Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Mister Tulip

Tulip bed

For admirers of the tulip, it's common knowledge that for the ultimate experience in Europe, the Netherlands reign supreme. I've always figured on getting there one day but for those of us in Italy, the Pralormo Castle in Piemonte is where to satisfy your tulipani fix. For the entire month of April the castle rolls out the welcome mat, where thousands upon thousands of blooms become the petalled protagonists of a fanciful display named Mister Tulip. This display is the brainchild of Contessa Consolata, whereupon during a trip to Holland in 1999, she envisioned the family grounds as a lavish setting for dutch tulips and narcissus.

Dh8
Photo credit: gianlu_dc by Flickr | CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Being a fan of tulips myself, I'm looking forward to a visit to the castle. And since this year also marks the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy as a nation-state, the program mentions a tri-colored theme where flower beds will be dedicated to the colors of the italian flag. A garden shop gives the possibility to purchase plants, flowers and pre-order particular bulbs that may have caught your fancy. For more info in pdf format (italian only):
http://www.lovepiemonte.com/messer_tulipano_2011.pdf

Mister Tulip

April 2 - May 1, 2011
Hours: Monday to Friday 10am to 6pm; Saturday, Sunday, holidays 10am to 7pm
Entrance fee: Adults 7.50€, Child 4€ (4-12 years)
Dogs must be on leash

Friday, March 25, 2011

If that be watermelon flavor, then let's have some

We've been having nothing but perfect, sunny weather for the past week, and I'm almost shocked to say that 18°C/64°F is now too hot for me? I was happy with 50°F. The dogs took me for our 4-mile walk up the mountains and we were all panting by the time we got home. Acqua, acqua per favore! I had better start filling the ice trays too. Mister B had better ideas of refreshing himself instead of the bowl of water that I offered him.

Today marks 9 more months until Christmas...

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Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Attention: reading this may add inches to your waistline

So don't tell me I didn't warn you.

Poveri noi! Not even half way into the week upon returning from Alto Adige and already we were facing another long weekend. I know, some people have all the luck. But that's what happens when the 150th anniversary of the Unità d'Italia (unification of Italy as a nation) falls on a Thursday and MotH is obligated to take Friday off...paid vacation of course. Yep, a stroke of good fortune, especially when it amounted to 4 solid days of gastronomic bliss.

Day #1 - Thursday, March 17th: 150 years of the Unità d'Italia

Canederli tricolore

I am patriotic as it gets but only when it comes to the meal part. Okay so I did put out our italian flag weeks before the date, but my head was spinning circles a few days before D-day, or U-day if you wanna be politically correct. Green, white and red food would dominate the table. And flavors from around the boot would even the score. It didn't take much to put this all together but I do remember telling MotH that I really need a bigger kitchen. I present to you the menu of the 150° Anniversario della Unità d'Italia in the chestnut forest:
Tri-colored canederli - large spinach, speck and beet gnocchi served in poppyseed and sage brown butter, and cream sauce spiked with horseradish in that order.
Polpette di tonno - tuna croquettes made with fresh sicilian tuna, dates, pine nuts and mint. Served in a simple tomato sauce and garnished with basil.
Gelato in 3 colors - pistachio, mixed berry and panna (cream). But wait! You can't celebrate 150 years without a cake so voila! An upside-down cake made with sicilian blood oranges.

Polpette di tonno Gelato tricolore Upside-down sicilian blood orange cake

Day #2 - Friday, March 18th: Date Day in Milan

Lunch at Bar della Crocetta

If there can be a date night then why not a date day? I can understand why the MotH doesn't care to go into Milan. He has had enough of city air since his days at the university, but when my husband sees me using street view on google maps, pushing that little yellow man inch by inch through Milan's busy lanes, it means time to take the wife out of the cave. There is one place that reminded him of his youth - Bar della Crocetta - and it would be here that I would be introduced to a sandwich in a cup. This panino shop has been putting stuff between 2 pieces of bread since forever, their signature item being the panino in coppa. Cooked ham and melted cheese are the main components - too bad it didn't measure up to the ones he devoured some 20 odd years ago (he said back then there was so much melted cheese in there that you used a soup spoon to get it out...not a long teaspoon). The menu boasts 12 dozen+ varieties of sandwiches, all with cheese, 5 varieties of panini in coppa, and a couple dozen varieties of panini semplici (simple sandwiches). Simple? I guess that would mean no cheese. A fun, nostalgic experience but at 10€ for a sandwich...well whaddya think?

Day #3 - Saturday, March 19th: Festa del Papà | Father's Day

Festa del Papà 3.19

MotH's parents would be thrilled if we could lunch at their's more often, so we try to reserve special holidays just for them alone. Father's Day is just one of them, and like the majority of italian mamas, the queens of the kitchen will rise to the occasion with a comforting meal. Tagliatelle and cooked prosciutto in tomato cream sauce, roast beef, chicken and prosciutto roll-ups and a dish of stewed mixed vegetables. This year I had flat out forgotten about the traditional zeppole di San Giuseppe treats, but the vanilla pudding in caramel sauce that my mom-in-law made was just as satisfying.

Festa-del-Papà 3.19

Day #4 - Sunday, March 20th: I cook brunch in my sheep pajamas

Sleepy sheep pajamas

While we wait for spring to really take hold in the chestnut forest, Sunday mornings mean waking up as late as we like then puttering around the yard later. I took this one step further and refuse to get out of my jammies until after brunch. Yeah brunch, it's alla moda in Milano right now but what those people don't realize is that brunch is better (it's sexy!) when you make it yourself. I'd love to invite my inlaws over for brunch, but I believe it would upset my mother-in-law too much for the fact that she ain't the one cooking - and that I'm still in my sleepwear. Lucky me that MotH doesn't care as long as I don't start a fire in the kitchen.

Sunday brunch 3.20

The rule of thumb is to clean out the fridge. Fresh fruit and yogurt is part of our daily diet so a plate of leftover speck, cornichons and buttery tuscan zolfino beans was a bonus. A small selection of cheeses and hot pepper jelly, wholegrain sunflower seed bread for more variety. Affunniatelle (a molisan dish of gently stewed onions, tomatoes, deseeded sweet green peppers, parsley, basil, chile pepper and scrambled or coddled egg) for vegetables and oh, a soft-yolk egg on fried rice. By the way, we washed all of this down with red wine.

Affunniatelle Egg on fried rice

Monday, March 21, 2011

Beyond the Clouds on the Strada del Vino/Weinstrasse

Elena Walch wine-tasting

A trip to Alto Adige wouldn't be complete without bringing home some local food and drink, and the emphasis this time would be on the drink. Our gasthof was within very close range to the Strada del Vino (Wine Route that begins north in Nalles and goes all the way down to Salorno then back up to Bolzano), so we made time for a little wine-tasting at a couple of local producers. The first, Elena Walch, is located in Termeno (where the Egetmann Parade takes place). I'll always be a "red" gal but Walch's Beyond the Clouds Grand Cuvée was a heavenly revelation. It's made from several classic South Tyrolean white grape varieties, primarily Chardonnay, but the color, flavor and floral notes were so impressive that the Ludwig Pinot Noir and Istrice Cabernet tastings were made insignificant by comparison. Unfortunately, Beyond the Clouds was available only in magnum sizes (1.5 liter) at the time of our visit and for a dear 69€/bottle. http://www.elenawalch.com

Cortaccia wine-tasting

The next stop was two towns over at Cortaccia's social agricultural cooperative winery, and I appreciated how the clerk suggested that we taste the white wines first (the ones that we were interested in), then follow up with the reds. Again, there was no denying the superiority of the premium reds and whites, but then it all depends on personal taste. I just loved seeing all those glasses lined up, and am already planning for another Alto Adige visit in summer or fall. Website: http://www.kellerei-kurtatsch.it

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Sunday, March 20, 2011

The Egetmann Parade in Termeno

Egetmannumzug_25

Through my observations I have come to know Carnevale (the local costume and/or float parade of any given italian village or city), Carnevale (the uniquely special, one-of-a-kind extravaganzas based on old tradition, such as the Carnevale in Bagolino), and of course, Carnevale (naturally the one in Venice - the most famous of them all).

And then there's the Egetmann Parade.

Held only on odd-numbered years and always on Fat Tuesday, Termeno's carnevale draws an unbelievable amount of visitors as it is said to be the biggest and the best in the province of Bolzano. Participants are all men - yes that would be a HE under the wig and frock - and perhaps it is for this that the energy level was pushed above and beyond optimum peak. We arrived early at around 11am to nab a choice spot for photo ops, and then we waited it out until the whole thing commenced an hour or so later. There were food booths selling krapfen, beer, sandwiches, wine and wurstel. Characters called the Burgl and Burgltreiber, a couple with faces painted black, ran amok through the streets, gleefully smearing black makeup on the faces of unsuspecting spectators (like us). If I had known about this beforehand I could've been prepared...like those who strolled into town with confidence, although appearing as if they had just got done sweeping out the chimney.

At the Egetmannumzug, the joke's on you!

Egetmannumzug_08

Being forewarned, however, wouldn't have necessarily meant being forearmed, because no amount of internet info could've possibly saved my dignity after the chance encounter with the Mad Doctors. One minute I was snapping pics and the next I was being told to get ready to "push" while my birthing instructor stuck a lollipop and squirted some kind of alcoholic drink in my mouth. MotH was ordered to take photos and yes, I gave birth to a black child and there was nothing that I could do about it except to say OMIGOD! (The doctors were speaking in german but then in unison they started saying Omigod! Omigod! Omigod!).

Egetmannumzug_07

Here come the Schnappvieh!

Without a doubt the true carnevale stars of the show are the bopping, hopping, no-stopping Schnappvieh, also called Wudele. These tall, jaw-snapping beasts generated a frenetic beat so palpitating that I could not get them out of my head (my sleep!) later that evening. This is just a short clip of them but I'll be uploading unedited footage in its entirety over at youtube.


In the event of an error message, the video can be viewed here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_e1GXiXeS0

More photos at my Egetmann Parade flickr album
Unedited video at youtube (5:36)
Official website of the Egetmann Parade: http://www.egetmann.com
English version: http://www.egetmann.com/03%20Seiten/14English.1.htm

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Tuesday, March 15, 2011

Staying in Alto Adige with the half board option

How do you lodge when traveling? Half board, full board or b & b? We've never gone with pensione completa (full board with breakfast, lunch & dinner) and rarely ever mezza pensione (half board with breakfast & dinner), because bed & breakfast options work better for the way we like to explore Italy. Tasting a region's local cuisine via Slow Food recommendations is half the thrill of running around this country in the first place, but sometimes it can be to our disadvantage if trattoria “X” is way off the beaten track and we're spent from a whole day of touring. Only under such probable circumstances would I even consider half board for the entire duration of a visit, so imagine my interest when the gasthof's proprietress replied with room rates and added “..sarei lieta di viziarVi con la mia cucina per un paio di giorni.” [I would be glad to spoil you with my cooking for a couple of days.] Spoil me?! Mezza pensione at 45€ each per day was a done deal without having to think twice.

Compared to the usual cappuccino-and-brioche standard that I've grown accustomed to since moving here, the first meal of the day in Alto Adige is a big deal. We started with coffee and hot milk, fresh yogurt, muesli, wholegrain bread, butter, an assortment of homemade jams (tart plum, strawberry, raspberry, blueberry, persimmon to name a few), sliced cheese and cured meats (produced by the proprietor) and fresh fruit for the taking right from the fruit bowl centerpiece. It's a shame that I don't have a huge appetite first thing in the morning (lots of coffee though), because a girl could love to eat like this if she weren't so full from the night before. Dinners were a genuine surprise with the chef's use of herbs and spices. I noticed that we began with a fresh salad of a few mixed greens seasoned with olive oil and vinegar. I haven't experienced this much elsewhere in Italy as the salad comes as a contorno alongside the second plate (fish, meat, etc). Primi first courses ran the gamut from beetroot bread gnocchi canederli in a light cream sauce barely suggesting of horseradish, freshly made tagliatelle with wild mushrooms, creamy leek soup hinting of basil and parsley, and short pasta with speck, radicchio, cream and a hint of green peppercorns. Secondi courses were no less tantalizing, with the veal medallions on mushroom risotto still in my memory, and finally the homemade desserts of which a semifreddo beguilingly flavored with a syrup of young pine buds blowing my tastebuds away. And of course you can't go a day in Trentino-Alto Adige without coming across a slice of apple studel!

Apple strudel

So where are all the food photos? All stored away in my head, sorry to say. Since were being spoiled at Fichtenhof I left my camera in the room and enjoyed every bite without having to “pose” each dish for the sake of this blog. I did, however, snap pics of my bäckerei stash from a Coop grocery in Salorno. The best new thing that I tasted? A pastry called lumachina that resembles a cinnamon roll but is filled with a sweet poppy seed mixture.

You say bakery, I say bäckerei

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Monday, March 14, 2011

The silent bell tower at Lago Resia

Bell tower at Lago Resia

If it weren't for this partially submerged campanile we probably wouldn't have gone the extra distance to Alto Adige's far western end in Val Venosta (Austria's border was only 3+ miles away). I've seen photos of the bell tower when the lake was not frozen over, so experiencing it in winter with the pleasure of getting right up close was - how should I describe it - cooler than cool? The tower belonged to Graun village that was flooded to build a dam, and legend says that you can still hear the bells ring during winter (even if they've been removed long ago). With the mountains as a backdrop, Lago Resia is a magical place.

Glorenza: one of the most beautiful villages in Val Venosta

Riedl BäckereiItaly is “choked” with beautiful, old villages, but some stand out a little better than others especially when listed in I Borghi più Belli d'Italia. I'm going to come clean and say that my primary intent was to visit Riedl, the bakery with the irresistible golden bretzel/pretzel for a shop sign. It is so delightfully european, but unfortunately when we arrived the doors were closed for lunch. The up side to all this is that with no bakery to dive into, we took a longer time strolling around the village's medieval walls, appreciating the chance to admire Glorenza during low season when there aren't too many tourists.

Outside Glorenza's village walls

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Friday, March 11, 2011

The Living Cathedral at Malga Costa in Trentino

Cattedrale vegetale - Malga Costa

If this looks a little bit familiar you might remember our visits to La Cattedrale Vegetale on Monte Arera (Bergamasc Alps) last September and December. This one in Trentino province is much bigger, and an additional 45 works of natural artistic display is spread out among the two separate areas of the park. Admission fee is 5€; kids up to 10 years get in free. If we could've spared another couple of hours we would've also walked the exhibition route that begins a few kilometers just before Malga Costa (no extra cost).

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Thursday, March 10, 2011

Alto Adige in late winter

Strada del vino | Weinstrasse

We're back (since yesterday), and completely beat (I gave birth, the MotH took pictures), and now the laundry and the house needs to be reorganized before I can tackle the 300 photos and video footage of all that we saw, did and then some within the span of 3 days.

Coming up...
The Living Cathedral in Trentino (since it was on the way)
Lago Resia and the bell tower in the lake (it's fun walking on water)
You want the real Alto Adige experience? Go for the half board (mezza pensione) option
The Egetmann Parade in Termeno (where all hell broke loose)
On the Strada del Vino/Weinstrasse for a precious sip of Beyond the Clouds

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Thursday, March 03, 2011

Road trip Alto Adige: 8 things to look forward to

As it was for yesterday, today's outlook is cold and damp but the snow has stopped and I'm already seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. A trip to the western part of Alto Adige has been in the works for some time, but unless the suv comes home from the mechanic with a clean bill of health, these 8 things will be ones worth waiting for.

#1 Stunning scenery

Pandoro Dolomitico
Pandoro Dolomitico by RossoGialloBianco / CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

#2 Castles

Castel Coira
Castel Coira by Janfe75 / CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

#3 Bäckerei


Photo credit: lorello / CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

#4 and their baked goods

Bretzel
Bretzel by Lisa Goudzwaard / CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

#5 Home to some of the most beautiful villages in Italy

Glorenza
Glorenza by Satoshi.A / CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

#6 even some submerged ones

Lago di Resia
Lago di Resia by Kliò / CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

#7 Traditions

Schuhplattler Steinegg - Gli "Schuhplattler" di Collepietra
Schuhplattler by Kurverwaltung Meran / CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

#8 and Carnevale

carnevale
carnevale by luigioss / CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Wednesday, March 02, 2011

My dachshund collects rocks

Testing youtube's direct post-to-Blogger feature.

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