Hiking in Val Biandino: the miracle of San Carlo

Introbio (province of Lecco) - "...while passing through the Troggia valley, the saint became thirsty, and like Moses, split a rock with a blow from his walking stick, causing fresh water to miraculously flow through the crevices."

Even if it's the sort of thing that spawns legend, it wasn't like I was dead set on finding the spot where San Carlo performed a miracle with a mere ka-thunk! to stone. Rather instead, it was an opportunity to experience the first part of a trail which promised a pleasant hike even in winter. This initial trek took us from Introbio to the midway point of Ponte dei Ladri (bridge of thieves) which crosses the Troggia river. The bridge is much more recognizable as the last parking area for those wanting to get a headstart on the trail to higher altitude mountain huts which are further along the way (Tavecchia, Bocca di Biandino, and Madonna della Neve). Only authorized vehicles are allowed to continue from then on.

See google maps.

The beginning of the trail is set behind a residential area. To get there, keep an eye out on the left side for the local bar Umberto I as you enter town (on the corner of via Umberto and via Fucinetta just after the bridge). To the right of the bridge will be via Partigiana Mina which then curves left into via all'Acqua and finally via per Biandino. This is not a terribly difficult path but it needs to be said that the smoothstone donkey lane climbs rapidly and steep. Soon after appears a shrine dedicated to St. Uberto (the protector of hunters!), and from there the going gets easier.

Red and white signs with the letters VB, Val Biandino, or the number 40 clearly point the way. When in doubt, follow directions to Fontana San Carlo which in regards to the right image, leads through a chestnut grove before crossing a bridge. After the bridge, a switchback up the mountainside intersects with a paved road. From here on up it's a breeze until San Carlo's fountain.

A few more minutes brings you to the Ponte dei Ladri. I feel as if this entry is only half finished with not having tucked into a bowl of steaming hot polenta at a refuge! But then that would've taken the fun out of packing the pocket knife, bread rolls, a hunk of cheese, a salame bought from the market at the Festa di San Bassiano and a few banana-chocolate energy bars, now wouldn't it? This itinerary is about 3½ hours total (2 up and 1½ down).

My new waterproof Merrell's are kick butt! Come snow, rain, or mud...bring it!

From Rifugio Martina to Monte San Primo (Bellagio)

Monte San Primo. Agile hikers aren't the only ones to climb up here in summer because the tell-tale aroma of ovine and caprine droppings invaded our nostrils long before reaching the top. Our intent was to go up then return on the mainly forested trail (right side of photo) that commences behind Rifugio Martina, but the ascent is so steep (average 14% grade) that I wasn't too keen on going back down through the bug-infested environment again. The top photo was taken looking back at S. Primo as we descended to connect with sentiero 1 and continue on a loop trail to the starting point. For those who may have ended up here for trails near Bellagio, take a look at this site to see what the fuss is all about and tell me that ain't gorgeous (scroll to bottom). Unfortunately, it was a hazy experience for us this past Sunday and thus the wait continues until a clear weekend comes along. In the meantime I've set our hiking goals to explore more of the area that is just ...

Hi-Yo, Silver, away!

Slowly, but surely, Miss Maddie the alpine westie is gaining back her strength and stamina on these brief walks that we take around the mountainside. The hot summer temps are fading away, maybe too fast for my liking, but in the coolness of digits less than 70°F, the dogs handle it much better outdoors. We came across an old hotel over the weekend, its exterior still in good shape even if the property was no longer in operation. Along the outside wall, iron rings were firmly attached for way back in the days when people traveled by horse. An iron boot remover/puller was firmly embedded right next to the entrance. I've never taken riding lessons, but now I'm thinking, wouldn't it be fun to go on a vacation through the italian countryside only on horseback? I believe there are already these types of eco-tourism here, and I've read about one where you travel by donkey instead. The dogs would probably prefer to walk it themselves, as long as the pace was kept to a t...

La Thuile (home of the best little cheese shop in Valle d'Aosta)

Goat cheese coated in a tempting assortment of spicy and nut flavorings I must've looked like a crazed, dangerous woman entering into La Maison du Fromage. With nostrils instinctively twitching, flaring, and breathing - no, inhaling - the bold pungency that exuded from within, it took every ounce of willpower to stick to "the plan". The plan? That's right, a plan to buy only what we could reasonably finish and not burn a hole in MotH's wallet. I had been waiting for months to finally make it to this place...such is our lust for cheese. Run by a mother, daughter and granddaughter team, they entice the cheese gourmet with the best the region has to offer - local prosciutto, sausages, breads... A plethora of pasta and local products beckon seductively from racks and shelves, ensuring that you simply can not leave without making a few purchases to bring home. The dumbstruck gaze on my face with Canon in hand said enough. "Signora, plain or with nut...

Rubber Slippers In Italy

Search This Blog