It's just a very long walk in Val Viola

Now this is a trail for all dispositions, and I'll get to that later. Val Viola offers a long but gentle ascent that leads toward the Swiss border. Situated in the upper reaches of the province of Sondrio, the half pavement/half dirt road running along the length of the valley is popular with people of all ages and fitness levels during holidays. We hiked here about a week and a half ago when it was still peak season, and there were mountain bikers pedaling up the path as well. An alpine rifugio/mountain hut (C) awaits hungry appetites at the very end (you can barely make it out in the image above), but we cut the 8km distance down to a little over 7 as soon as we reached the lake. Alternatively you can also avoid walking the whole 8km and hitch a jeep ride from the starting point for 2€ in one direction. It'll drop you off halfway (B) when the service is available, which might be a good idea for tenderfoots.

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Starting in Arnoga (A) at the sharp bend fronting Hotel Li Arnoga, follow the pavement into the woods. The trail is pretty obvious, cutting through patches of forest, green pastures and quiet habitation en route. Asphalt eventually gives way to a mule path and open blue skies everywhere. 7.2 kilometers/4.5 miles was already enough with the heat and glaring sun, so it was a good thing that we had packed our own lunch. Settling down in front of a grouping of large boulders, we could hear marmots calling out - "whistling" - amongst themselves. The valley is also supposed to be rich with mushrooms during funghi season, but you're allowed to look and not touch. Well we were more than content with not touching anything...especially a tiny vipera snake that we happened upon. Final note: parking spots are available a few hundred meters along into the path but you need to get there early to nab them for a small fee. When those are all taken, an ample parking area about 100 meters further up from Hotel Li Arnoga is open for free. And lastly, for those who don't want to/can't walk but would like to chow down at the rifugio, there is transport service upon request. 40€ (8 seats). Don't forget to bring a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen.

Lombrichelli alla Viterbese

This is the unintended result of a cumulation of efforts to find out what umbrichelli could be when I saw it on a sagra menu. At first I thought it surely must have something to do with uhm.....umbilical cords (the shape, not the cord itself!) because of the similarities between the two words. MotH cleared up that "false friend" misunderstanding then I reasoned that it would be highly unlikely for a pasta to be named after funicolo ombelicale in any way, shape or form. I hope I'm right.

It was to be my Ricettario della cucina regionale italiana (Touring Club Italiano publication) to solve the mystery, where I thereby learned that lombrichelli owes its name to the friend of all gardeners - the lombrico, or earthworm. Now I get it! Strand pasta goes by a whole lot of names in and around Viterbo - lombrichelli, umbrichelli, strigoli, stratte to name a few - and of which pici drew instant recognition. Foodies will know pici, and who doesn't love eating that wonderfully toothy pasta in a rich, delicious sauce of wild boar in Tuscany?

The tricky thing with italian recipes is that they are written with a minimum of fuss so I'm adding some details to make things clearer. I'm going with the old-fashioned way - only flour, salt and water - and the strength and dexterity of nimble fingers. This is handrolled pasta that is a work of love; don't be attempting this if your middle name is impatient.

Lombrichelli for 2 people

1½ cups (200 grams) farina "00" or all-purpose flour
generous pinch of salt
about ½ cup water
Combine the 3 ingredients to form a smooth dough that is not too soft, neither too firm. Depending on the humidity level of the flour you may need to use less or more water. Knead for about 6-8 minutes until smooth and elastic; let rest, covered for 10 minutes.

Pinch off cherry-sized pieces of dough and roll into short logs using the palm of your hand. Proceed to roll and elongate the dough into thick strands, using your palms and eventually fingers to shape the strands to a thickness of about 1/8-inch in diameter. As an example: a piece of dough rolled to the desired thickness yielded a strand that was 27 inches long.

Section into 8 to 12-inch lengths, generously dust with flour and set aside to dry for several hours before cooking. I gathered all of mine in a loose clump as the humidity level is low in my kitchen, but it would be better to keep the strands somewhat separated in humid areas. To cook, bring a large pot of water to a boil, salt lightly and cook pasta for 2 minutes max. Initially I went with 3 minutes and they were slightly overdone. Drain and serve with sauce.

Sauce alla viterbese

This tomato-based sauce has many versions so it's up to you if you want to add pork sausage or onions to give it some oomph. I believe that to make it alla viterbese, you'll have to add a bit of hot pepper and have grated pecorino piccante to sprinkle over the finished dish. I went with the simple version: tomatoes, garlic, hot pepper, salt; simmer over a low flame until the flavors develop deep and fabulous. Our garden tomatoes went gangbusters while we were gone and I am up to my ears in heirlooms. If the lombrichelli-making burned you out real bad, there's always premade sauce from the supermarket. Don't sweat it, who's gonna tell?

Tasi e Tira!

In September of last year I wrote about a wonderful fundraising event that was put on by veteran Alpini of Ronco Briantino. The Alpini, in case you don't know, are the alpine brigade of the Italian Army and while it shouldn't be any surprise that we attended their function to aide Abruzzo's earthquake victims (good food, good wine, great people and I am there!), it did come as a small shock to learn that they had stumbled across my post. Viva the internet! In that post I made it very clear how much I wanted one of their cool Tasi e Tira tshirts. [The phrase basically means to quit talking and pull, a verbal reinforcement to keep going when the going gets tough.] Well imagine my surprise when a recent email invited me to pick one up for myself.

MotH and I met with the Alpini a few nights ago and I cannot say enough on how nice those guys are. We were taken on a tour of their "baita" (home) where they meet, took a peek into their kitchen and dining hall, and both of us received Tasi e Tira tshirts. Today I was going to wear my new tshirt when my twin sister came over to help with making plum preserves, but changed my mind. The last thing I wanted was her asking for the tshirt off of my back.

Okay I was kidding about the twin sister; the image above was 'shopped. I'm just happy, over the tshirt, over the fact that summer vacation has officially begun and MotH can have some down time. Food festivals here we come - Mr B is giving a hint on what's in store next.