in Valtorta has an impressive collection of farm and household items from way before electricty was invented. Well worth a visit if in the area. Museo Etnografico (italian)

Day after the spring equinox

It is thick fog as I type this, but at least the temperature is holding steady at a coolish 10°C. Maddie won't even go out on the terrace to say hi to our poodle-mix canine neighbor.

Would You Pay 2500€ For A Turkey?

White Turkey, originally uploaded by Just chaos / CC BY 2.0

I didn't think so. That is, unless it layed golden eggs on an hourly basis and didn't attack your mother-in-law whenever she brought over stuffed turkey rolls. Gobble gobble gobble!

La Giostra del Pitu | The Turkey Joust

In La Giostra del Pitu, the first person on horseback to beat the head off the turkey wins! Initially I had wanted to attend this but the event had become embroiled in so much controversy that sadly, it looks like another piece of old Italy going the way of the dodo bird. Modern “opinion” had deemed it such a repulsive affair that an animal rights group has offered to remedy the situation with a 2500€ substitute at their own expense. Hmmm... that's one very expensive piñata? As gruesome and barbaric in which beheading a dead turkey might sound, this occasion is one of those ancient rituals that continued, or at least has tried, to peacefully carry on in the face of “civilized” opposition, even if said opposition appears to be more like ripe candidates for the loony bin themselves. On the 3rd Sunday of March in the the town of Tonco, Piemonte, a mock trial is staged where a live turkey is accused, tried and found guilty for all of last year's misfortunes (see note). He is then replaced with a body double from the butcher's and hung upside down in the town square. While the crowd looks on, riders on horseback take turns at trying to beat its lifeless head off with a stick. Well, it used to be a dead turkey until repeated pressure from animalisti forced town authorities to relent to using a dummy bird. [Note: regarding old traditions, placing the blame on something or someone is standard pagan practice where agriculture, rebirth of the land or appeasement of the gods is concerned. This the first time where it is not the effigy of a witch or an old woman.]

I don't see what the problem is. It's a DEAD turkey, bought for probably what? 15-20 euros? And the activists are willing to donate a fake 2500€ substitute (what the hell is that thing made of anyway) at their expense??? How much good would 2500€ do in Haiti? For earthquake victims in Chile? Ooh! And at the animal shelter for abused and unwanted live creatures?!?

An update on Tonco's community website gave notice that yesterday's turkey joust was called off due to bad weather. It will be postponed until further notice. I think the Gods are very, very displeased.

Source: http://www.comune.tonco.at.it/Web-comuni-new/Default.aspx?comune=Tonco (cookies required)

It's a dog's life (rated PG)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elcgCd_1zD4

Date le ingiustizie sofferte dai gatti e cani dappertutto nel mondo, penso che questo video sia molto divertente, anche se un po' imbarazzante.

Given the injustices suffered by cats and dogs all over the world, I think this video is very funny, although a little embarrassing.

Zeppole di San Giuseppe? Nah! Give me pasticciotto!

Have you ordered your zeppole yet? Saint Joseph's Day/Festa del Papà is just 2 days away and I'm certain that the best bakeries in town are cranking out pastry shells by the hundreds. Last year I made napoli-style zeppole that called for the addition of cooked potatoes, and the year before that I made the more decandent ones that are like baked and fried bignè. Well, this year is going to be different, waaay different, because earlier in the week when I was planning my dream eating tour in the southernmost region of Puglia, I came across a baked treat that had me foot-slapping my slippahs on the floor with glee. Are you ready for this? It's called the Pasticciotto Obama! This item is a brainstorm idea from a pastry chef that took the traditional pasticciotto (double-crusted sugar dough tartlet with vanilla pastry cream) and turned it into something presidential with the magic touch of chocolate.

Think tiny chocolate cream pies with a flake-tender top crust (chocolate) instead of whipped cream. Imagine a rich and silky chocolate cream oozing between bites of buttery chocolate crumb. That gastronomic tour to Puglia may need to be put on hold for awhile, so I worked out a chocolate dough recipe that is really easy to put together. I didn't have the time to convert amounts into american measurements, so if you find the equivalents, keep in mind that this will make approximately 15 miniature tarts.

200 grams all-purpose flour
80 grams granulated sugar
2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
pinch salt
100 grams cold butter, cut into small dice
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1-3 teaspoons cold milk
1/2 recipe of your favorite chocolate pudding/cream pie filling recipe

Combine flour, sugar, cocoa powder and salt in a large bowl. Add the diced butter and using a pastry blender, cut the butter into the flour mixture until evenly crumbed. Add the beaten egg and a teaspoon of the milk. Using your fingertips, work together quickly (adding more milk if necessary) until the dough comes together and holds without falling apart. The texture should be that of a medium-firm sugar dough. Place in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes before using. Prep tartlet forms with cooking spray if using non-stick or improperly seasoned tins.

Roll out to a little less than 1/4-inch thickness (4mm) and line individual tart pans. Fill with cold chocolate pudding, just within the top of the rim, and press to enclose with another rolled section of top crust. Brush tops with eggwash and with a toothpick, poke 2 or 3 holes to allow steam to escape. Bake at 375°F for approximately 15-20 minutes.

Are You Getting Your 5-a-Day?

Kiwi sullo stecco, originally uploaded by Rubber Slippers In Italy.

With Michelle Obama's Let's Move campaign to promote a healthier way of nourishing our kids, it almost looks as if McDonald's in Italy has taken a step forward and jumped on the health wagon too. How about kiwi on a stick? Not such a terrible idea right? Individually wrapped kiwi sullo stecco (not the one shown here, that was my idea) will be available from March 9th to May 24th at the cost of 1€ each. I already pride myself in eating 5 or more servings of fresh fruit and vegetables each day - the habit sort of stuck after seeing how my inlaws serve a big bowl of fruit after the Sunday meal.

Hiking in Canzo (Como): Rifugio Terz'Alpe

All that snow last Wednesday? Pfffffft! Gone in 2 days like some flailing lightweight when the sun blew into town. By Friday it was a definite go for spring hiking conditions anywhere on a south-facing trail, and this is a fairly easy one (ascent of 317 meters) that I suggest if you're not afraid of the woods. I felt as if someone was watching me...

All kidding aside, there is, or there should be, an area along the path where carved wooden creatures exist in il Sentiero dello Spirito del Bosco (the path of the spirit of the woods). Well, not that I was expecting an Ent-like entity to walk up and start shaking my hand or anything, but we didn't see friendly tree people and probably walked right past in our quest to reach that steaming bowl of polenta and cheese at the end of the road. I suspect that if we had explored the large picnic area at the first stop/info point, this guy with the owl may have willingly posed for my lens.

Photo: www.flickr.com/photos/finny1975 / CC BY-SA 2.0

Getting there

The trailhead to Rifugio Terz'Alpe is a short distance from Canzo at the end of via Gaium [B], but we kept seeing "no entry/parking" signs like these on the way up and thought better to park at the designated areas for visitors [A]. Upon reaching Canzo, look for the "P" on brown street signs to Gajum - ample parking where via Rimembranze and via Gasperi intersect at the cemetary. From there it's only about a 20-minute walk on paved road (uphill of course!) with easy-to-spot GAJUM signs pointing the way. I imagine that this trail is quite popular with families, hikers with dogs, and nature lovers of all ages, thus the need to restrict traffic on weekends when everyone escapes to the mountains to let loose in the woods.

To Rifugio Terz'Alpe

This can be enjoyed as a loop trail - percorso ad anello - tackling thigh-busting Via Per le Alpi on the left and returning by way of Via San Miro. The path initially zigzags through peaceful forest on sun-dappled stones, arriving at the first rest point/info center (40 minutes) where I missed seeing the wood sculptures. From this point, Rifugio Terze'Alpe is a half hour away on flat terrain. The return on via San Miro takes about 45 minutes.

The food

There is nothing like a rustic, hearty meal of polenta taragna (corn and buckwheat polenta), pizzoccheri and cheese made on the premises. Add to that a quarter liter of cheap, local wine and you're set for the lazy stroll back home. The total came to 22€ for 3 plates - cheap! No credit cards or receipt given (i.e. they don't pay taxes???)

Un weekend sotto la neve?

the Little Red Man said Snow, originally uploaded by Rubber Slippers In Italy.

A little late, but this is the snow that we had anticipated for our bagna cauda feast this past Sunday. I'm not complaining. You can never trust the weatherman these days anyway..

Later in the day...

CaTcH Me iF U cAn - VROOOOOSHH!!!

I ain't no TURTLE

George Clooney does speak italian (I think)

Now while many fans appreciate the presence of Clooney in Italia (the actor is a consummate showman), I have often wondered if he ever learned to pick up the language. Whenever he's on italian news it seems to me that reporters always speak to him in english, and of course the media need only call out his name to snap that news-breaking shot. What, he's been in this country for like 7 years or so? Well, for the first time ever I find George saying more than just “ciao”, because at 0:23 he says “Come stai” How are you?

That's a start.

The Carnevale Characters

Pulcinella, originally uploaded by latigi / CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Voi avete chiesto and I found an answer.

Carnevale in Italy may be over for this year, but the information I've recently come across is too useful to wait until the next. Ever wondered who were all of those masked characters during carnevale festivities? I think everyone will easily recognize Arlecchino (the Harlequin), but there are many, many disguised personalities who make up the Commedia dell'arte theater of mid-15th century Italy. I had no idea of the total count until my trusted source of italian trivia (that's my husband aka Man-of-the-House or MotH) found a site that details a long list which also includes characters particular to a specific region. The main page is in italian, but if you click on the names at right, there are both italian and english descriptions. Link: SIPARIO

Radio Arlecchino

And while we're on the topic of masked persons, I strongly suggest this italian grammar website for intermediate students. Learning the passato prossimo (present perfect), passato remoto (past absolute), imperfetto (imperfect) and other verb tenses can be a real pain, but Radio Arlecchino employs an engaging teaching method that involves a few Commedia dell'Arte characters, thus making learning those wretched conjugations fun, if not easier, to grasp. Free pdf transcripts and mp3 audio files are available for download by clicking on the Podcasts link in the navigation bar. They haven't updated since the beginning of December, but what lessons they do have are worth looking into.

Bagna Cauda: Tell me quando, quando, quando

Photo credit: www.flickr.com/photos/abels / CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Hot....bath....anchovies...butter...olive oil....and lots and lots of garlic. Yesterday's snow didn't fall in the chestnut forest like it was supposed to, but I'd be interested to know what the odds are that someone, somewhere, decided to chase the chill by jumping right into a bubbling pot of bagna cauda like that above. Not literally, of course, even though it takes a cast iron stomach and nerves of steel to be able to properly enjoy this potent piemontese specialty. Also spelled bagna caoda (BAHN-yah COW-dah), this "bath hot" is a simple country dish that gathers the bestest of friends when the first nip of autumn hits the air. I've been to one such party in Piemonte years ago and it lasted more than 4 hours, stretching well beyond the midnight hour in a daze of drunken garlic breath and laughter. We have never been able to organize a party at ours because we just don't know of anyone in town who loves garlic and anchovy to the point of reeking for a worthy cause. Do you?

Bagna Cauda for two, just tell me quando quando quando

Because the season for this dish is soon to end. And while I can't say it was Fergie's vocals to get things on a roll, yesterday was as good a time as any to perfume the house. Some cooks will suggest soaking the garlic in milk in order to take away some of the bite but I prefer to skip this step and tackle bagna cauda head on. The most important thing is to cook the sauce on VERY low heat, even if this means standing at the stove and moving your pot on and off the fire to prevent the garlic from browning. Brown garlic = bitter. Not good. For a party of 2 you will need:
• 6 large cloves garlic, peeled and sliced thin
• 1/4 cup butter
• 4-6 anchovy fillets (I use the ones in oil), chopped
• 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• assorted cooked vegetables: topinambur, cardoon, cauliflower, beets, grilled onions
• assorted fresh vegs/fruits: endive, cherry tomatoes, celery sticks, bell peppers, pears
Instructions: Gently melt the butter and add the garlic slices, cooking on a very low flame until softened. Add the anchovies and olive oil. Continue to cook gently until the anchovies fall apart. Remove from heat. If you prefer a smooth sauce, process briefly with a handheld blender. To serve, pour sauce into individual fojòt like the ones below, or keep warm in a fondue-style dish in the center of the table. Pile up the vegetable platters and pour the wine.

Vegetable platter, cured meats (prosciutto, lardo and speck), and lots of bread.

Another reason to love bagna cauda - dipping your food. Forks optional.

And for Gemini's like me who just want it all because we can't make up our minds.

The table is never complete without affettati and olives.

What does Duff beer taste like?

“Mmmmm... beeeeeer”, originally uploaded by Rubber Slippers In Italy.

Blech! Maybe because I made a wrong move in trying this with gorgonzola-potato focaccia and shichimi togarashi chicken sticks. Or perhaps it's the fault of my diminished senses due to a rotten cold, but this beer tastes just shy (sniffs deeply from an empty bottle) of donkey piss. Mind you, that's saying what I would imagine donkey pee to taste like, but after having enjoyed some terrific brews of all colors and flags, the only thing worth mentioning about Duff is the cute label. MotH said something like “Beck's with a sweet aftertaste”. I couldn't even go more than half a glass, it was that bad. Cheap pilsener at an inflated price. Produced in Germany, this is über highway robbery no matter what they say. Simpsonophiles, take note: a 6-pack cost us 17€ worth of donuts. That's just a little over 23 bucks. Doh!

How to say “Hi my name is …” in italian

You ask and I answer. And to set the record straight, it is NOT “Ciao il mio nome è...”

Chiamare | to call

I know I'm not the first to say that a little goes a long way in trying to communicate in a foreign language, but when introducing yourself in italian, it's as simple as 3 words plus your name. Example:
Ciao, mi chiamo Rowena (informal) or Salve, mi chiamo Rowena (formal). Literally it translates to Hi, myself I call Rowena, but once you get the hang of the syntax it becomes easier. Of course after you've introduced yourself, you'll want to ask the other person's name.

What is your name? Come ti chiami? | KOH-meh tee kee-AH-mee (informal)
Literally, How to you/yourself you call?

What is your name? Come si chiama? | KOH-meh see kee-AH-mah (formal)
This is the polite form used when speaking to strangers or persons of authority.

What is his/her/its name? Come si chiama? (Note the example answers given)
His name is Peter. Si chiama Pietro.
Her name is Mary. Si chiama Maria.
Its name is Cousin Itt. Si chiama Cugino Itt.

Italian verbs become even more interesting when used as an imperative or urgent request:
Call the police! Chiama la polizia!
Don't call the police! Non chiamare la polizia!

And then it gets downright confusing when the english-to-italian translation requires a different word to express something correctly. For us, call has a broader meaning but in italian, it's necessary to use a new verb/word altogether:
• I will call you back in a few minutes. Ti richiamo tra un paio di minuti.
(richiamare = to call back)
• It's not nice to call a person names. Non è carino canzonare le persone.
(canzonare = to tease)
• Call your sisters to dinner! Di' alle tue sorelle di venire a cena! (imperative)
Literally, Tell to your sisters to come to dinner. The imperative for dire | DEE-reh (to tell) has a slanted dot above the letter "i". Dì la verita! Tell the truth!

That's it for today, I'm calling it quits.