Blue dragonfly (out of many!) under the roman bridge at St. Vittore Terme (Genga)...was HOT. At least in the opinion of our host in Serra San Querico, the high temps were exceptional, and the first sure sign could be felt as early as 8 in the morning while taking the dog out for a walk. Exposed to the sun's rays, an almost prickly, burning sensation became immediately apparent on bare skin. There wasn't any need to see the mercury in order to realize that it meant bad news for hiking (we tried once and did an about-face after only 30 minutes) and resigned ourselves to the fact that much of Marche would be experienced within the confines of an airconditioned vehicle. This actually worked out in our favor as it enabled us to do a lot of "drive by" touring through each of the five provinces: Pesaro-Urbino, Ancona, Fermo, Macerata, and Ascoli Piceno. All in all it was a great getaway even if the bathroom scale proves that frequent indulgences at the gelaterie and reduced physical activity does NOT do the waistline good.
Panoramic view as seen from the main piazza at SiroloIf I were pressed to describe Marche in a few words, I'd say that it has a quiet, if not gentle sort of grace. From what I read somewhere - it's the "new Tuscany". We found the landscape of this region to be surprisingly varied, from the Adriatic shores to the Sibillini mountains, north and south of this slice of Italy, were endless expanses of hills - "undulating hills" as they are so described - with fields (many were already harvested with the soil turned over) bearing corn, olive trees, and grapes that make up the regional wines. Minutes from home base of Serra San Quirico emerged yet another dramatic feature owed to mother nature - Gola della Rossa e di Frasassi - an impressive gorge which houses the subterranean caves of the Frasassi Grottoes. Medieval villages pop up all over the countryside, one in particular - Pierosara - named after a fated young lass and her betrothed. The people we came across were open and friendly, but I'm sure most of this could be attributed to Maddie who is always one to seek attention from anyone. I haven't had so many buongiornos and buona seras from complete strangers within a week!

The only other thing to mention here of course, is the food. But I must point out that August, especially during the week of Ferragosto, is a period when many businesses close shop for holiday. Often 1 - 2 weeks, or even more. This applies to all of Italy, so it was no surprise that a couple of noteworthy restaurants were chiuso per ferie. It only means that we'll return another time of the year. In any case, even if there were no worthwhile trattorie to speak of on this visit, we had more than our fair share of tasting the local cured meats, cheeses, snacks, and sagra eats. I'm going to venture out in saying that the marchigiana cuisine is not terribly vegetarian-friendly. Meat and cheese in some form or another for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Obviously, seafood and fish on the coast. Not that we ever complained, but I'm sure that our cholesterol levels were on red alert by mid-week. It'll take time to set my system straight on fruit and veggies before attempting to replicate a few of those very delicious and interesting dishes.
Selection of sliced meats and cheese
Hi Rowena,
It's great reading your travelog of Le Marche. Beautiful photos. You said heat? It's been quite the opposite in most of France. Rain & grey skies.. like today! Sorry to hear about the all the good restaurants were closed. It's the same in France.
barbara | Homepage | 08.22.07 - 1:29 pm
The pictures are wonderful. It must have been a lot of fun :-)
piccola | 08.22.07 - 11:06 am
Welcome back! It looks beautiful - that photo of the sea is just gorgeous! How wonderful to have Maddie to break the ice wherever you go - who can resist that happy face? Now, are you off to Sicily soon?
Cathy | Homepage | 08.22.07 - 4:15 am
Aaa, leave it to Maddie to get all the attention! Sounds like a wonderful place (even if you did have to tour a lot on the airconditioned car).
farfallina @ a roam to Rome | Homepage | 08.22.07 - 2:42 am
We have red dragonflies and blue dragonflies here. They usually come out in force when a storm is approaching. I hear you on the prickly heat, ours is prickly with a thick layer of humidity! Happy that you were able to eat lots of gelato.
Kat | Homepage | 08.22.07 - 12:57 am
Happy to see you back :-) The dragonfly and blue ocean photos are beautiful. Thank you for a nice description of the area.
Maryann | Homepage | 08.22.07 - 12:49 am
Welcome back Rowena! I can already feel the heat from Le Marche just by your descriptions...but am glad all the gelato made up for it, hehe. Cheers for another make-you-oh-so-happy picture of Maddie! =)
Kathy | Homepage | 08.21.07 - 11:12 pm