A White Christmas in Trentino

And that is where we fulfilled our wishes for a snowy Christmas this year. Smack in the middle between two large natural parks - the Regional Adamello and National Stelvio - and within proximity to the Tonale Pass which leads into the region of Trentino. Sun, sun, sun every single day; we couldn't have asked for better weather. What all of this comes down to was hiking in the snow, stuffing ourselves with the local cuisine, bringing home 15 pounds of apples(!) which Trentino is so famous for, and the Mercatino di Natale in Trento.

For the past few days we've been catching up with house and yardwork so it's been crazy. Details and photos from the trip are in the making but in the meantime, here's a photo of Maddie the snowbunny queen. The dog could probably stay forever in that winter wonderland.

Fondue Vigneronne

I am completely sold on the fondue style of entertaining because not only is it easy on the host, but also a very convivial way of dining which can last for hours as long as the flame keeps burning. You need only to supply the ingredients and utensils and the guests will take care of the rest. But first, I'm going to deviate from the usual format of subject image with accompanying recipe and simply post instructions to make your own fondue vigneronne at the very end, which really, is where the fun all begins.

Fondue, no doubt, is known the world over on the gourmet scene, but la fondue vigneronne? Unlike its counterpart fondue boeuf bourguignonne which uses hot oil as the cooking medium, fondue vigneronne is a variant, where bite-sized cubes of beef and/or veal are done to perfection in a pot of simmering wine. Various sauces are essential to the meal besides two or three vegetable side dishes (make it simple) and fresh loaves of bread. The most common sauces would be mayonnaise, creamy horseradish, mustard and ketchup as my husband and I had experienced on separate occasions in France, yet for this meal I added a salsa verde and a roquefort cheese sauce. Nobody ended up touching the mayo or ketchup!

The only photos taken were of the various breads before the party began. The first two acting as carbs with dinner and the third as an accompaniment to coffee.

A crusty round of pagnotta...

A loaf called 'Resegone' which takes after the jagged peaks of the mountain range in Lecco that goes by the same name.

Italian fruitcake? Anyone? This is the first time we've had Bisciola and I think next time we'll think twice before getting an entire loaf. Don't get me wrong, it's really good, with lots of chopped dried fruit, figs, walnuts and golden raisins in a loaf that has more of a cake/bread texture - dense but not so dense that you could chuck it as a weapon! The only drawback was the price: 18.36 euros for a two pounder. It was artigianale, and if what the sign said was true, I can presume that this artisan bread was made from a mother dough started in 1930.

Fondue Vigneronne

The following was split between two fondue pots - a 2 quart and a 1 quart. Enough for 8.

Veal loin and/or a tender cut of beef (I used entrecôte steaks) cut into 3/4-inch (2cm) cubes. Count on about 6oz (170g) per person.

1 bottle of inexpensive bordeaux
6 cups plain beef broth, homemade or canned
1 medium onion, stuck with 3-4 whole cloves
1 medium carrot, chopped
1 stalk celery with leaves, chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
1 bay leaf

Combine the wine, beef broth, vegetables and bay leaf in a large stockpot and bring to a boil. Strain into fondue pots and keep on a continuous simmer. Accompany with ramekins of mayonnaise, dijon mustard, ketchup, creamy horseradish, salsa verde and roquefort sauce. Round out the meal with steamed green beans or a mixed salad of leafy greens; french fries or roasted new potatoes ; and fresh bread.

The tradition of San Nicolò

Long ago, the tradition of the festival of San Nicolo (the patron saint of Lecco) went like this. On December 6th children would receive gifts, but aside from the gifts they would also receive a puppet-like figure or pupazzo of San Nicolò. The pupazzo was made from a big red apple with a walnut or mandarin orange attached with a skewer for the face, and on top of it a red hat. Eyes were drawn on the face and a white beard attached. A fairytale told to little ones reveals a story that I find so innocent and beautiful, of which I share with you here along with a proverb-nursery rhyme in italian dialect that ties together the three important days of December 6, 7 and 8.

{San Nicolò met 3 children who were so poor that he presented them with three beautiful red apples. During the night, the three apples turned into gold, and the children became rich.}

San Nicolò ci porta i pomm
Sant’Ambroeus i e fa coeus,
la Madonna i ha pelaa
e i bambin i ha mangià!

St. Nick brings the apples.
St. Ambrogio cooks them.
The Madonna peels the apples.
And the children eat them!

San Nicolò is Dec. 6th, Sant'Ambrogio the 7th, and la Madonna (Immaculate Conception) is the 8th! It really does sound much more fascinating in italian, so here is the email that my husband had sent.

Stavo chiacchierando con un amico, e parlavamo della tradizionale festa di San Nicolo' a Lecco. Mi ha detto che per quella festa si usava dare ai bambini, oltre ai regali, un pupazzo di San Nicolo'. Il pupazzo era fatto da una grossa mela rossa (il corpo), una noce o un mandarino sopra, attaccata con uno stuzzicadenti (la faccia), e sopra un cappello rosso. Sulla noce o sul mandarino si disegnano gli occhi e si attacca la barba bianca.

Ho trovato su Internet la favola che si racconta ai bambini. San Nicolo' incontra tre bambini, talmente poveri che regala loro tre belle mele rosse. Durante la notte, le tre mele si trasformano in oro, e i bambini diventano ricchi.