A Happy Halloween break (Kauai posts tomorrow)

For each year that passed since moving here, Halloween has become less and less of a date to celebrate and more of a wake-up call to start organizing for the holiday season. I'll usually carve one pumpkin at the last minute and that's it, but this past weekend we picked up a themed cake and sicilian cannoli before popping over to my inlaws for the seasonal tradition of feasting on cassoeula - the heavy, hearty, gut-busting cabbage and pork dish that sits like a bomb in your stomach but makes you feel oh so satisfied after 2 or 3 helpings. Mamma always makes plenty so that we can take some home with us, and sometimes I'll stretch it a bit by adding stock and turning it into a thick soup when the forecast says snow.

So....funny that I should even let Halloween come and go without fuss as my neighbor just rang to invite us to a party. Cosa fai stasera? What are you doing tonight? When she asks me stuff point blank like that with an almost mischievious look on her face, I know that a wild party is about to take place. Oh, is that my Gemini party antennae quivering in anticipation? I better dust off the broom, iron my cape and ready myself for the river of alcohol that will be flowing tonight. Heck, maybe I'll even be coherent enough to pull off a few pictures.

Hiking the Honopu Ridge Trail on Kauai

During the whole time that we were on Kauai, the days were nothing short of hiking weather perfection that had us jonesing for the first chance to hit the trails. And as much as we love all-day, long-distance treks that alpine Italy offers, scrambling through high-altitude brush or mosquito-infested tropical forests can be a mini-adventure in itself with such awesome locations that instantly conjure images of Jurassic Park and King Kong. Kauai's individual trails are relatively short-distance endeavors, but terrain conditions and maze-like twists and turns will tally up the minutes even on the best of days.

The MotH and myself along with my son and his girlfriend hiked the Honopu Ridge the day after the big family luau (good way to burn off all those calories). Orange and/or pink ribbons mark the way and lightweight pants or a beach towel wrapped around your midriff protect legs from the very scratchy brush that invades this path. These pictures don't amount to much in capturing how breath-taking the scenery is, but they give an idea on what type of environment to expect for those who have never hiked up in Kokee. For trail details, I refer to the following link: www.hawaii-guide.com/kauai/spot/honopu_ridge_trail

And after you've sweated a bucketload what do you dig into? Some apple pie from Yumi's in Waimea (best to get yours early then reheat in the oven) and vanilla bean ice cream.

Kauai ohana luau: piling it on the plate

There's only a very slight difference between these 2 plates but one thing is blatantly missing and I leave it up to you to guess what it is. [Uhm...uhm...errrrr....OH!] That was easy, right? I don't know if it was a slip-up on the part of the menu coordinator OR the price tag of the missing item (I paid $5.39+tax for a pound of it), but I'm sure I wasn't the only one who noticed that it went lacking on the smorgasbord of foods. For the desserts, family members were asked to contribute a dish and I made about 40 mini cannoli even if I should've planned ahead for more. The cannoli shells were brought over from Italy but since there is no sheep's milk ricotta on Kauai, I had to make do with plain ricotta, cream cheese and diced candied fruits. I couldn't believe my eyes when they disappeared in minutes. Buon appetito fo' real.

Kauai ohana luau: kalua pig!

We would gladly return to the islands more often if our circumstances allowed it, but a long overdue family reunion is what made this trip so important to put together. MotH has never experienced the evergrowing multitude that is my family, so to finally meet this aunty and that uncle and and that wild cousin who put the pedal to the metal when he and his wife drove through Italy - he was either stopped by the carabinieri or the polizia - well those sort of things are what being married into our ohana is all about. Thanks to my influence, the MotH, I might add, can understand and speak a small amount of pidgin english, so to have my immediate family members hear this haole talking local with an italian accent was a good experience in bi-cultural communication. It's a case of sink or swim, and just for the record, they all thought he sounded pretty cool.

Memories of the making of kalua pig (a whole hog cooked in an underground pit) stretch back from so very long ago that what I recall is rather sketchy. There was the large and deep pit/imu in the ground; the hot lava rocks; the one-shot kill to the pig (sometimes two); the gutting and cleaning of the carcass; and the uncles and older cousins who worked hard to make it all happen. The prized moment was getting to taste some crispy pork skin after the imu was unearthed, and a few hours later the great feast would begin. Well these days the process is simplified whereas there is no hole in the ground to be dug. Instead, a large metal crate is placed above hot rocks on the ground, and within that crate will be the pig along with a few hot rocks plus a turkey or two. Everything is covered with sheets of foil, banana leaves, burlap sacks and lastly a heavy-duty plastic tarp. The edges of the tarp is then "sealed" by burying the perimeter in dirt, and the insulated heat is what cooks the porky goodness to perfection.

I'm so glad we were able to see the pig - or what became of it - being taken out. This was a first for MotH and my brother-in-law, but to see my cousins in action once again takes me back to those days long ago when kalua pig meant it was done in the traditional imu manner.

Removing the dirt from around the edges.

Removing the tarp.

Next up is removing burlap bags and banana leaves.

Employing thick hooks, the crate is lifted off of the hot stones to a raised platform area.

Pork cooked until it literally falls of the bone. Note the lava rock in one corner.

After removing all bones, the kalua pork is scooped up into insulated coolers.

The rocks are shoveled and set off to the side and stored until the next large party calls for kalua pig!

Kauai's beaches, beach walks, beach dogs, beach eats

Brennecke's Beach, originally uploaded by Rubber Slippers In Italy on Flickr

I had all of these ambitious (read: unrealistic) plans for outdoor rec activities while we were on Kauai, but in the end what we did most is a thing that every visitor dreams of doing as soon as they touch ground: go to the beach. It might come as a surprise that I'm really not much of a sand and surf person anymore, but the MotH being where he's from, was more than ready to slip into a temporary lifestyle as beach bum.

The beaches that we went to are all accessible by Kauai's public transport which is how we wanted to get around if a car wasn't absolutely necessary. One in particular - Kealia Beach - is part of the Kapa'a coastal path, a 4.1 mile paved walkway perfect for walkers, joggers and bicycle riders. Kapa'a town is on the eastside of Kauai and home to funky cool coffee shops and breakfast joints, but it is this shoreline path that makes it stand out from the rest of the island as it is the only one at the moment.

Hanalei Bay

Friendly dog (she came and plopped her a** on my towel) at Kealia Beach.

Kuna Bay at the end of the Kapa'a Coastal Trail.

End of trail sign.

From Da Imu Hut in Hanapepe. Two scoops white rice, mac salad and teri-fried chicken. Ono! (Best with beer).

Sky Squawk: adventures with ESTA, CBP, TSA, AA and BA

Kauai's unofficial island mascot, originally uploaded by Rubber Slippers In Italy on Flickr

It was just three years ago when I last handed over a boarding pass, but what with the introduction of body imaging scans, the negative reaction from the flying public, unfavorable media coverage regarding this, and of course one man's failed attempt at blowing up his underpants, the idea of a trip back to the islands was more apprehensive than appealing. I've done the long-haul from here to there several times since moving to Italy in 2003, but as of late, I really, REALLY dread any flight more than a couple of hours. Flying from London to LAX and vice versa was always the worst part (10-11 hours), but stepped up security measures put me on edge until we planted our butts on the plane to Kauai.

I suppose it all started with ESTA (Electronic System for Travel Authorization), the fairly recent security measure put into effect for non-US passport holders. Airline passengers planning travel to the United States under the Visa Waiver Program (VWP) are subject to ESTA, and this meant that MotH now had to apply for/be cleared/pay fee of 14 bucks to obtain the go ahead before even setting foot on the friggin' plane. Being married to a US citizen meant squat and the encounter at the British Airways check-in confirmed this. In fact, MotH was asked if had a green card, but when we replied that he had ESTA it was all they needed to know. The application process (online only) was quick and easy, including yes or no questions that will determine the outcome of a request. My only gripe is what's stated even if authorization is approved as it did nothing to calm pre-flight jitters! I quote verbatim: “This does not guarantee admission to the United States; a Customs and Border Protection officer at a port of entry will have the final determination.” Web: https://esta.cbp.dhs.gov/esta/

CBP - Customs and Border Protection. Thumbs up to the much-improved customs area in LAX. My memories of this part of flying into the states has always been chaotic, but they revamped the receiving room (everything looked new) and I discovered that foreigners can join their american spouses in either the US citizen or visitor line. We went into the visitor line since it was shorter. Now this is where it got interesting because after the usual questions, MotH had to be fingerprinted four times. First 4 fingers on the right hand, right thumb; first 4 fingers on the left hand, left thumb. He then had to look at some sort of machine that took an image of his eyes? It all happened so very fast that you had no chance of even thinking “Whoa Nelly!” before being sent on your merry little way. Foreign travelers, now you know what to expect.

TSA - Transportation Security Administration. Generally known as security checkpoints anywhere else. Mention TSA and it always seems to open an overflowing can of worms, so I'm putting in my 2 pennies worth of what I've found to be uneventful procedures every time I've flown back to Hawaii. This trip I did the body scan for the first time ever in LAX! At both LAX and Kauai airports, TSA officers were super nice. Really, I thought these guys were supposed to be a**holes. Am I just fortunate to not be flying into the nasty places?

AA - American Airlines. They continue to be a reliable carrier although I don't travel enough to accumulate frequent flyer points to make a difference. They're included here for the food pics (what else?) and to say that the long-haul route from London to Los Angeles was fine.

Chicken and rice dinner.

Lasagna dinner and a focaccia-type snack.

BA - British Airways. I still need to file a claim for our one piece of luggage that never left Italy with us, only to arrive 3 days later. Still, the 2nd blow to come our way is that BA no longer gives free socks and sleep masks on their long-haul flights. I've flown with them for years because yes, all those little perks do stand out in my book and I'm willing to skip Expedia deals in favor of lovely Brit hospitality. Now you get a toothbrush, toothpaste and a breath mint. Sad to see how budget expense cuts have affected all airlines, but a 300€ difference in airfares will make me hop onto United/Lufthansa the next time.

Breakfast Box before landing in Heathrow (from LAX). I stuck this into my bag and forgot all about it when checking into the flight from London to Italy. Set off the alarm at the security checkpoint but got to keep my goodies.

The luau is over - we're heading back!

When a layover of 9 hours stares you in the face before stepping aboard an 11 hour flight, the Admirals Club rocks in more ways than I can say.

Well we made it...

Kalihiwai Beach, originally uploaded by Rubber Slippers In Italy on Flickr.

But not the one piece of luggage that was checked in, and it is already 26 hours after arriving on Kauai at 9pm on Sunday (now it is 11pm Monday). It should be arriving on Tuesday at 1pm and then another hour's wait for baggage service to deliver it to where we are staying.

There are worse things to be aggravated about other than no extra clothes to change into after being in the same outfit for over 24 hours, going through several different time zones, and sitting out a total of 18 hours of flight time in the air, but to be told that our luggage never even left Linate, Italy??? WTF? We weren't late in checking in so I can't understand why no one ever noticed a stray bag hanging around until I filed a lost luggage claim. I am so seething at British Airways for causing such inconvenience; first day of holiday wasted on running around in Walmart just for essentials alone. GRRRRRR!

Via Flickr:
Kalihiwai Beach on Kauai's north shore.

More later from the other side of the world

Spam musubi, hot malasadas, hawaiian lunch plate, fresh fish, fresh fruit, farmers markets, Kauai Bus, waterfalls, hiking in tropical forests, Hamura Saimin, sandy beaches, bodysurfing, Poipu, bonfires, camping, wild chickens, hole-in-the-wall eateries, Hanalei, rubbah slippahs, plumeria leis, big cockaroaches, Polihale, pidgin english, Da kine, monk seals, luau, ukulele, hula dancers, pakalolo (just kidding), cold beer, pipikaula, ahi poke, outta time, gotta go!

Where to eat after a day of hiking above Lecco

Really, would it hurt to add atleast a couple of signs pointing the way to a decent meal? From the first day when MotH took me on a hike in his home country, I learned immediately that when you walk in these mountains, the grub du jour was polenta: polenta with gobs of melted cheese, with forest mushrooms, with deer or wild boar ragu. A variation of it is always on the menu in all of the rifugi (mountain huts) and while it may take some getting used to for light-weights, once you get the feel for alpine living, there is nothing more delicious to dig into after a day on the trails.

There were no such mountain huts where we were hiking on Saturday, so come dinner time we went to our new favorite place for casual dining - Santa Polenta. Santa Polenta is not the italian cousin to Santa Klaus - it's just an expression of surprise that goes along the lines of Holy Moly! This polenteria is packed on weekends (reservations a must), but if you're able to nab an early table, the food comes out hot and quick. An average dinner for two runs around 40€ and includes 2 glasses of wine, water, and cover charge. We are so stoked to have found this polenta house that we've been here twice within the last 4 weeks. www.santapolenta.it

Sante Palle (Holy Balls). Each piping hot mound of polenta filled with a different cheese: fontina, gorgonzola, taleggio.

The Santa Polenta pizza: tomato sauce, mozzarella, pancetta, taleggio and arugula.

Polenta with meltingly soft and delicious porcini.

Polenta and tenderloin on a hot stone plate (slice and cook to your liking - fun!).

Good day for a hike: 2500 feet, 23 km and 7.5 hours

A hunk of bread, a wedge of aged sheep's cheese, a couple canteens of water and some fruit. I regret not being able to share a more thorough and detailed trail description but this was more for practice and not for the lofty views. Ever since the movie The Way, we both had to know what one 20 kilometer day (12+ miles) would feel like if we were to embark on, at most, the 40-day 800 kilometer Camino de Santiago in Spain. That's a lot of walking. I think I would get real skinny if I missed a meal.

Lecco's mountains are covered in so many up-and-down trails that all you need do is get to any village above the lake. We started at an altitude of 670 meters and walked up another 762 to the top of Monte Tesoro in Valcava. That's a height difference of 2500 feet, 8 kilometers and 2.5 hours at a steady pace with Maddie and Mr B in tow. From there we made a loop trip back down, stopping often to munch on vittles and to take a look around. Altogether a total of 23 kilometers or 14 miles in 7½ hours, and a lot of interesting sights.

We'll try to get up here again after it snows...the view must be something awesome.

With a panoramic viewpoint like that, I'd say this would be prime property if you had the cash to fix it up.

You'll inevitably stumble across a tiny chapel when hiking in these mountains, and they make perfect places to stop for a rest or some peaceful solitude and spiritual enlightenment? I peeked into this one here to see a statue of the Holy Mother and Child.

In english they're known as barn swallows but in Italy we all know them as rondine (rohn-dee-neh). Apparently someone or some people take very kindly to these birds because an entire courtyard is outfitted with birdhouses on the building walls. The sign reads “Respect the rondine and its nest. The rondine really needs a lot of friends.” I didn't see any signs of the barn swallows but it's a common weather expression to say that if these birds are flying low, that means it's going to rain.

If you looked closely in the top pic, an arrow points to the Smurfs. Well smurf or no smurf and who gives a smurf anyway? This inn seems to be the hangout for the Puffi (pooh-fee) as they are known here.

Omigosh it's Papanasi!

What's deep-fried, smothered in heavy cream and jam, dusted with powdered sugar and has who-knows-or-even-cares-how-many-calories? Hands in the air if you don't accurately count calories either, but if you happen to be in Romania, the answer to that question would be papanasi. Constructed with a donut-like round as the main base and a donut hole on top of the delicious mess, papanasi is simply made out of cottage cheese, lemon zest, eggs, sugar, baking soda and flour. The heavy cream and fruit jam is what pushes this romanian dessert into the category of “things to try atleast once in your life” but my hunch is that one will never be enough. A list of useful recipe and youtube links help guide the process of putting these together which is very quick and easy. Not to worry if you can't understand the videos; just watch the steps. Incidentally, I titled this post as such because the pronunciation of papansi (it sounded like pah-pah-nahsh to my ears) had me exclaiming omigoshpapanosh!

Recipe at Travel Moments In Time
Papanasi video as demonstrated by female chef
Papanasi video as demonstrated by home cook (I would love to be a guest at his table)

October 2011 desktop calender: L'uva

Without taking count of all the google "Italy" alerts piling up in my inbox, I already know that la vendemmia is the one to top them all. Warmer than usual weather initiated an earlier harvest time this year, and although we weren't able to participate in the the grape-picking, we look forward to the new wines and chestnut roasts in November. Happy 1st day of October!

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