Skip to main content

From Rifugio Martina to Monte San Primo (Bellagio)


Monte San Primo. Agile hikers aren't the only ones to climb up here in summer because the tell-tale aroma of ovine and caprine droppings invaded our nostrils long before reaching the top. Our intent was to go up then return on the mainly forested trail (right side of photo) that commences behind Rifugio Martina, but the ascent is so steep (average 14% grade) that I wasn't too keen on going back down through the bug-infested environment again. The top photo was taken looking back at S. Primo as we descended to connect with sentiero 1 and continue on a loop trail to the starting point. For those who may have ended up here for trails near Bellagio, take a look at this site to see what the fuss is all about and tell me that ain't gorgeous (scroll to bottom). Unfortunately, it was a hazy experience for us this past Sunday and thus the wait continues until a clear weekend comes along. In the meantime I've set our hiking goals to explore more of the area that is just 30 minutes drive from Bellagio (lightened square in the photo below).

Rifugio Martina to Monte San Primo - nearly 600 meters straight up

It is supposed to take only 60 minutes but whoever calculated that figure must one of the ungulati (hooved ones). We slowly made our way in an hour and 45 minutes in the humidity and I advise sturdy boots/shoes and even hiking poles for this trail. It almost felt like a hike in a tropical forest with all that foliage scratching across my legs, plus you can't see the very peak and just keep trudging along, expecting to get above the treeline any minute. Avoid it if there has been recent rains because it will be muddy and slippery.


View enlarged map (A = Monte San Primo)

Rifugio Martina (english). Open from mid-June to mid-September.
Google map from Bellagio to rifugio parking (B). 20-minute walk to reach the rifugio (C).

All pain and no gain is plain rubbish in my book and we try to end a day of hiking with a reward of gelato. Eupili Cafè (Via Mazzini, 68 in Pusiano) has some of the best gelato that I've ever devoured and the guy behind the counter has always been great to give us little taste samples. Here: fragola (strawberry), pistacchio and fiori di sambuco (elderflower).

Comments

K and S said…
man that first photo brought back some Mt Fuji flashbacks...I agree that rewards should be gelato :)
Rowena said…
And you know as much as I do how the descent would've been on the knees!!! In some parts, the height distance between each step was at least a foot and a half! I had the hiking poles, but there were a lot of small stones along the path and I knew that I'd end up on my butt more than a few times if we had taken the same trail to return. We met some people coming down and they were wearing just sneakers...that's just plain crazy, unless they were born as billy goats in another life.
K and S said…
aw man, coming down on Mt Fuji, we had no trail, just sandy gravel...talk about no can walk for a week because knees and thighs in pain!
Jude said…
Sigh, this is soo awesome! I absolutely love your scenes of Italian life (if I weren't hanging in the UK so much, I'd have been right there in Italy!)
RONW said…
Maddie must have ate the comment that I left here very late last night.
Rowena said…
Jude - you know, I never was that into hiking in the islands, so this has been a complete turnaround for me. A good thing we're surrounded by mountains!

RONW - is THAT what Maddie farted out of her butt just now?
Elizabeth said…
Ooooh, and I will be on Lake Como in one week! Sounds like you can park at the Rifugio which is great.
Jude said…
I'm just catching up on some posts -- that's awesome you've gotten into hiking now, with such gorgeous mountains around you!!
Elizabeth said…
We did make it to Madonna del Ghisallo with a car, and drove a little higher up yet, but not to the Refugio Martina and no hiking. It was too bloody hot!

Popular posts from this blog

Hi-Yo, Silver, away!

Slowly, but surely, Miss Maddie the alpine westie is gaining back her strength and stamina on these brief walks that we take around the mountainside. The hot summer temps are fading away, maybe too fast for my liking, but in the coolness of digits less than 70°F, the dogs handle it much better outdoors. We came across an old hotel over the weekend, its exterior still in good shape even if the property was no longer in operation. Along the outside wall, iron rings were firmly attached for way back in the days when people traveled by horse. An iron boot remover/puller was firmly embedded right next to the entrance. I've never taken riding lessons, but now I'm thinking, wouldn't it be fun to go on a vacation through the italian countryside only on horseback? I believe there are already these types of eco-tourism here, and I've read about one where you travel by donkey instead. The dogs would probably prefer to walk it themselves, as long as the pace was kept to a t...

Welcome to Lake Como (guest blogger)

As the main focus of this site is to promote the beauty of the northern italian lake areas, the following article and images comes from Chiara who manages the blog Italy Lakes.net. Welcome to Lake Como Lake Como is one of largest and the most well-known of northern Italy's lakes. Thanks to its beauty, the diversity of its landscapes and its mild summers and winters, the Como area is a favorite destination for tourists from all over Northern Europe. Among the most famous of Lake Como's localities is undoubtedly Cernobbio. A popular holiday resort at the foot of Mount Bisbino, Cernobbio is also well-known for its numerous elegant and luxurious villas, the most famous of which is Villa d'Este. As well as Villa d'Este, must-visits in the area around Cernobbio include Villa Erba, Villa Pizzo, Villa Fontanelle, and Villa Bernasconi. Then there are the Buco della Volpe – Fox Hole – and Zocca d’Ass caves. Last but not least, there is the Sanctuary of the Blessed Virgin Mary...

Good day for a hike: 2500 feet, 23 km and 7.5 hours

A hunk of bread, a wedge of aged sheep's cheese, a couple canteens of water and some fruit. I regret not being able to share a more thorough and detailed trail description but this was more for practice and not for the lofty views. Ever since the movie The Way , we both had to know what one 20 kilometer day (12+ miles) would feel like if we were to embark on, at most, the 40-day 800 kilometer Camino de Santiago in Spain. That's a lot of walking. I think I would get real skinny if I missed a meal. Lecco's mountains are covered in so many up-and-down trails that all you need do is get to any village above the lake. We started at an altitude of 670 meters and walked up another 762 to the top of Monte Tesoro in Valcava. That's a height difference of 2500 feet, 8 kilometers and 2.5 hours at a steady pace with Maddie and Mr B in tow. From there we made a loop trip back down, stopping often to munch on vittles and to take a look around. Altogether a total of 23 kilom...