Hiking in Val Biandino: the miracle of San Carlo

Introbio (province of Lecco) - "...while passing through the Troggia valley, the saint became thirsty, and like Moses, split a rock with a blow from his walking stick, causing fresh water to miraculously flow through the crevices."

Even if it's the sort of thing that spawns legend, it wasn't like I was dead set on finding the spot where San Carlo performed a miracle with a mere ka-thunk! to stone. Rather instead, it was an opportunity to experience the first part of a trail which promised a pleasant hike even in winter. This initial trek took us from Introbio to the midway point of Ponte dei Ladri (bridge of thieves) which crosses the Troggia river. The bridge is much more recognizable as the last parking area for those wanting to get a headstart on the trail to higher altitude mountain huts which are further along the way (Tavecchia, Bocca di Biandino, and Madonna della Neve). Only authorized vehicles are allowed to continue from then on.

See google maps.

The beginning of the trail is set behind a residential area. To get there, keep an eye out on the left side for the local bar Umberto I as you enter town (on the corner of via Umberto and via Fucinetta just after the bridge). To the right of the bridge will be via Partigiana Mina which then curves left into via all'Acqua and finally via per Biandino. This is not a terribly difficult path but it needs to be said that the smoothstone donkey lane climbs rapidly and steep. Soon after appears a shrine dedicated to St. Uberto (the protector of hunters!), and from there the going gets easier.

Red and white signs with the letters VB, Val Biandino, or the number 40 clearly point the way. When in doubt, follow directions to Fontana San Carlo which in regards to the right image, leads through a chestnut grove before crossing a bridge. After the bridge, a switchback up the mountainside intersects with a paved road. From here on up it's a breeze until San Carlo's fountain.

A few more minutes brings you to the Ponte dei Ladri. I feel as if this entry is only half finished with not having tucked into a bowl of steaming hot polenta at a refuge! But then that would've taken the fun out of packing the pocket knife, bread rolls, a hunk of cheese, a salame bought from the market at the Festa di San Bassiano and a few banana-chocolate energy bars, now wouldn't it? This itinerary is about 3½ hours total (2 up and 1½ down).

My new waterproof Merrell's are kick butt! Come snow, rain, or mud...bring it!

A tour of Lake Garda's western shores

If Quantum of Solace had chosen to film elsewhere, I might've never made the effort to visit Lake Garda. Two days and two nights only allowed us to scratch the surface, not nearly enough time to explore the high mountains with the dogs, or check out all of the Slow Food restaurants in this part of the region. Next time it'll have to be 5 days minimun - at least to find the very spot where that photo above was taken! All of the towns along Lake Garda's western shores are very touristic, appealing greatly to german and dutch visitors. We chose to stay in Gargnano mainly because I was able to find a reasonably-priced hotel that allowed small pets, but also for the fact that Benito Mussolini (Italy's last dictator) spent his final days at Villa Feltrinelli which is located on a private stretch of beach in Gargnano. The luxury hotel is an historical building which has been restored with truly impeccable taste (you have to see the website) commanding upwards of 6265+...

Hi-Yo, Silver, away!

Slowly, but surely, Miss Maddie the alpine westie is gaining back her strength and stamina on these brief walks that we take around the mountainside. The hot summer temps are fading away, maybe too fast for my liking, but in the coolness of digits less than 70°F, the dogs handle it much better outdoors. We came across an old hotel over the weekend, its exterior still in good shape even if the property was no longer in operation. Along the outside wall, iron rings were firmly attached for way back in the days when people traveled by horse. An iron boot remover/puller was firmly embedded right next to the entrance. I've never taken riding lessons, but now I'm thinking, wouldn't it be fun to go on a vacation through the italian countryside only on horseback? I believe there are already these types of eco-tourism here, and I've read about one where you travel by donkey instead. The dogs would probably prefer to walk it themselves, as long as the pace was kept to a t...

A Campari moment

So...the lawn is done. The shower (and a double-sized one at that) scrubbed down. The floors mopped. The "kids" bathed, dried, and nails clipped. The monstrous old fennel cut down and ready to cart away. The kumquat fertilized, dinner done (oxtail soup), and the terrace swept for the 10th time because the "kids" think it's perfectly okay to leave the chestnut peels after devouring those that fall in the yard. The best part? Having my lardo d'Arnad photo featured in an italian restaurant and hospitality magazine, Italia A Tavola . I'm pretty stoked, and was sent a pdf copy of which I've snipped a part here.

Rubber Slippers In Italy

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